Top 10 Auto-X Mods?
#21
again, rear discs are for looks ONLY. drums actually have a higher coefficient of friction than discs do. Only issue with drums is they are a bit harder to maintain(really not hard if you know what your doing) and they will heat up faster. But the fact is that the rear brakes do very little. The Spoon fit still uses drums, as well as the FASTEST Solo FWD in the US still uses drums.
P.S You are right with all your breaking power is at the front, and it cant hurt to have more breaking power to the rear to promote a bit more oversteer (or least in theory).
#22
Spoon doesnt use any crazy type of drum. Its the same drums that come on the Insight. They are aluminum and have vains to help cool them. DRUMS HAVE MORE BRAKING POWER THEN DISCS! But yes they are easier to swap pad's/shoe's on discs over drums
#23
Oh man, I want to put bucket seats on my top 10 list But what to get rid off.... lol
#24
Interesting, I always thought disc's had like 20% more stopping power over drums of the same size. Learn something new everyday I guess.
#25
To stay in sts class and include the parts I have already, I would say:
1: coilovers
2: Intake
3: header
4: exhaust
5:fender braces
6:sticky tires
7:light ass wheels
8:ss brake lines
9:rear sway bar
10:strut bars
1: coilovers
2: Intake
3: header
4: exhaust
5:fender braces
6:sticky tires
7:light ass wheels
8:ss brake lines
9:rear sway bar
10:strut bars
#26
Another big advantage of drum brakes is they are much lighter than discs. But in any case I don't think braking is going to be a shortcoming for the Fit in autocross. If it is, just add some good aftermarket pads.
Here's my Top 10 mods for Stock class autocross:
1. Custom-made ultralight wheels (under 9# each) (set of 8, see below).
2. Two sets of R-comp tires, one for dry, one for wet days.
3. Custom Koni double-adjustable shock/strut inserts.
4. Custom front swaybar, adjustable for force and corner-weighting
5. Upgrade all suspension bushings to custom poly or metal
6. Roll bar
7. Full driver harnesses
8. Weight-slashing program (within the rules)
9. Aftermarket brake pads and fluid
10. Replace all fluids with race synthetics
Here's my Top 10 mods for Stock class autocross:
1. Custom-made ultralight wheels (under 9# each) (set of 8, see below).
2. Two sets of R-comp tires, one for dry, one for wet days.
3. Custom Koni double-adjustable shock/strut inserts.
4. Custom front swaybar, adjustable for force and corner-weighting
5. Upgrade all suspension bushings to custom poly or metal
6. Roll bar
7. Full driver harnesses
8. Weight-slashing program (within the rules)
9. Aftermarket brake pads and fluid
10. Replace all fluids with race synthetics
#27
Glad to have your input Mike, always nice to hear from people who have experience and want to share their advice.
Never read the rule book, only ever did it for fun. I plan to participate at least 20 some unrestricted Autocross events this upcoming summer. Everything from STI's to Skylines to early series EVO's typically show up. Doesn't matter if you are first or last, everybody comes to have a good time and push their car in a safe environment.
Never read the rule book, only ever did it for fun. I plan to participate at least 20 some unrestricted Autocross events this upcoming summer. Everything from STI's to Skylines to early series EVO's typically show up. Doesn't matter if you are first or last, everybody comes to have a good time and push their car in a safe environment.
Most of the events I have attended and would like to attend are Unrestricted. Its for fun...to get it out of your system.
I also recall the initial post saying something like Hypothetical, Unrestricted, and Money no object- Which I think was smart as we got some creative responses. Get them juices flowin
I too thought that disks had more stopping power (but I dunno...so if you say so) I do indeed know that they can be lighter and they are generally closer to the axis of rotation than disks. But I remember most fading way quicker and warping easier, and glazing to within an inch of their lives. The aluminum minifin type always seemed to do quite well though in cars that are lighter (especially in the rear)
#28
lol, SnapFit has the idea
Nice list Skimmer, just curious... what brand of fluids would you use?
Yeah I can't bring myself to spend too much cash on the brake system in the Fit (at least in real life), that is why I went with new performance pads all around and SS brakelines instead.
Another big advantage of drum brakes is they are much lighter than discs. But in any case I don't think braking is going to be a shortcoming for the Fit in autocross. If it is, just add some good aftermarket pads.
Here's my Top 10 mods for Stock class autocross:
1. Custom-made ultralight wheels (under 9# each) (set of 8, see below).
2. Two sets of R-comp tires, one for dry, one for wet days.
3. Custom Koni double-adjustable shock/strut inserts.
4. Custom front swaybar, adjustable for force and corner-weighting
5. Upgrade all suspension bushings to custom poly or metal
6. Roll bar
7. Full driver harnesses
8. Weight-slashing program (within the rules)
9. Aftermarket brake pads and fluid
10. Replace all fluids with race synthetics
Here's my Top 10 mods for Stock class autocross:
1. Custom-made ultralight wheels (under 9# each) (set of 8, see below).
2. Two sets of R-comp tires, one for dry, one for wet days.
3. Custom Koni double-adjustable shock/strut inserts.
4. Custom front swaybar, adjustable for force and corner-weighting
5. Upgrade all suspension bushings to custom poly or metal
6. Roll bar
7. Full driver harnesses
8. Weight-slashing program (within the rules)
9. Aftermarket brake pads and fluid
10. Replace all fluids with race synthetics
Yeah I can't bring myself to spend too much cash on the brake system in the Fit (at least in real life), that is why I went with new performance pads all around and SS brakelines instead.
#29
I'd probably just use all Red Line stuff, just because they have everything I would need in one place -- though for the Fit that's not asking much. All you really need is tranny and engine. I guess that's not a very exotic mod! So assume fluids get replaced with synthetics during normal maintenance (which I would do anyway) and here's a new #10:
10. Ultralight titanium cat-back exhaust
10. Ultralight titanium cat-back exhaust
Last edited by Skimmer; 02-11-2008 at 07:30 PM.
#30
So being this is a unrestricted idea I thought of a autocross project we thought of earlier this year.
Anyway.
1.Big diet first of all.....probably get the fit around 1300-1400#'s (lots of cf)
2. then some 15X10 bogarts in the front and 15X8's in the rear with goodyear auto-X rubber
3. superblue brake fluid and SS lines
4. Moton coil over set-up
5. 2:1 quicksteer
6-10. Ok i am thinking this is going to be an A-mod car. almost anything goes...so.....a built and turbocharged 1000RR (about 400hp) motor and transmission(paddle shifted) in the rear.
No even with all of that it would still get its ass-kicked in A-mod but it would be damn cool now wouldn't it.
Anyway.
1.Big diet first of all.....probably get the fit around 1300-1400#'s (lots of cf)
2. then some 15X10 bogarts in the front and 15X8's in the rear with goodyear auto-X rubber
3. superblue brake fluid and SS lines
4. Moton coil over set-up
5. 2:1 quicksteer
6-10. Ok i am thinking this is going to be an A-mod car. almost anything goes...so.....a built and turbocharged 1000RR (about 400hp) motor and transmission(paddle shifted) in the rear.
No even with all of that it would still get its ass-kicked in A-mod but it would be damn cool now wouldn't it.
#31
Koni makes shocks for the fit? I emailed them asking this question and got nothing. Im picking up a fit shortly and plan on running FSP
#32
by custom, im guessing he means 1-offs (basically a comissioned set)
anyways, heres my list
1. SSR 15x6 wheels (2 sets)
2. kumho 710s and hoosier r-comps (1 set each mounted)
3. Titanium 1-off catback (maximum weight loss)
4. Fully adjustable shocks/struts (koni, tokico, tein)
5. EDFC or similar electronic adjustment from in the cabin
6. Roll cage (within spec for stock class) with race 5pt belts
7. Several track sessions/schools to improve my own skills
8. Hawk HPS pads/shoes
9. OEM Crash bolts (along with most agressive alignment possible)
10. AMS-Oil and filter (race weight)
easily over 10k in mods, and i would still be in the stock class.
anyways, heres my list
1. SSR 15x6 wheels (2 sets)
2. kumho 710s and hoosier r-comps (1 set each mounted)
3. Titanium 1-off catback (maximum weight loss)
4. Fully adjustable shocks/struts (koni, tokico, tein)
5. EDFC or similar electronic adjustment from in the cabin
6. Roll cage (within spec for stock class) with race 5pt belts
7. Several track sessions/schools to improve my own skills
8. Hawk HPS pads/shoes
9. OEM Crash bolts (along with most agressive alignment possible)
10. AMS-Oil and filter (race weight)
easily over 10k in mods, and i would still be in the stock class.
#33
See this thread I started a little while ago for more:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/gaug...tion-koni.html
#38
PS thanks Snap Fit
#39
If you're going to try and compete in ST or Street Mod, you have a lot more choices. I believe in ST you are allowed no more than a 7" width, but I think you can use any offset and you might want to even use a 14" diameter to give the Fit a little gearing benefit (and an even lighter wheel).
#40
i see as for as the stock class goes, but when you say the 6 inch wheel will be lighter isnt the 1inch width wider more beneficial since 1 it wont be a lot more heavier and you gain more traction. I dont know to me it seems that the little weight reduction you get in a 6inch width rim is not worth it if you cant put it on the ground. I dont know though.. haha
Also.... i think i should read this section more b.c theres more tech talk haha which i like. I learn new things more from this section than aanything else haha and thanks slimjim for explaining that to me.
Also.... i think i should read this section more b.c theres more tech talk haha which i like. I learn new things more from this section than aanything else haha and thanks slimjim for explaining that to me.