Fit RacingDiscuss all Legal Fit and Jazz racing info and stories here.
Welcome to Fit Freak!
Welcome to Fit Freak,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
I looked long and hard at those Enkeis, believe me. The weight is awe inspiring, they look great, and they have a fantastic record in terms of reliability. But I wasn't big on going a full inch wider on rims when I had no intention of going to a wider tire. Plus I may put Swift springs on the car in the future, and it seems as though people with the RPF1's end up grappling with rubbing issues whenever they lower the car. I didn't want to be bothered. Go ahead, call me lazy.
Gonna go check out those Conti's...
If you go with the 195/55s with the +41 you'll be safe. If you want 205/50 you'll need +43. If you rub the tabs pinch it up with your fingers, that will give you an additional 3-5mms.
I love how this ancient thread gets revived just as I'm making my final decisions on a summer wheel/tire setup.
I understand and appreciate the fact that tire weight matters more than wheel weight when rotational inertia is the focus. But let's not forget that wheels and tires are unsprung weight and that they accelerate in vertical directions as well. Reducing the overall weight of the wheel/tire combination is going to make the car feel sprightlier and should also improve its ability to respond to the bumps and dips encountered in everyday driving.
If anyone is interested I am going with Mugen RnR's 15x6.5 +45 offset, 10.5lbs. each -- about 5lbs. per corner less than stock. Tires (probably) Michelin Pilot Exaltos, 195/55 15, 18lbs. each -- same as the stockers according to Tire Rack.
I'm hoping for a nimbler feel, livelier acceleration, and maybe even a bit better gas mileage; but to be honest the thing I'm most looking forward to is finally getting those awful Dunlops off the car.
The lighter wheels matter but the 206/50x15's have 1/2" less diameter so their weight balances out with the added torque availavilable from the smaller diameter.
We've tried all manner of tires on our Fit in a simulated A?X course and still find 205/50x15's best. And if you really want GRIP try Hoosier 205/50x15's on 15x7 Enkei wheels. I believe you can flip a Fit in a 90 degree turn with those things. A6's also 18 lb.
I have had no wheel hop problems since going with the RPF1, Conti Pro Contact combination, I had a very slight rubbing on the front on bumpy turns but the tires pushed the wheel well liners to where the do't now and did no damage in the process.
If you go with the 195/55s with the +41 you'll be safe. If you want 205/50 you'll need +43. If you rub the tabs pinch it up with your fingers, that will give you an additional 3-5mms.
A friend with Enkei 15x7 +41's and 195/55R15 Dunlop Star Specs rubs front and rear. He's also running Tanabe springs. He did the tab mod up front but will still rub in the back if he's carrying passengers. Since I may change springs in the future and go to 205's, I really wanted +45 offset.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mahout
We've tried all manner of tires on our Fit in a simulated A?X course and still find 205/50x15's best.
That's an extremely interesting observation; I'd like to hear more on how you arrived at that conclusion. Was it because larger sizes extracted too much weight penalty? What other factors contributed to that being the ideal size?
Quote:
And if you really want GRIP try Hoosier 205/50x15's on 15x7 Enkei wheels. I believe you can flip a Fit in a 90 degree turn with those things. A6's also 18 lb.
Not surprised to hear that. I saw an Saab 93 go up on two wheels at an autocross a few years ago and he was running race tires. My needs are not quite that specific.
A friend with Enkei 15x7 +41's and 195/55R15 Dunlop Star Specs rubs front and rear. He's also running Tanabe springs. He did the tab mod up front but will still rub in the back if he's carrying passengers. Since I may change springs in the future and go to 205's, I really wanted +45 offset.
Bend the tab up in back too. The Dunlop Star Specs has an extremely large rim gaurd making the sidewall near the top wider.
Lightweight wheels, and forged wheels are better. There is no real way around it other than what cash limits.
If you want some good motorsports wheels go get some SSR type Cs/Type Fs and call it a day.
It might depend on your budget.
Most affordable wheels are going to be gravity cast alloy. Not the strongest or lightest but good enough for street driving and most performance driving.
Forged wheels are going to cost more. Some are quite light but others more moderate. Forged are going to be strong despite less weight but not bullet proof so don't hit any potholes at speed or other road hazzards.
Over twenty years ago Honda was utilizing pressure casting for pistons. They were close to the strength of forged pistons but lighter and didn't require the larger clearances that forged pistons do..... I wonder if there is any reason that Enkei or other wheel manufacturers don't use the same..... Maybe they do and call the process gravity casting.
Agreed! Only a precious few tire websites out there state what their tires actually weigh.
One could get lightweight wheels believing they'll have less unsprung weight...but conveniently forget about tire weight. In some cases the final lightweight wheel + performance tire weight is actually heavier than stock.
Agreed! Only a precious few tire websites out there state what their tires actually weigh.
One could get lightweight wheels believing they'll have less unsprung weight...but conveniently forget about tire weight. In some cases the final lightweight wheel + performance tire weight is actually heavier than stock.
That is what I found out before I purchased my tires and wheels and opted out for performance touring tires.... 9 1/2 lb. wheels and 18 lb tires = 27 1/2 lbs.... My car will never come anywhere close to the 148MPH rating..... I ended up spending more money on motorcycle tires that were V rated in one year than on fuel and insurance but that was all that would fit the bike and I road it fast.... If I could do it again and afford it.... I would do it again.... If I was to be able to double the power on my Fit I would find it necessary to spend the big bucks and add rotational mass, but as it is now I know that the lighter tires make more economical sense and a positive difference in performance..... Bang for the buck is what it is all about if you don't have corporate sponsorship or are a trust fund baby.
I figured I'd ask the more rev happy ppl in this forum to see if they have any insight on wheel weights and how they affect our cars.
I understand that the current Fit Sport rims weigh 15.8lbs roughly.. now I have been contemplating getting 17" wheels that weigh 18lbs. I know that isn't much of a difference, but the wheels I am also considering are a set of 15" 10.6lb wheels.
So the difference in weight between the 2 different wheels that I am considering is 7.4lbs.
Now this could be a pretty big number when it comes to how my Fit will perform seeing as we are just rated above 100hp...
Can someone fill me in with their knowledge? what are the advantages and disadvantages?
I'm not going to track my car, but I do like to drive aggressively and don't want to make my Fit any slower than it already is.
the difference will feel like 20hp....for real
(this of course has nothing to due to the differences in handling, braking and comfort that will also result)
Linear Mode
