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again, rear discs are for looks ONLY. drums actually have a higher coefficient of friction than discs do. Only issue with drums is they are a bit harder to maintain(really not hard if you know what your doing) and they will heat up faster. But the fact is that the rear brakes do very little. The Spoon fit still uses drums, as well as the FASTEST Solo FWD in the US still uses drums.
SHG_Mike, I like the rear discs because IMHO it is easier to swap out the break pads, from daily to track pads. As for the Spoon Fit, I know they use the vented drums and they cost about $650 (sorry I can remember how much it really is or the part number). Since it cost that much, and all it is really is adding vents, I would rather get the rear disk.
P.S You are right with all your breaking power is at the front, and it cant hurt to have more breaking power to the rear to promote a bit more oversteer (or least in theory).
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Power- Blitz Throttle Controller (Thanks Dave), SHG_Mike inspired Airbox mod, T1R V2 muffler
Handling- Progress RearSway Bar w/Panducky bolts, T1r lower arm and rear strut bar, SPC Camber Kit, Falken Ziex ZE-912 w/ LS Meshes
Spoon doesnt use any crazy type of drum. Its the same drums that come on the Insight. They are aluminum and have vains to help cool them. DRUMS HAVE MORE BRAKING POWER THEN DISCS! But yes they are easier to swap pad's/shoe's on discs over drums
10. at the moment this should be more then enough for the fit, but IF YOU MUST HAVE MORE . Get better bucket seats, and for the stick people add the lighter flywheel and a better clutch, lsd and a final gear set.
Oh man, I want to put bucket seats on my top 10 list But what to get rid off.... lol
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Spoon doesnt use any crazy type of drum. Its the same drums that come on the Insight. They are aluminum and have vains to help cool them. DRUMS HAVE MORE BRAKING POWER THEN DISCS! But yes they are easier to swap pad's/shoe's on discs over drums
Interesting, I always thought disc's had like 20% more stopping power over drums of the same size. Learn something new everyday I guess.
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Another big advantage of drum brakes is they are much lighter than discs. But in any case I don't think braking is going to be a shortcoming for the Fit in autocross. If it is, just add some good aftermarket pads.
Here's my Top 10 mods for Stock class autocross:
1. Custom-made ultralight wheels (under 9# each) (set of 8, see below).
2. Two sets of R-comp tires, one for dry, one for wet days.
3. Custom Koni double-adjustable shock/strut inserts.
4. Custom front swaybar, adjustable for force and corner-weighting
5. Upgrade all suspension bushings to custom poly or metal
6. Roll bar
7. Full driver harnesses
8. Weight-slashing program (within the rules)
9. Aftermarket brake pads and fluid
10. Replace all fluids with race synthetics
Glad to have your input Mike, always nice to hear from people who have experience and want to share their advice.
Never read the rule book, only ever did it for fun. I plan to participate at least 20 some unrestricted Autocross events this upcoming summer. Everything from STI's to Skylines to early series EVO's typically show up. Doesn't matter if you are first or last, everybody comes to have a good time and push their car in a safe environment.
^^^+1 Ditto
Most of the events I have attended and would like to attend are Unrestricted. Its for fun...to get it out of your system.
I also recall the initial post saying something like Hypothetical, Unrestricted, and Money no object- Which I think was smart as we got some creative responses. Get them juices flowin
I too thought that disks had more stopping power (but I dunno...so if you say so) I do indeed know that they can be lighter and they are generally closer to the axis of rotation than disks. But I remember most fading way quicker and warping easier, and glazing to within an inch of their lives. The aluminum minifin type always seemed to do quite well though in cars that are lighter (especially in the rear)
Another big advantage of drum brakes is they are much lighter than discs. But in any case I don't think braking is going to be a shortcoming for the Fit in autocross. If it is, just add some good aftermarket pads.
Here's my Top 10 mods for Stock class autocross:
1. Custom-made ultralight wheels (under 9# each) (set of 8, see below).
2. Two sets of R-comp tires, one for dry, one for wet days.
3. Custom Koni double-adjustable shock/strut inserts.
4. Custom front swaybar, adjustable for force and corner-weighting
5. Upgrade all suspension bushings to custom poly or metal
6. Roll bar
7. Full driver harnesses
8. Weight-slashing program (within the rules)
9. Aftermarket brake pads and fluid
10. Replace all fluids with race synthetics
Nice list Skimmer, just curious... what brand of fluids would you use?
Yeah I can't bring myself to spend too much cash on the brake system in the Fit (at least in real life), that is why I went with new performance pads all around and SS brakelines instead.
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I'd probably just use all Red Line stuff, just because they have everything I would need in one place -- though for the Fit that's not asking much. All you really need is tranny and engine. I guess that's not a very exotic mod! So assume fluids get replaced with synthetics during normal maintenance (which I would do anyway) and here's a new #10:
So being this is a unrestricted idea I thought of a autocross project we thought of earlier this year.
Anyway.
1.Big diet first of all.....probably get the fit around 1300-1400#'s (lots of cf)
2. then some 15X10 bogarts in the front and 15X8's in the rear with goodyear auto-X rubber
3. superblue brake fluid and SS lines
4. Moton coil over set-up
5. 2:1 quicksteer
6-10. Ok i am thinking this is going to be an A-mod car. almost anything goes...so.....a built and turbocharged 1000RR (about 400hp) motor and transmission(paddle shifted) in the rear.
No even with all of that it would still get its ass-kicked in A-mod but it would be damn cool now wouldn't it.
by custom, im guessing he means 1-offs (basically a comissioned set)
anyways, heres my list
1. SSR 15x6 wheels (2 sets)
2. kumho 710s and hoosier r-comps (1 set each mounted)
3. Titanium 1-off catback (maximum weight loss)
4. Fully adjustable shocks/struts (koni, tokico, tein)
5. EDFC or similar electronic adjustment from in the cabin
6. Roll cage (within spec for stock class) with race 5pt belts
7. Several track sessions/schools to improve my own skills
8. Hawk HPS pads/shoes
9. OEM Crash bolts (along with most agressive alignment possible)
10. AMS-Oil and filter (race weight)
easily over 10k in mods, and i would still be in the stock class.
Koni makes shocks for the fit? I emailed them asking this question and got nothing. Im picking up a fit shortly and plan on running FSP
Not yet. The word is they are in the works, but won't be available for 12 months. I was thinking of a custom set (a quote I got was around $1400 for parts alone).
See this thread I started a little while ago for more:
why would you use 15x6 wheels? from my past experience a 15x7 is much better especially when your shopping for tires. 7 inch width gives you more of a selection as for as gripping... right? or am i wrong.. haha
why would you use 15x6 wheels? from my past experience a 15x7 is much better especially when your shopping for tires. 7 inch width gives you more of a selection as for as gripping... right? or am i wrong.. haha
What I believe is that it's a battle between weight and traction (for autox, maybe different for tracking). With the thiner wheel aka the 6 incher, you will get the full benefit of lightweight rims and I believe you would have the same traction from the stockers (assume you are still using the stock tires). While on the otherhand, if we were to go to the 7 inch we would get better traction, but the rims won't be as light as the 6 inch (assuming we are using the same kind of rams).
PS thanks Snap Fit
__________________
Entertainment- Pioneer Avic-D3
Power- Blitz Throttle Controller (Thanks Dave), SHG_Mike inspired Airbox mod, T1R V2 muffler
Handling- Progress RearSway Bar w/Panducky bolts, T1r lower arm and rear strut bar, SPC Camber Kit, Falken Ziex ZE-912 w/ LS Meshes
why would you use 15x6 wheels? from my past experience a 15x7 is much better especially when your shopping for tires. 7 inch width gives you more of a selection as for as gripping... right? or am i wrong.. haha
If you're running in Stock class, you have no other choice. The rules require wheels that match the stock dimensions and are also within .25" of the stock offset. In the case of the Fit -- as many people have discovered -- this severely limits your options because few lightweight 15x6 wheels are available, especially in anything close to the huge stock offset (55mm).
If you're going to try and compete in ST or Street Mod, you have a lot more choices. I believe in ST you are allowed no more than a 7" width, but I think you can use any offset and you might want to even use a 14" diameter to give the Fit a little gearing benefit (and an even lighter wheel).
i see as for as the stock class goes, but when you say the 6 inch wheel will be lighter isnt the 1inch width wider more beneficial since 1 it wont be a lot more heavier and you gain more traction. I dont know to me it seems that the little weight reduction you get in a 6inch width rim is not worth it if you cant put it on the ground. I dont know though.. haha
Also.... i think i should read this section more b.c theres more tech talk haha which i like. I learn new things more from this section than aanything else haha and thanks slimjim for explaining that to me.
. Get better bucket seats, and for the stick people add the lighter flywheel and a better clutch, lsd and a final gear set.
But what to get rid off.... lol 
- Which I think was smart as we got some creative responses. Get them juices flowin
(but I dunno...so if you say so) I do indeed know that they can be lighter and they are generally closer to the axis of rotation than disks. But I remember most fading way quicker and warping easier, and glazing to within an inch of their lives. The aluminum minifin type always seemed to do quite well though in cars that are lighter (especially in the rear)
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