I agree as long as the screws don't come loose and you keep using the shifter. But even if they moved around a lot a quick pass with a file will remove any irregularities no possible need to replace the shifter arm to return to stock.
I am with Dave & Claymore on this Skunk2 SS statement, it does not make sense to me either. I currently have this SK2 kit sitting at home waiting to be installed, I would like to hear the reasoning behind this.
James, when you have a chance could you follow up with H-Fit for a more in depth explaination of why they believe this to be true. I think if they are going to make statements about competitor products they need to back it up with a proper explaination to justify their claims.
I would like to answer this question, but I am awaiting some information from the administrators of fitfreak with respect to what is within the forum rules.
Okay cleared some stuff with the admins so we're good to go.
As for the set screw, break everything, cant go back to stock, gotta rebuild your whole car comment.
It is not true.
We wanted to make sure that this was clear.
Please note in our product description in a previous post, that we use the same fastening method as other mentioned short shift kits . Set screws. We use 4. I am not sure how many set screws other manufacturers kits use however.
The main difference between our mounting method and the other kits referenced in prior posts is that our set screws screw in perpendicular to the OEM shifter shaft and press into the fat section of the shifter shaft way above the OEM ball. This eliminates all possibility of marring or otherwise damaging the OEM shifter ball.
From what I have seen on other kits is that the set screws come in at an angle and drive into the top of the OEM shifter ball for retention. This method of attachment is very secure, but it does allow the possibility of damage from the set screws contact to the OEM shifter ball. From our review, even if damage does happen due to this mounting method, it would not be on an area of the shifter ball that would be detrimental to shifter function.
I hope this has cleared things up a bit. We apologize for the confusion.
As always, questions welcomed.
I see what you were referring to, that makes more sense. I think there was some miscommunication from the initial message.
James, I would like to thank you again for taking the time to come onto the forum and address this concern in a formal write up. This is something that affects me and a number of other members who use this site. I have to say it is nice to see when people take a genuine interest in helping out others even though in your case you didn't have any real obligation to do so. Again, thanks!
Got mine today and just installed it. Man, it was a pretty big pain to get the stubby piece fitted onto the stock shift lever. Tolerances are TIGHT! Quality parts, great customer service and it's definitely a shorter throw now. Good addition to my stealthy addition of upgrades for the Fit.
i got mines today too
but i have work tongiht so i dont want to strain ahhaha imma install it tomorrow
i dont get the part about the allen wrench thingy to tirghten the screws + the locktight thing can you explain to me what you did MR. B???
Pretty much you have to get the H-Fit onto the bottom of the factory shift lever and that's a major pain to get it all the way on. You should take out the allen screws to make sure it's all the way on too. Once you do that, take some of the loctite and put it on the allen screws and tighten them up. I did mine pretty tight as they're a secondary pre-caution to keep the H-Fit from sliding off.
Last thing I wanna do is have that piece flying off mid-shift on the track.
HEY GUYS
OMG it took freakin 2 hours
cuz i couldnt get cable A out
=[
but i did and when i was installing the short shifter adapter i lost 2 of the allen screws
=[
i was wondering where i could get some do you think a local hardware store may have then
and also i just installed 2 of the screws and was playign with the shifter and i noticed when i shift into 1,and 3 the lower part hits the back wall
I'm not sure about where to get allen screws so small, but you can contact H-Fit to see if they'll be able to get you some spares. I also don't have a problem with it "hitting" in 1st and 3rd? Could you perhaps take more pictures and maybe ask H-Fit about it?
Cable A is easiest to take out if you have a crescent wrench for leverage and gently turn it counter clockwise.
I'm not sure about where to get allen screws so small, but you can contact H-Fit to see if they'll be able to get you some spares. I also don't have a problem with it "hitting" in 1st and 3rd? Could you perhaps take more pictures and maybe ask H-Fit about it?
Cable A is easiest to take out if you have a crescent wrench for leverage and gently turn it counter clockwise.
about the screws H-Fit has nicely sent me an e-mail saying they would send me a few, and so far i assume that i may have not tapped the adapter in with a plastic hammer or soemthing
so i will double check on that
and yeh cable A was a B*tch to pull out i just used some leveage
and im not sure how to pry cable B out ahhaha it seems stuck on to me
i didnt want to brake my flat head
any advice on taking that out???
what i did was take cable A out and just flipped over the shifter assembly
=] so yeh im just ognna wait for the screws to come in and redo everything
You definitely need to take the assembly out so you can securely hold it while you pound in the H-Fit. Well, not pound it in with a hammer but more so with a mallet or something to soften the blow of the hammer. I told you it was a pain. I'm also guessing your hitting in 1st and 3rd might be because it's not fully in either.
The instructions told ya to get the metal clip off of cable B. I had zero trouble with that one so... I dunno where you're stuck. Maybe calling H-Fit may enlighten the matter.
GD3 Squad Member #72 
)
Linear Mode
