those borg warner turbos are great.
full race is using them in their kit (soon to be released) for the r18 civic.

 

The one pictured was actually a Wiseco piston, though cryo-treating/coating a OE piston would probably work really well.




The crank was only a couple hundred bucks because everything was sent in a group. On it's own I don't imagine it would be much worse than that. The shipping and the protective container it was sent in was pretty steep.

I post this stuff here as a combination blog, build thread and tech article. Feel free to contribute or if you just want to chat or have any questions drop in!

How is your project going?

 

Yes they are! Holset's HX series are spectacular as well.

My "old" journal bearing BorgWarner Billet S259ETT spools nearly as fast as an MHI 18G and flows 50% more air!

Full Race is where I am picking up my TR&D exhaust btw..

 

Then there are neat little tricks like this EFI Crank Trigger from Kiggly Racing for the 4G63s:



Something like this could benefit a few members on this site if they have really deep pockets and spend alot of time at the track:




A company in Canada, Magnus Motorsports has created this last little gem, again for the 4G63's.

It is a Dry sump system for extreme race applications. Read: dragsters looking for low 9's @160mph+ or autocross/road race guys with a healthy budget. Because this unit runs a little north of $5k. You can even run a mechanical fuel pump off the other cam gear because the system is so compact.

 

A couple items that I have in mind for the L15 if I can find the room for it.. I am looking find some sort of billet main caps aline honed with studs:


or a main cap girdle like this:



These things are already very common aftermarket items on ZETEC engines and 4G63's like those found in DSMs.

Now I haven't heard back from him since SEMA began but I have been asking one of the guys at Bisimoto if they would (among other things) consider coming up with something like this for us:


For instance..

Also, not that 98% of us will ever need it I'd like to see more transmission components available for the GD/GEs, I know we have different 3rd, 4th, 5th and Final drives available.. but what about double synchro kits for any/all forward gears? Or because we already get bent over for any sort of clutch, how about a twindisc which again is already surprisingly common on DSMs/Evos:

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

In addition to piston/bearing/exhaust coatings I am contemplating have Carlos at Tirado Custom Coatings do this to the L15:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

And for another margin of safety.. if they don't already exist in our engines, I am planning on having oil squirters drilled and tapped into the block:




Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

Building boost with a 2 step launch system.. Turn your sound off before playing, and gradually raise it if you want to listen, this is really damn loud as anyone who has seen/used a 2 Step or Anti-Lag system can tell you.

He bounces it off the two step a couple times (when all those flames start shooting out the fender- exit exhaust and the camera starts flippin out) and the last 10sec of unholy fury is just his idle :

YouTube - racerx55y's Channel

 

With the L15 being used in a SCCA open wheel racing kit it is sure to become like the old air cooled VWs used in Formula V that a Formula Super V class was to develop from... Since early on I have compared the Fit to the old Beetle as being a fun to drive economical car and a lot of older guys have related to it the same way.. There was and I think still is a cottage industry of performance parts manufacturers for the air cooled VW engines and I do believe from what I have seen posted in such a very short time from DSM and the new stuff from Bisimoto that the Fit and the L15A is destined to have the same type of insane cult type following.... The scary thing about it is the amount of money that can be spent and the amount of cars that will be stolen.... There were 12 second street driven VWs in the early 1970s... If like other engines that become darlings of the after market performance part manufacturers the L15A engine may in time be available in performance parts catalogs sold in varying degrees of build.

 

Coming along slowly but surely, always a bit tricky trying to do it without affecting your cash flow too much.

My brakes started looking like this recently


So I went and bought this




Always have other mods that take precedent over the parts I need to finish off the turbo build

 

Bendix is a nice reputable name, what type of compound? OE replacement or performance street?

Those slotted discs should really help resist fade, which is handy when you have extra power to reel in after a good pull.

Have you considered a nicer brake fluid to go with? Like DOT 4 or equivalent? This will help with consistency if you forsee having to make more than a couple hard stops in a row. The company Motul provides a few options!

 

Performance street pads, anything OEM is a waste of time and money when it comes to the brakes IMO.
Was actually looking at Motul RBF600 brake fluid, I think stainless braided brake lines might be overkill though?

What supporting mods are you looking at doing btw? and by that I mean excluding drivetrain mods.

 

I used Motul DOT4 for the brakes on a Harley 20 years ago.. I tend to be easy on brakes and clutches so for me it was like any other fluid but it is said to be good in high heat situations... I remember reading that it isn't allowed for use in certain SCCA competition cars due to its ability to absorb water that turns to steam during hard braking... In those cars they use DOT 3 and it must be changed between one event and the next to insure the quality of the fluid and to prevent water accumulation...I know that motorcycle racers used Motul brake fluid but I don't know if they were required to change fluid as often as SCCA requires.

 

This is precisely what I am hoping. The Asian market seems to be flooded with components like that, and as you pointed out with the advent of the L-series being used by sanctioning bodies like the SCCA, it will be much like the DSM/Evo world which is still constantly developing or adapting technologies or existing products to work on a level never anticipated nearly 22 years later.

The little iron block 4G63 came from the factory in 1989 SAE rated at the Flywheel for 195hp/205lb-ft, today on the ECMTuning forums alone there are a few sub 10sec daily drivers with the bulk of the ~2000 or so people who contribute there making more than 350-400 at the wheels and running between low 10sec and high 12s.

This is not counting people using Ostrich/HALTech/AEM/MegaSquirt or other forms of engine management.

There are more than a handful of people pushing 500awhp on a stock 20 year old 100,000+ mile engines. Thats more than 600HP at the flywheel! Or 300HP/liter on a stock engine.

I am not saying the L15 can necessarily repeat this but I think if people reject the attitude around here about trying new things or going outside whats trendy we can find some real innovation.

No break throughs are made without trial and error.

I personally would like to push 350whp through an L15, it may take a long time, it may require some internals, but I don't personally believe it would be any more expensive or difficult than a swap for a larger motor.

It would also let me retain much of the great balance the car currently has.

There is at least one low 13 second fit on the Forum with a supercharged K20. As he and others that understand ETs, 60' and Trap Speed already know, that is a 12 second car with a driver mod..

I would like to have a mid-high 13 second +105mph L15.

That is walking away from everything stock on the road with the exception of the real heavy hitters like Porsche GT2's, BMW M5's, 7L or Boosted Corvettes when you have 350whp in a ~2400lb car on nice tires coupled with a good driver.

But in the end you have a hatchback that only cost ~17k + ~$6K that gets 30mpg out of boost.

Its like our hatch version of the Aussie's little beauty, the $30,000 6.0L VXR8: simple, affordable, practical and fast as hell.

 

You will like SS brake lines to replace your OE softlines. More solid brake pedal feel and linear break input. Just like replacing clutch softlines in other cars. And they are much tougher and less likely to wear out. They will also sustain more heat for longer.

I am looking at trying to do it is cost effective as possible...

External fuel pump with SS lines for feed/return, Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator like I use on other boosted cars, at least 450cc/min injectors, an AEM FIC, AEM UEGO, MAP, IAT and EGT, big FMIC and a Meth kit.

As far as brakes, this is what I have in mind:

 

This is true, but I have never run into this issue running DOT4 in street cars that were properly flushed and bled. I have it in my Laser currently.

There are DOT3 options from Motul that are also very good.

SCCA will demand alot more from our cars than most people will be able to put them through on the street without seriously endangering others unless they live out in the country somewhere and drive like complete lunatics.

 

Stumbled across these tonight:



Which I thought looked really nice, Brakeman Brake kit.

While taking a break from this:




Have a couple heads lying around and we always port/blend/polish/knife-edge etc. but with this one I am trying to see if there is a measurable gain to be had with knife edging the port dividers to clean up the casting flaws like this:



The intake port above has been Port/Polished with new valve guides, new valve seats, and all sorts of nasty overhang was cleaned out from the bowls as you can see clearly above the valve seats. On the last head I gave the full treatment (40+ hours of hand labor) I picked up 4lbs/min at the same boost (actually ~3.x) That is about 25-30whp, and the exhaust note got much deeper. So with this one I am trying to justify the time spent on knife edging, I know there is benefit but how much is what I am curious about.

This is a picture I found on another tuning forum from a poster who decided to try his hand at port work and made a mess of it:



Consider I did mine in the garage with some dremel tools, rasps, diamond paste and several grades of sand paper, and brake cleaner, yet it did not come out like that.

So this should not discourage anyone who wants to give it a shot, but maybe take some time, read and practice on a junk head first. On a Honda head I would clean, polish, knife edge and blend, but really you want to leave the port and valve sizes the same. Bigger is not better here. Smooth transitions and velocity or the key to power.

 

A fabricator has started making some bolt-in 12.5gal sumped fuel tanks for 1G DSMs, which can be anodized for use with methanol/ethanol. I was going to start looking into whether or not he could make something for us to run say a bigger in-tank pump or two parallel pumps and retain a stock fuel gauge sending unit.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


We also have a few different sets of cams lying around, including a couple sets of OE cams in varying degrees of aggresiveness and wanted to see what works best with which size turbo (which we also have a few of ) and see if we can get any good data after I finish my cylinder head experiment..

 

Hopefully if anyone is to attempt this kind of port work, use a junked head from an engine of similar displacement to practice on and don't get carried away around the valve guides.... I have used files for sharpening chain saw blades that I heated and bent for working around curves... I have done a few motor cycle heads with very satisfying results and one that was unbelievable until an exhaust valve guide popped loose... Removal of a tiny amount of metal makes a huge difference.... It is best if you abstain from alcohol use while doing this.

 

QFT!

Or you'll end up with this:

 

I would be interested in a cam gear for our Fits like this D series:



It looks like we might have room too, but getting to it would certainly be less than convenient. I wonder how much cam angle phasing we can do with the ECU to compensate for this.. the K series have something like 50* of flexibility.





I really want some sort of bolt in fuel cell option with a sump, vent, stock fill tube, -6 or -8AN fittings and some sort of external pump mount like this:








I want to point out that the two fuel pumps on that tank are Bosch -044 pumps, and on big enough lines in paralllel can flow enough for 900awhp on a boosted setup