Block heater
#41
01-12-2008, 06:52 AM
I don't know why you would say that. Changing the coolant would NOT require the removal of the block heater. Once it's installed that's where it stays for the life of the car unless there's some other reason you would want or need to remove it (like in the unlikely event that it went bad).
Just remember it can be bent when installing it and make sure you don't bend it and all will be fine. I love having it and I get a lot of use out of it in the cold Months like now. Just above freezing tonight.
Just remember it can be bent when installing it and make sure you don't bend it and all will be fine. I love having it and I get a lot of use out of it in the cold Months like now. Just above freezing tonight.
For instructions on Coolant Replacement, page 10-6 of the 2007 Fit Service Manual says to loosen the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator (presumably to drain the radiator) and then it says to "remove the drain bolt from the front side of the engine block" (presumably to drain the coolant from the engine block???).
So I just assumed first coolant is drained from the radiator and then coolant is drained from the engine block.
Didn't the block heater replace the drain bolt at the front side of the engine block? Can you replace the coolant just by using the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator and forget about the drain plug at the front of the engine block? I hope so!
Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks.
#42
01-12-2008, 09:33 AM
That's what's puzzling me. I never changed the coolant myself - so I sure don't know what I'm doing. That's what brought me to this thread. Our Fit came with a block heater (Canada) and I didn't know how to change the coolant.
For instructions on Coolant Replacement, page 10-6 of the 2007 Fit Service Manual says to loosen the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator (presumably to drain the radiator) and then it says to "remove the drain bolt from the front side of the engine block" (presumably to drain the coolant from the engine block???).
So I just assumed first coolant is drained from the radiator and then coolant is drained from the engine block.
Didn't the block heater replace the drain bolt at the front side of the engine block? Can you replace the coolant just by using the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator and forget about the drain plug at the front of the engine block? I hope so!
Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks.
For instructions on Coolant Replacement, page 10-6 of the 2007 Fit Service Manual says to loosen the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator (presumably to drain the radiator) and then it says to "remove the drain bolt from the front side of the engine block" (presumably to drain the coolant from the engine block???).
So I just assumed first coolant is drained from the radiator and then coolant is drained from the engine block.
Didn't the block heater replace the drain bolt at the front side of the engine block? Can you replace the coolant just by using the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator and forget about the drain plug at the front of the engine block? I hope so!
Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks.
You make a very good point. I didn't even consider ever having to take it back out to change the coolant. Considering how little coolant came out when the drain plug was removed I don't see how that would be much help in draining and flushing the system anyway.
When it comes time to do the flush and refill I'll either get one of the Prestone aftermarket coolant flush kits that go in the heater hose or just do it the old fashion way draining and refilling the radiator a few times with water with the car running until it's just clear water then letting the car cool down, draining the radiator and adding straight anti freeze (not pre-mixed) to the empty radiator to make the right mix.
Say the coolant capacity is 2 gallons and I wanted a 50/50 mix I would simply add 1 gallon of straight anti freeze (not pre-mixed) and then top it off with water making it a 50/50 mix.
I don't have the manual handy to check the actual capacity but that's the basic principal.
Removing and reinstalling the block heater would not be a fun job at all. But if I was going to do it I would definitely be very careful to "try" and not round it off or deform it. Perhaps if it was up on a lift it may be a little easier to get to but it bent pretty easy, I wasn't applying a lot of torque when it slipped.
Hope that helps address your concerns and answers your question.
Final note: If you've never changed a cars anti freeze before make sure you use a good anti freeze don't just grab the cheap stuff. Make sure it's good for aluminum engines I suggest the yellow as opposed to the green stuff. Honda's is blue but it is also pre-mixed and about $10 US a gallon.
Last edited by 2hot6ft2; 01-12-2008 at 09:40 AM. Reason: Final Note
#43
01-12-2008, 12:25 PM
Yes, you're right.
You make a very good point. I didn't even consider ever having to take it back out to change the coolant. Considering how little coolant came out when the drain plug was removed I don't see how that would be much help in draining and flushing the system anyway.
When it comes time to do the flush and refill I'll either get one of the Prestone aftermarket coolant flush kits that go in the heater hose or just do it the old fashion way draining and refilling the radiator a few times with water with the car running until it's just clear water then letting the car cool down, draining the radiator and adding straight anti freeze (not pre-mixed) to the empty radiator to make the right mix.
Say the coolant capacity is 2 gallons and I wanted a 50/50 mix I would simply add 1 gallon of straight anti freeze (not pre-mixed) and then top it off with water making it a 50/50 mix.
I don't have the manual handy to check the actual capacity but that's the basic principal.
Removing and reinstalling the block heater would not be a fun job at all. But if I was going to do it I would definitely be very careful to "try" and not round it off or deform it. Perhaps if it was up on a lift it may be a little easier to get to but it bent pretty easy, I wasn't applying a lot of torque when it slipped.
Hope that helps address your concerns and answers your question.
Final note: If you've never changed a cars anti freeze before make sure you use a good anti freeze don't just grab the cheap stuff. Make sure it's good for aluminum engines I suggest the yellow as opposed to the green stuff. Honda's is blue but it is also pre-mixed and about $10 US a gallon.
You make a very good point. I didn't even consider ever having to take it back out to change the coolant. Considering how little coolant came out when the drain plug was removed I don't see how that would be much help in draining and flushing the system anyway.
When it comes time to do the flush and refill I'll either get one of the Prestone aftermarket coolant flush kits that go in the heater hose or just do it the old fashion way draining and refilling the radiator a few times with water with the car running until it's just clear water then letting the car cool down, draining the radiator and adding straight anti freeze (not pre-mixed) to the empty radiator to make the right mix.
Say the coolant capacity is 2 gallons and I wanted a 50/50 mix I would simply add 1 gallon of straight anti freeze (not pre-mixed) and then top it off with water making it a 50/50 mix.
I don't have the manual handy to check the actual capacity but that's the basic principal.
Removing and reinstalling the block heater would not be a fun job at all. But if I was going to do it I would definitely be very careful to "try" and not round it off or deform it. Perhaps if it was up on a lift it may be a little easier to get to but it bent pretty easy, I wasn't applying a lot of torque when it slipped.
Hope that helps address your concerns and answers your question.
Final note: If you've never changed a cars anti freeze before make sure you use a good anti freeze don't just grab the cheap stuff. Make sure it's good for aluminum engines I suggest the yellow as opposed to the green stuff. Honda's is blue but it is also pre-mixed and about $10 US a gallon.
(The service manual strongly recommends premixed "Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2" only - for whatever that is worth. So maybe I shouldn't use the bottle of old Honda antifreeze that I had from years ago.)
I am going to leave the block heater alone. It would be just my luck to deform it so that I could neither remove it nor plug the cord back on. I'm definitely going to follow your advice instead. Thanks.
#45
01-31-2008, 12:46 PM
It depended a little on if it was windy or not as to how I set it (more wind = more time for wind chill) depending on the direction of the wind.
Tonight it's supposed to get cold again so I'll plug it in and set it for 45 minutes low tonight of 36 degrees and 10 to 20 mph winds from the NNE. Since my carport is only open to the South the wind chill wont be that much of a factor.
Tonight it's supposed to get cold again so I'll plug it in and set it for 45 minutes low tonight of 36 degrees and 10 to 20 mph winds from the NNE. Since my carport is only open to the South the wind chill wont be that much of a factor.
. It's interesting that you did not see an increase in your electric costs - really looks like this is a low-wattage device. Old-school version of this is to put a 100W shop light under the vehicle at night. If I didn't have on-street parking I'd definitely consider adding a block heater.
#46
01-31-2008, 05:54 PM
FWIW - vehicles don't care about wind chill, just us humans . It's interesting that you did not see an increase in your electric costs - really looks like this is a low-wattage device. Old-school version of this is to put a 100W shop light under the vehicle at night. If I didn't have on-street parking I'd definitely consider adding a block heater.
. It's interesting that you did not see an increase in your electric costs - really looks like this is a low-wattage device. Old-school version of this is to put a 100W shop light under the vehicle at night. If I didn't have on-street parking I'd definitely consider adding a block heater.
Cold wind blowing thru the radiator cools it down. That's why it has a radiator in the first place. Yet if it's calm and the air stays stationary "at least for the most part" then you're not blowing the warmth out of the radiator that you just put there by heating the coolant that is in it. So if the wind is cooling it down while you're heating it, it will take longer to heat a given amount of liquid to a set temp.
It's not rocket science, at least its not supposed to be.
I'm sure there's some increase in the electric bill when using it but like I said my bill is still about $60 a month so it's a very small increase. Not even noticeable, at least not to me.
Last edited by 2hot6ft2; 01-31-2008 at 05:57 PM. Reason: add coment
#47
12-08-2008, 01:06 PM
Bringin it back from the dead. I am thinking of doing this. I just found it shipped from Bernardie for $56.87. When I found the Pdf I thought of not draining the coolant since it looked like a PITA for running the wires. Good to know that it has been done with no problems. Good pictures and write-up. I like the plug cover adapters you guys used, however I have a grill block that I use which will cover/hide the plug. This never crossed my mind, until I decided to be more fuel effiecent.
#48
09-06-2009, 03:39 PM
A pdf file of excerllent installation instructions for factory block heater with lots of good illustrations and helpful hints.
http://www.bernardiparts.com/Images/...ock_heater.pdf
http://www.bernardiparts.com/Images/...ock_heater.pdf
#49
10-31-2010, 01:18 PM
Block Heater Picture (2007 Honda Fit)
I recently purchased a block heater for my 2007 Honda Fit.
Part # 08T44-SJA-400
400 Watts
115 Volts
It cost $113.39 (Canadian), purchased from a Honda Dealer in Grand Prairie, Alberta, Canada. I haven't installed it yet so I can't comment on how easy/difficult it is.
I tried posting a picture of it but couldn't figure out how to get the picture to insert in to the body of this message post!
Part # 08T44-SJA-400
400 Watts
115 Volts
It cost $113.39 (Canadian), purchased from a Honda Dealer in Grand Prairie, Alberta, Canada. I haven't installed it yet so I can't comment on how easy/difficult it is.
I tried posting a picture of it but couldn't figure out how to get the picture to insert in to the body of this message post!
#50
08-05-2011, 09:50 AM
hey kps, thanks for the how-to guide. i'm not much of a mechanic, but i got my block heater installed yesterday. i used a 1/2 inch socket wrench with a 5" extender to get the 19mm bolt off, and i had to use a 2" (or something like that) extender to get the 24mm heater installed. the shorter extender was necssary because the heater itself is a couple inches long, so the longer extender wouldnt' fit.
be careful when removing the 19mm bolt! when it broke loose the long breaker bar i was using slammed into my mouth, and i ended up with blood all over and 6 stitches in my lip.
after i got back from getting stitches, i was able to start the heater thread using my hand. i didn't think my hand could get in there.
be careful when removing the 19mm bolt! when it broke loose the long breaker bar i was using slammed into my mouth, and i ended up with blood all over and 6 stitches in my lip.
after i got back from getting stitches, i was able to start the heater thread using my hand. i didn't think my hand could get in there.
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