Block heater

[2hot6ft2]

Interesting. Wonder why it's a different number from the one they gave me.

The manual says to torque the drain plug to 58 lbs but in the post earlier by willmax11 where he posted this link http://www.handa-accessories.com/tl/...ter%2Bhonda%22 it says to torque the heater to 44lbs so that's what I'm going with.

44lbs should be plenty since it uses a crush washer and the only difference I can see other than it being for an Acura is the part # is 08T44-S5B-100.

I'll be doing mine Sunday if I don't get aroud to it today and I'll post the progress as well.

By replacing the radiator cap "loosely" any air pockets would come out there.

[2hot6ft2]

Whew !!!

Here's the block heater that I got Honda part # 08T44-SJA-200.


Here's the tools used.


Wire cutters (to clip the cable ties when it's all installed)
Sockets 19mm, 24mm (I used a 15/16 6 point since I don't have a metric that big)
Drain pan
short and long socket extensions
Torque wrench (pointless, never got to 44lbs before it rounded off)
Spotlight (what a pain trying to see in there, whatever works for you)
1 Gallon Antifreeze (I used Hondas premix at $12.12 USD, OUCH)
Long pick up tool (comes in handy routing the wire but optional)
Needle nose pliers (for removing clip)
Breaker bar and breaker socket tool (bar not in pic sorry)
There are a couple socket adapters in the pic but if that's just because I didn't have the right tools available so I had to adapt to fit.
A gallon or 2 of tap water or a hose to wash off any spilled antifreeze.

Ok, I attacked this project from the top it may be easier from the bottom. Started off removing the clip holding the hose that was in the way. It's right next to the oil dipstick, that's what the needle nose pliers were for.


NOTE: Don't bother removing the dipstick retainer bolt it wont help!!!

Next I managed to get the 19mm socket onto the drain plug with the 6" extension and remove the plug I used a breaker bar and it broke loose pretty easy. I don't think it was installed to 58lbs torque as per manual specs.


Now comes the FUN part. I found it easiest to use my bare hand to get the heater started. Which isn't saying much! This is looking down my arm at where I managed to get my hand in there with the heater and finally got it started.


Once I got it started and screwed it in as much as I could with a 15/16 socket (same as 24mm) I switched to a torque wrench. You most definately want to use a 6 point socket.

Be VERY CAREFUL NOT TO ROUND IT OFF!!! It rounded off on me and caused the plug in part to become deformed making it VERY hard to plug it in.
(Too late to get a pic of that side of the heater perhaps kps will post a pic of the plug in side of the heater before doing his install)


Once you have it installed it's just a matter of running the wires and securing them, refilling the antifreeze and doing a clean up.

Here's how I routed mine. You can see the cable ties securing the wires to other things. Starting from the heater.


This is where the pick up tool came in handy to run it behind the hood latch.


Right side of car hood latch on right, then left side with latch on left. Basically just securing it to the cable and wires by the hood latch to hold it when I ran it behind the latch. Also secured the slack there too.


Then I ran it down and out the lower radiator grill I made to the outside. I also secured the plug cap at the same place that's why there are 2 cable ties. Hmm just noticed the peeling paint in the lower right. Have to look at that tomorrow.


Finally where it is on the outside. 2 views.


Final notes:
I didn't bother to drain the radiator I just went ahead and removed the drain plug where the heater was going and it only took about 1/2 gallon to refill the cooling system.

Now I'm ready for the Winter.

[kps]

Interesting. Wonder why it's a different number from the one they gave me.

Mine has a CSA logo stamped on it; yours probably has a UL logo instead. Also, I didn't get a nice little bag for my cable ties. I wuz robbed

(Too late to get a pic of that side of the heater perhaps kps will post a pic of the plug in side of the heater before doing his install)

[2hot6ft2]

Originally Posted by kps

Mine has a CSA logo stamped on it; yours probably has a UL logo instead. Also, I didn't get a nice little bag for my cable ties. I wuz robbed

Thanks for posting the pic of the plug end of the heater. That makes it easy to see where it bends.

You didn't get any cable ties with the clip built in for securing it to small holes like factory wiring.

And the UL/CSA seal is probibly why the #'s are different since other than that they look identical.

Thanks claymore

[kps]

Originally Posted by 2hot6ft2

Next I managed to get the 19mm socket onto the drain plug with the 6" extension and remove the plug I used a breaker bar and it broke loose pretty easy. I don't think it was installed to 58lbs torque as per manual specs.

Mine... is.

Tomorrow I'll get a 1/2" one and try to finish the job.

[2hot6ft2]

Ouch, looks like yours was in a LOT tighter than mine. I know that's frustrating. I haven't had one break like that in about 20 years. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

[kps]

Well, it's in.

I drained the radiator and re-used the coolant; I lost surprisingly little, considering how much seemed to go everywhere when I removed the drain bolt (tip: don't be underneath when you remove it), ending up with the reserve level half way between MIN and MAX.

Originally Posted by 2hot6ft2

Now comes the FUN part. I found it easiest to use my bare hand to get the heater started. Which isn't saying much!

I found a fairly easy way:

The painter's tape stuck just enough to keep the heater falling out of the socket while I guided it into place holding the extension bar.

Since I had the bumper off, I chose a different cable route than most people would: (1) straight forward to the AC hose, then over below the windshield fluid filler, (2) forward there, and back behind the metal bumper, and (3) with the slack run to the middle of the bumper and back.


I did one other thing most people won't; I'm lazy, and I don't want to have to fiddle with the plug cap every morning. At the passenger end of the radiator opening there's a black flat area, corresponding to the opening on the driver's side that leads toward the air intake. I cut a hole and mounted an IEC-type power connector inside the bumper, connected via an extension-cord socket so the bumper can still be removed easily. On the outside I glued on (half) a spring-loaded exterior outlet cover.

[2hot6ft2]

Very nice. I like that idea, may just have to steal that idea or some variation of it. My only concern would be the connectors that you used to connect the exterior outlet.

My heater had 2200 watts stamped into it and those connectors may not handle it if they're aluminum. But I may be wrong about that and they may do fine.

I can see that I'm going to have to pull my bumper and make a few changes now. You're making mine look bad.

I want mine to plug in on the drivers side but can't use that particular spot on the drivers side since it's not the same (it has ducting for the intake).

The reason I want mine on the drivers side is that I park the car in a carport and with it on the drivers side I would have to step over the cord when I go to get in the car.

I think of it as a little reminder to unplug it so I don't drive off with it still pluged in.


Anyway, great job.

[kps]

Originally Posted by 2hot6ft2

My heater had 2200 watts stamped into it

Really!? I'd swear mine said 400W (I remember being a bit surprised it wasn't twice that). 2200W would be 18A and a lot of household circuits have 15A fuses or breakers. Are you sure you're not remembering a mark on the cable or plug?

I think I'll go measure it now.

[2hot6ft2]

I thought it was really high. I can't even find a 115 volt timer or cord that rates that high. Perhaps I was having double vision when I saw it. Lately I've been having more and more trouble focusing on things that are close up.

I can still read fine print from far off but in the last year or so things get blurry and I get double vision when looking at things 18" or less away. It's really irritating since I've always had good eyesight.

400 watts sounds a lot more realistic. Maybe mine was 220 watts and that's why they're differnet numbers as well as the UL/CSA.

[kps]

I forgot I don't have a meter that will measure AC current that high. I won't go into detail about what I did instead (or else the safety nazis will come after me) but mine does draw somewhere around 3A. The socket I used is rated 10A so it should be OK.

[2hot6ft2]

Good, glad to hear that. I was getting a little concerned if it was really 2200 watts. Since mine had someones information for a 1989 prelude on it when I picked it up the 220 watts makes a lot more sense since it would most likely be an older model.

Been trying to think of where I could mount an exterior outlet like you did and I think where you did it may be about the only place to do it. I'll just have to pull the cord a few more feet to plug it in.

I'll have to see what I can find that will work to do it since I may not find the exact items you used.


And I kept getting it at an angle when I tried putting it in with the socket and short extension that's why it was easier for me to do it by hand so I could get a better feel of how it was lining up since I couldn't see it very well anyway.

[kps]

Originally Posted by 2hot6ft2

Been trying to think of where I could mount an exterior outlet like you did and I think where you did it may be about the only place to do it. I'll just have to pull the cord a few more feet to plug it in.

I suppose you could block off a couple inches of the grille for it. Or mount it on the bottom of the car; then it would be a little harder to plug in, but completely invisible.

I'll have to see what I can find that will work to do it since I may not find the exact items you used.

I was originally planning to use a 3-way tap (with two sockets sealed up) but couldn't figure out a way to mount it, since the cap I used isn't deep enough for plug prongs. I was also intending to use something better than a home outlet cover cut in half, thinking there must be some kind of connection doors for trailers or RVs, but couldn't find anything in the stores here.

And I kept getting it at an angle when I tried putting it in with the socket and short extension that's why it was easier for me to do it by hand so I could get a better feel of how it was lining up since I couldn't see it very well anyway.

I had that problem (as well as losing the washer a couple of times) but since I hadn't removed the EGR hose I couldn't get my hand in at all.

[2hot6ft2]

Originally Posted by kps

I suppose you could block off a couple inches of the grille for it. Or mount it on the bottom of the car; then it would be a little harder to plug in, but completely invisible.

I may see if I can mount it in the top part of the opening of the lower grill facing down then I would have to feel around for it but it wouldn't be seen. I'll look around for a good spot tomorrow at work.

Originally Posted by kps

I was originally planning to use a 3-way tap (with two sockets sealed up) but couldn't figure out a way to mount it, since the cap I used isn't deep enough for plug prongs. I was also intending to use something better than a home outlet cover cut in half, thinking there must be some kind of connection doors for trailers or RVs, but couldn't find anything in the stores here.

I think the way you did it turned out great. Seems I remember seeing a single outlet with cover before and I think it was in an RV (motorhome). That was about 15 years ago.

I'll try to make it by a RV dealership sometime and see what they have or call one and ask.

Originally Posted by kps

I had that problem (as well as losing the washer a couple of times) but since I hadn't removed the EGR hose I couldn't get my hand in at all.

I didn't drop the washer but I did let the drain plug drop then I had to start tapping the plastic at the bottom to make it bounce out since I couldn't see where it was but could here it bounce when I tapped on the plastic.

[2hot6ft2]

I really liked how kps did his install. Hope he wont mind my editing his quote to get to the point of this post since this is where we went different ways.

Originally Posted by kps

I did one other thing most people won't; I'm lazy, and I don't want to have to fiddle with the plug cap every morning. At the passenger end of the radiator opening there's a black flat area, corresponding to the opening on the driver's side that leads toward the air intake. I cut a hole and mounted an IEC-type power connector inside the bumper, connected via an extension-cord socket so the bumper can still be removed easily. On the outside I glued on (half) a spring-loaded exterior outlet cover.

While I was thinking of what type of AC inlet to use I considered the inlets used on semis for their block heaters and I'm sure that I could have found one that would fit there but once I opened the one on the truck I drive at work and a pile of rust fell out I kept looking for a better solution.

Finally I found the "Marinco Charger Inlet" which is used for boats. I thought "Perfect" and after a lot of searching found it to be cheapest at here http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...=SearchResults $17.96 after S&H which was even cheaper than I could find it on eBay.


Once it arrived I found that it was too big to fit there. So I looked for another spot to mount it. But it's black and my car is white.

The maintinance manager at work has a deisel pickup and wanted to install a block heater inlet on it so I sold it to him and found me a white one here http://www.rivermarinesupply.com/xca...roductid=11660. The white ones run about $4 more so it was $21.88 USD after S&H.


These inlets are also for use on RVs. Since they are specifically designed for outdoor use they have a watertight boot in the back and the cap is also watertight. They also have a small drain hole where the plug plugs in so they need to be installed at a slight angle and with the ground prong up at the top.

I picked 2 places where I could live with one being installed. One on the front bumper and one on the rear bumper. The green dots show the locations. I wanted it to be on the drivers side.


I would have preferred the rear bumper but considering that I would have to run and secure a cord to put it there I went with the front bumper instead. I borrowed a 1 7/8" hole saw and once the drill bit was thru I put the drill in reverse to cut thru the bumper (less chance of damage that way considering my clear bra).

I cut an old extension cord that was already damaged so I could use the female end and wired it to the inlet using a little dielectric grease on the ends of the wires to help continuity and to help prevent corrosion.

I couldn't find my aquarium silicone so I used my hot glue gun to seal the boot to the cord and to glue the plugs together to keep them together and to help keep moisture out of the connection.


I also put a little hot glue around the hole just before pushing it in and securing it with the lock nut that holds it in place. I like how it turned out.



The white inlet color is a pretty close match to the cars paint so it blends in good and doesn't look out of place like the black inlet would have.

The timer I'm using is heavy duty and can be set in 15 minute increments unlike the more common ones that have a 30 minute minimum between comming on and going off. Sorry about the blurry pic.

I prefer this so I can have it come on for 15, then off 15, then on 15 more and going off just before time to leave. The way I see it this gives it time to spread the heat thru out the engine more gradually. This timer also has a switch so it can be turned on manually at anytime if it's not already on.

The cord that I'm using has the ends that light up when the power is on which will help to keep me from unplugging it while it has power.

It wasn't necessary to remove the bumper to install it in the location I used but I took it off to do a cleanup on the lower radiator protection mod that I did a while back.

I didn't put it in the center of the bumper like where the tow plug cap is due to the way the bumper is designed.

That's it. I'm sure some of you will think it's a stupid place to put it but go out and try to find a place that would work better considering it's size and the space behind that's required for it along with the angle it should be at to drain any water from inside the inlet via the drain hole.

It's 2.5" wide exposed end after install. With about 2" deep recess that goes in the 1 7/8" wide hole + wire coming out the boot.

[bapappas]

This is an impressive guide to installation. Now that the coldest weather is behind us, how much did using the heater add to your electric bill each month? How long did you plug it in each time?

THanks

[kps]

Originally Posted by bapappas

Now that the coldest weather is behind us, how much did using the heater add to your electric bill each month? How long did you plug it in each time?

I had mine on (using a timer) for around one or two hours each time, and pay around 9¢/kWh, so, something like 3¢ to 7¢ per day depending on weather, or around $5 for the season.

[2hot6ft2]

Originally Posted by bapappas

This is an impressive guide to installation. Now that the coldest weather is behind us, how much did using the heater add to your electric bill each month? How long did you plug it in each time?

THanks

It all depended on the temperature as to how long I had my timer set for.
Around 40 degrees 15-30 minutes.
Around 30 degrees 45-60 minutes.
Around 20 degrees 60-90 minutes.
90 minutes for anything below that seemed to work fine.
It depended a little on if it was windy or not as to how I set it (more wind = more time for wind chill) depending on the direction of the wind.

Tonight it's supposed to get cold again so I'll plug it in and set it for 45 minutes low tonight of 36 degrees and 10 to 20 mph winds from the NNE. Since my carport is only open to the South the wind chill wont be that much of a factor.

When I start it about 5:15am it will read about 85 degrees F water temp. by the scanguage2.

It seems to heat it up to just 85 degrees so having it on too long isn't a problem.

As for how much it cost to run I'm sure it's not much. I didn't see any noticable increase in my electric bill. Like kps said I'm sure it wasn't more than $5 to run for the Winter. My bill stays at about $60 a month. Easily saved in fuel used for warming it up to 85 degrees plus the comfort of a shorter warm up for heat.

Hope that helps.
And thanks for the thumbs up on the write ups.

[cndfit]

Probably several block heaters will fit, but
Bernardi lists the part # as 08T44-SJA-200

Honda's pdf installation instructions are available at
Honda Engine Block Heater (Pilot, Fit, Ridgeline) - Bernardi Parts
(torque is 44 lb-ft)

Considering that 2hot6ft2 warned that the block heater is so easy to round off, periodic replacement of the coolant might be a little painful.

[2hot6ft2]

Originally Posted by cndfit

Probably several block heaters will fit, but
Bernardi lists the part # as 08T44-SJA-200

Honda's pdf installation instructions are available at
Honda Engine Block Heater (Pilot, Fit, Ridgeline) - Bernardi Parts
(torque is 44 lb-ft)

Considering that 2hot6ft2 warned that the block heater is so easy to round off, periodic replacement of the coolant might be a little painful.

I don't know why you would say that. Changing the coolant would NOT require the removal of the block heater. Once it's installed that's where it stays for the life of the car unless there's some other reason you would want or need to remove it (like in the unlikely event that it went bad).

Just remember it can be bent when installing it and make sure you don't bend it and all will be fine. I love having it and I get a lot of use out of it in the cold Months like now. Just above freezing tonight.