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DIY: Auxiliary on Base Fit

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  #61  
Old 03-21-2007, 03:13 PM
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CAT6 and CAT5 are LAN Network Cables. You can get a 6ft CAT5 or CAT6 patch cord at your local CompUSA and just cut off the jacks and use the twisted pairs within the cable for this install. LAN Cables have 8 wires (4 twisted pairs) inside of it that are color coded. You need only use 4 of the 8 wires. Difference between CAT5 and CAT6 is the guage, CAT6 cables are a little bit thicker in guage to allow for the higher frecuencies of a faster (GIGABIT based) LAN interface. For this application either one will do just fine.

As for wiring just follow the wiring diagram specified by smeister on the first page. You can either crip or solder the wires, soldering is a little tougher if you have little experience but will provide the best result. I used soldering at the AUX jack itself and crimped with fishing wire crimpers to the pins on the back of the radio because I didn't have neither the experience nor the proper tools to solder at the radio itself so I went for the crimping method.

To get to the AUX jack's position you have to remove the entire center console by first unscrewing the shift knob off the shifter, poping out the plastic tab under the emergency brake (this will allow for clearance with the e-brake when pulling out the center console) and after that just remove the two clips (one on each side) that are at the front of the center consle and two screws at the back (one on each side also) these can be easily accessed by rolling both front seats forward.

Finally as for removing the stock radio just follow the instructions on the Music Link instructions they are very clear and well written with proper ilustrations and everything, not as hard as some people here make it out to be.
 
  #62  
Old 03-21-2007, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by nttdemented
Finally as for removing the stock radio just follow the instructions on the Music Link instructions they are very clear and well written with proper ilustrations and everything, not as hard as some people here make it out to be.
We've all heard the expression "so easy even a caveman can do it" but how about a girl with no experience in car stereos or center console removal? I'd hate to rip everything apart and then not be able to get it all back in place. Masking tape would look pretty damn bad...
 
  #63  
Old 03-21-2007, 04:03 PM
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Well I have a AT base (don't ask) although I have removed the center console in a Prelude (MT) and the headunit.

I'm just nervous although I'm sure it can be done if followed logically.
 
  #64  
Old 04-09-2007, 06:20 PM
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smeister & db_et_ac, about how long would you say it took you to do? (I'm hoping to go with db_et_ac's version with kudos given to smeister) I'm gonna get an audio guy to do it, I'll buy the parts ($50ish total?) and he'll do it, but how much should I pay for the work?
 
  #65  
Old 04-09-2007, 07:22 PM
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It doesnt take long. You take off the heatunit, take off the center console, plug into the back of the headunit and route the cable down to the center console, remove the plug and replace it with the new aux plug and put it all back together. It should take an hour. You don't have to do any sodering and you have all the schematics on where to plug things into and how to take everything apart.
 
  #66  
Old 04-09-2007, 07:35 PM
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Do you think someone who is mildly capable of DIY projects could do it? I've never done any kind of car electronics work, but if it's as simple as taking something apart, adding a plug, connecting to another piece and closing it up, then I think I might be able to handle it.

But if I did get someone to do it for me, how much should I offer? Is $50 too little?
 
  #67  
Old 04-10-2007, 09:53 AM
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Semi-stereo

I did this last weekend and it's working pretty well - the only problem is that I only get both channels of audio when the plug is pulled slightly out of the jack. I'm pretty confident that all my connections are good - could it just be the wrong kind of cable? I'm using a regular old Radio Shack stereo miniplug-to-stereo miniplug cable. If there's something better you can recommend, or if it sounds like I screwed up somewhere, I'd appreciate any feedback. Otherwise thanks to all for posting these instructions!!!
 
  #68  
Old 04-11-2007, 10:06 PM
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If you used smeister's 4 pin plug method and you weren't careful enough with the pins on the plug itself it might end up with that sort of screwiness. With my plug I kinda yanked one of the pins a bit to hard but I fixed it up and it sounds good but if I reach down and move around the plug inside the jack it crackles a bit.
 
  #69  
Old 04-12-2007, 08:50 AM
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Oh well, I thought I was pretty careful with the jack but it looks like I should reexamine the connections. At least it's easier to take the center console out than the radio. :^)
 
  #70  
Old 04-26-2007, 01:49 AM
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Question:What are the procedures?

what is the step by step procedure after you hook up all the connections at the back of auxiliarry jack and at the back of the stereo?what i mean is the right way to turn on the stereo so you can use the ipod,does the 12 volt cigarette lighter needs to be hook up to in order to use the auxiliarry jack?
 
  #71  
Old 04-26-2007, 02:56 AM
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Connect iPod, Select AUX and adjust the Volume

Originally Posted by boyetssilverfit
what is the step by step procedure after you hook up all the connections at the back of auxiliarry jack and at the back of the stereo?what i mean is the right way to turn on the stereo so you can use the ipod,does the 12 volt cigarette lighter needs to be hook up to in order to use the auxiliarry jack?
The 12 volt Auxiliary power source port (cigarette lighter) has nothing to do with the Radio's Auxiliary Jack port. They are two seperate things.

Once you get the AUX connector wired to make the connections to the back of the Radio...all you do is connect your ipod to the AUX Connector via a mini stereo jack plug (small headphone jack). Note: Make sure the connector wire has a male connector on both ends.

Turn on your car's Radio and select the AUX button on the Radio. This selects the Radio's source as AUX. Play music on your ipod and it comes out your speakers. Control the volume on your ipod and on the Radio to adjust the loudness of the sound. Your Radio will not show the song names on the screen of the Radio. It will always just show the word AUX.

By the way, The AUX connector will NOT charge your iPod for you. If you buy an adapter then you can charge your iPod via the 12 Volt port next to the AUX connector.
 
  #72  
Old 05-04-2007, 07:18 PM
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i would like to thank all the people who contributed to make this project successful,it cost me $ 125 to finish this project and i put in around 15 hours to complete the job,(2-3 hours a day no rush)i have no experience in fixing car stereo or pulling out a new car stereo,but i have experience in soldering.,i bought a soldering iron,soldering lead,electrical tape,CAT 6 cable,individual id bit cable 22 AWG,shrink wrap,6 inches extension socket wrench which is the greatest help in pulling out the head unit,auxilliary jack that i bought in at local honda dealer(their not friendly in my experience),None of the local Honda dealership in our area wants to install the auxlliary jack to the head unit,i tried a local electronic shop to do it for me but their charging me $ 575 just for labor !!!,so i decided to do this and im completely satisfied how my iPod sounds,for you guys out there that have a base model like mine who wanted to install the auxilliary jack, this is easy job !!!,the question is how much time are you willing to put in?
 

Last edited by boyetssilverfit; 05-04-2007 at 07:26 PM.
  #73  
Old 05-04-2007, 07:22 PM
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  #74  
Old 05-04-2007, 07:31 PM
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You are welcome! A lot of people contributed to this thread and I am really satisfied it's being put into use. It looks like you did a pretty PRO job there.
 
  #75  
Old 06-23-2007, 11:05 PM
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smeister & db_et_ac:

Awesome write-up! Thanks so much!

Just a couple questions:

In the diagram and pin description of Connector B of the audio unit, there is a pin "B4 - Auxilary jack assembly (AUX SHIELD GND)". Is this not connected/used in the hookup?

Also, is there any way to get around using the CAT6 cable? Are 3ft long ID Bit cables available? Can multiple cables be connected?

How about extending a single ID bit cable with extra cable? You would have 5 long cables that would each go directly pin to pin, which would simply avoid soldering at the pins. Would you sacrifice sound quality?

Thanks, I'm eager to do this to my Base Fit.
 

Last edited by p1driftfiend; 06-23-2007 at 11:09 PM.
  #76  
Old 07-02-2007, 11:00 AM
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I did use B4. Terminal 4 to both B3 (AUX SIG GND) and B4 (AUX SHIELD GND)

I think someone did use Cat6 cable.

I would think as long as there is a solid connection you wont suffer sound quality, but of course sodering is pretty solid if done right. You won't have to worry about it coming loose.
 
  #77  
Old 07-02-2007, 01:57 PM
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same problem

Originally Posted by conkyfilms
I did this last weekend and it's working pretty well - the only problem is that I only get both channels of audio when the plug is pulled slightly out of the jack. I'm pretty confident that all my connections are good - could it just be the wrong kind of cable? I'm using a regular old Radio Shack stereo miniplug-to-stereo miniplug cable. If there's something better you can recommend, or if it sounds like I screwed up somewhere, I'd appreciate any feedback. Otherwise thanks to all for posting these instructions!!!

I am having the same problem as described by conkyfilms.

Firstly thanks to everyone, smeister, et al. Your DIY was great. Although I was scared at first, it worked like a charm. no damage to my car. except two broken clips that hold the central console (the one with the lighter port).

The problem I am having is:

When I plug the jack all the way in, i get sound only from the right speakers. but when i pull it out half way, i get sound from both sets of speakers.

my thinking is that somehow the left and ground (terminal 1 and terminal 3) got linked. i will do some further investigation with a multimeter (test continuity) and let you guys know. i am pretty sure the problem lies with my soldering.

the other option is to purchase the honda official part and replace it.

pratik
 
  #78  
Old 07-02-2007, 02:18 PM
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Yeah, this is pretty strange. The jack should not be loose. It should feel like the 3.5mm jack like on your mp3 player.

Has anyone even been able to source the official Honda parts for this?
 
  #79  
Old 07-02-2007, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by smeister
I did use B4. Terminal 4 to both B3 (AUX SIG GND) and B4 (AUX SHIELD GND)
Your jack has 4 points, but the Honda jack has five. I was referring to this:

Originally Posted by db_et_ac

SO match the description of the AUX connector to the stereo "B" connector:

STEREO "B" CONNECTOR TO OEM AUX CONNECTOR..

B3 - AUX SIG GND ----> to CAVITY 3 on AUX Connector
B5 - AUX GND -------> to CAVITY 2 on AUX Connector
B13 - AUX LEFT ------> to CAVITY 4 on AUX Connector
B14 - AUX RIGHT------> to CAVITY 5 on AUX Connector
B15 - AUX DET -------> to CAVITY 1 on AUX Connector
I'm a little confused about not seeing B4 listed. Am I just missing something?
 
  #80  
Old 07-03-2007, 05:43 AM
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Aux Jack Issues

Car is 3 days old, just noticed when I plug in my mp3 player with the male to male 3.5's, I am only getting sound from the left side speakers. If you pull the male end out just slightly at the aux jack you get both sides in stereo. I have about 4 pairs of 3.5 male to male and tried them all. The issue is the pos jack. Anyone else had this problem? I am taking it in today to the service department to express my anger.

I searched these forumns and the web for an answer but apparently no one else is having this problem with thier Fits?

2007 Fit
2004 Accord
2002 Volusia

Matt in N.C
 


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