GE: Wiring ON/OFF button for DRLs?

[skytanker2003]

So, how much do you guys know about HIDs? I ask because while I was looking around under the hood, I noticed that when I installed them, there was a (+) wire that hooked directly to the battery. When I take this wire off the terminal the lights turn off with DRLs or headlights on. Any chance that wire is the reason the lights don't dim?

Also, I don't know what the HID component below is, but with the DRLs and HIDs working, it seems like it vibrates, but when I turn my headlights on, the vibrating stops, whether the wire mentioned above is hooked up or not.

[stevet47]

For the first part.... It sounds like the HIDs draw power straight from the battery, so you would be right, it is always 12v. It sounds like the stock bulb socket it used as a switch signal, and whether it is the headlights or the DRLs there is enough power to tigger switch, so that the HIDs draw power from the battery.

That is just my guess. I have HIDs, but they are in auxiliary lights, so they are wired differently.

As for the 2nd part of your question... I can't quite tell how big that is in your picture, but it looks the relay. The relay is the switch I mentioned above, it is what would switch the HIDs on/off based on whether or not it gets power from the stock bulb socket.

The relay works via an electromagnetic switch. When current runs though it, it energized the electromagnet and pulls the contact towards it, engaging the switch. If no current is running though it, the contact is pulled away by a small spring. You should be able to hear a click when it switches. If it is buzzing, the electromagnet is not getting enough current to hold the contact steady, and the contact is flip flopping back and forth, possibly hundreds of times per second, this will certainly damage your HIDs.

It is a 12v relay, meaning it takes 12v for it to hold the contact open. When you have your headlights on, it holds the contact open, therefore there is no vibrating. When your DRLs are on, it probably has 9v or so, meaning it is not enough to hold it open firmly, creating the flip/flop vibrating.

You could technically replace the relay with one that operates at a wider range of voltages, so that is opens firmly with the voltage from the DRL signal. HOWEVER, even though the relay will stay open, the HIDs are not meant to run at this reduced voltage, so you will still have problems.

I really think your best bet would be taping the headlights into a keyed hot signal.

[skytanker2003]

Yeah, I am definitely not going to use the OEM DRL system to run the HIDs, hearing everything that's been said here about the damage...they're $80 to replace!

I just gotta find the radio power wire to tap into...apparently I can't tap into the fusebox for it (just tried)

[stevet47]

Originally Posted by skytanker2003

Yeah, I am definitely not going to use the OEM DRL system to run the HIDs, hearing everything that's been said here about the damage...they're $80 to replace!

I just gotta find the radio power wire to tap into...apparently I can't tap into the fusebox for it (just tried)

It doesn't HAVE to be the radio. It can be anything that is on with the key.
Also, in order to tap into it at the fuse you will need and Add-a-Fuse.
Here is what it looks like, you can get it at any autoparts store:
Amazon.com: Bussmann BP/HHH ATM Add-A-Fuse: Automotive
Basically it allows you to add another circuit (your HIDs in this case) with its own fuse via the signal from whichever fuse you use without effecting the original circuit.

[skytanker2003]

Perfect. Will do! Thanks again...this should hopefully be it! hahaha!

[niko3257]

now your talking. if you have a separate harness powering your HID's
then your okay. your hid's will not fail. just your relay might. but those
are cheap.
as for your switch you could just put one inline where your oem harness
attaches to your hid's harness. this will work. cause you will be cutting
the power to the relay with your switch. this will make all go out. just the
way you want it.

[ricardoortiz76]

Originally Posted by skytanker2003

So, how much do you guys know about HIDs? I ask because while I was looking around under the hood, I noticed that when I installed them, there was a (+) wire that hooked directly to the battery. When I take this wire off the terminal the lights turn off with DRLs or headlights on. Any chance that wire is the reason the lights don't dim?

Also, I don't know what the HID component below is, but with the DRLs and HIDs working, it seems like it vibrates, but when I turn my headlights on, the vibrating stops, whether the wire mentioned above is hooked up or not.

where i can find switch on/off to hid relays????

[skytanker2003]

Could you rephrase the question? I have the power wire to the relay still going to the (+) on the battery. But to bypass the headlight switch, I ran an "Add-A-Fuse" to the "Drivers Power Window" fuse to the headlight power spade on the 3-spade connector at the headlight bulb. I put an inline switch permanently put to on so that I can turn my headlights off when going through our military gate, but if you don't want that, you don't need a fuse. My fogs are wired the same way.

Basically, as soon as I turn the key to any position out of "OFF", the headlights/fogs come on (because the fuse they're Add-A-Fused into, is the Power Windows which energize when you turn the key). Thanks everyone for that idea!!! They work great!!!

[ricardoortiz76]

thanks ...!!

[ricardoortiz76]

i have bixenon in my fit an also a puchase a relay harness with 50 watts and 5 ohm i need to know .. when a turn on the lights the resistor goes extremely hot thats suposed to happen ... i call the person who sell me the relay harnness they told me thats its correct...


other question ??? never the DRL signal turn off when put the brake down???

[j5ive]

I've never worked on a GE, or know much about its circuits, but based on my Canadian GD with DRL, I don't think it should be all that difficult to run a DRL override switch.

On the Canadian spec GD, there are two fuses relating to the DRL system. A 7.5A fuse at slot 8, and a 10A fuse at slot 18. I gave instructions in my blog post that you only need to remove the 7.5A fuse from slot 8 to disable the system.

That post was written before I got my Helm's manual. And after checking the diagram in the manual, the 7.5A fuse is simply in-line of a trigger wire from the ignition on to the DRL module. Therefore, if no signal gets through, the DRL system doesn't thing the car's on, thus does not turn the DRL on or throw any warning lights. So that's why my instructions worked.

Now, assuming I wanted to not disable the DRL completely, but to wire in an override switch so I can turn the DRL on/off manually, I would simply wire in a switch on that trigger wire. Say, cut the wire behind the Slot 8 fuse, and wire in a switch inline. This way, when I turn the switch off, it would essentially be like I pulled the fuse and the circuit is incomplete; so the DRL stays off. However, when I flip the switch on, the DRL circuit is as stock, and will function as stock.

Wiring your headlights to a switched power source and rendering the headlight switch completely useless seems silly to me.

[ricardoortiz76]

i do that thanks you apreciate

Originally Posted by j5ive

I've never worked on a GE, or know much about its circuits, but based on my Canadian GD with DRL, I don't think it should be all that difficult to run a DRL override switch.

On the Canadian spec GD, there are two fuses relating to the DRL system. A 7.5A fuse at slot 8, and a 10A fuse at slot 18. I gave instructions in my blog post that you only need to remove the 7.5A fuse from slot 8 to disable the system.

That post was written before I got my Helm's manual. And after checking the diagram in the manual, the 7.5A fuse is simply in-line of a trigger wire from the ignition on to the DRL module. Therefore, if no signal gets through, the DRL system doesn't thing the car's on, thus does not turn the DRL on or throw any warning lights. So that's why my instructions worked.

Now, assuming I wanted to not disable the DRL completely, but to wire in an override switch so I can turn the DRL on/off manually, I would simply wire in a switch on that trigger wire. Say, cut the wire behind the Slot 8 fuse, and wire in a switch inline. This way, when I turn the switch off, it would essentially be like I pulled the fuse and the circuit is incomplete; so the DRL stays off. However, when I flip the switch on, the DRL circuit is as stock, and will function as stock.

Wiring your headlights to a switched power source and rendering the headlight switch completely useless seems silly to me.