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I figured this might be a fun little hypothetical thread to start up;
If you could pick 10 things to change on your Fit to prepare it for an unrestricted Autocross style event, what would they be? Would you turbo? Would you focus strictly on suspension? How about a K20 swap?
Post up what you think would be the way to go if money was no object. here is my example wish-list
1. Mugen NR 17" (Mirror Face of course)
2. Pirelli PZero Nero 195/40/17 Tires
3. JR 10psi Supercharger Kit
4. T1R Suspension
5. J's Racing Header
6. J's Racing Titanium full exhaust
7. T1R Sway Bar
8. T1R Carbon Strut Bar
9. Oversize front brake Kit
10. Mugen short shifter
Anyway, have some fun with it.
Cheers!
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It's interesting to see where people prioritize their modifications.
1.)R-Comps
2.)Lighter, wider wheels
3.)Quaife LSD
4.)Custom set of coilovers
5.)6 or 7" chopped off the Fit's roofline
6.)Swaybars
7.)Toda or Jun stroked B16B/B18C5 w/Hondata
8.)JDM ITR/CTR trans
9.)One lightweight non-adjustable seat
10.)Lots of lexan
I'm suprised an LSD was left out of the above two posts.
I figured this might be a fun little hypothetical thread to start up;
If you could pick 10 things to change on your Fit to prepare it for an unrestricted Autocross style event, what would they be? Would you turbo? Would you focus strictly on suspension? How about a K20 swap?
Post up what you think would be the way to go if money was no object. here is my example wish-list
1. Mugen NR 17" (Mirror Face of course)
2. Pirelli PZero Nero 195/40/17 Tires
3. JR 10psi Supercharger Kit
4. T1R Suspension
5. J's Racing Header
6. J's Racing Titanium full exhaust
7. T1R Sway Bar
8. T1R Carbon Strut Bar
9. Oversize front brake Kit
10. Mugen short shifter
Anyway, have some fun with it.
Cheers!
I have a comment and question, all the turbo cars I have ever seen or had have always replaced the "header" with an "exhaust manifold". Does the J's Racing Kit still use the header if so where does the kit mount too?? Thx
I have a comment and question, all the turbo cars I have ever seen or had have always replaced the "header" with an "exhaust manifold". Does the J's Racing Kit still use the header if so where does the kit mount too?? Thx
the jackson racing kit isn't a turbocharger. it's a supercharger. belt driven. so, the exhaust manifold isn't touched.
HMMMMM....money no object and its unrestricted Buuuuuhahahahaa....MUUUHAHAHAHAHAHAaah
ok....*stretches finges*
1) supercharger for the fit
2) tow ball
3) small rig to tow another vehicle
4) Classic mini to do the auto X....ahhahahahaaa
K now on to some serious no object and unrestricted stuff (and if time was no concern in the preperation...)
I like the roof chop one! As I would dig it for just the aesthetics alone! Forget about lower cg!
1) buy an 07 Base Fit MT NBP (Im not using my daily for this!) I am thrifty you know.....AHAHAHAHAAH
2) gut it...and I mean gut it!!! naked shell as they say replace ALL of the shell and parts of the chassis with plate and molded CF, Must be painted to look stock
3) And LSD...cuz I appatently need one haahahaaaa
4) make one off TItanium suss with rubber dampeners (variable positioning) looks like a "V" when viewed from the front and rear
5) Lexan where applicable
6)Titanium bonded honey comb for rigidity only in places (I can even make that...and have )
7)lightend and balance egnine components
8)Old porshe magnesium 5lb 14 or 15" wheels with sticky smooth rubber
9)CF racing seat and harness
10) closer gears with a short shifter
must look darn near 100% bone stock from the general exterior
must have close to 100% original engine and exhaust components
k im done being silly for now
Have any of you guys ever read the rule book or competed seriously at auto-x?
-Any type of boost or engine swap would put you in SM, against the BUILT mighty Evos, which you will have 0 chance.
-Anything other then Kumho V710's or Hoosier a6's tires you will be left in the dust.
-Your best bet would be to get some koni dampers when they come out with stock springs, stock sized lighter wheels with R comps and run in H stock
OR
-Quality set of coilover suspension,
rear sway bar (NOT front),
Front camber plates and have it set to -2.5* to -3* in the front and around 1*-1.5* in the back.
Have the car corner weighted and balanced.
225 sized Rcomps on 15x7 wheels.
The simple bolt ons intake header exhaust etc.
LSD
Cobalt GTS pads in front with SS lines
ABS fuse pulled out if works better without abs (i havent driven one to find out)
And anyother FSP legal mod.
The Fit will be decently competitive in H stock or FSP but no other class
Have any of you guys ever read the rule book or competed seriously at auto-x?
-Any type of boost or engine swap would put you in SM, against the BUILT mighty Evos, which you will have 0 chance.
-Anything other then Kumho V710's or Hoosier a6's tires you will be left in the dust.
-Your best bet would be to get some koni dampers when they come out with stock springs, stock sized lighter wheels with R comps and run in H stock
OR
-Quality set of coilover suspension,
rear sway bar (NOT front),
Front camber plates and have it set to -2.5* to -3* in the front and around 1*-1.5* in the back.
Have the car corner weighted and balanced.
225 sized Rcomps on 15x7 wheels.
The simple bolt ons intake header exhaust etc.
LSD
Cobalt GTS pads in front with SS lines
ABS fuse pulled out if works better without abs (i havent driven one to find out)
And anyother FSP legal mod.
The Fit will be decently competitive in H stock or FSP but no other class
Looks usually, but in the case of road racing or hardcore lapping days its for heat dispersion. The larger brakes DO give you more braking torque, but the stock brakes with pads already have more tq then r comps can handle so its unnecessary.
Glad to have your input Mike, always nice to hear from people who have experience and want to share their advice.
Never read the rule book, only ever did it for fun. I plan to participate at least 20 some unrestricted Autocross events this upcoming summer. Everything from STI's to Skylines to early series EVO's typically show up. Doesn't matter if you are first or last, everybody comes to have a good time and push their car in a safe environment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHG_Mike
Have any of you guys ever read the rule book or competed seriously at auto-x?
-Any type of boost or engine swap would put you in SM, against the BUILT mighty Evos, which you will have 0 chance.
-Anything other then Kumho V710's or Hoosier a6's tires you will be left in the dust.
-Your best bet would be to get some koni dampers when they come out with stock springs, stock sized lighter wheels with R comps and run in H stock
OR
-Quality set of coilover suspension,
rear sway bar (NOT front),
Front camber plates and have it set to -2.5* to -3* in the front and around 1*-1.5* in the back.
Have the car corner weighted and balanced.
225 sized Rcomps on 15x7 wheels.
The simple bolt ons intake header exhaust etc.
LSD
Cobalt GTS pads in front with SS lines
ABS fuse pulled out if works better without abs (i havent driven one to find out)
And anyother FSP legal mod.
The Fit will be decently competitive in H stock or FSP but no other class
__________________
For a jolt of pure awesome... just click the sugarphreak button!
1. Light weight rims (it make a whole of a differents on all cars)
2. rear sway bar (autocross YOU NEED ALL THE OVERSTEER you can get, more most tracks)
3. a nice set of springs or coilovers depending how you plan to use your car (no need to explain with this )
4. I may get flame for this, but the J's roll center adjuster
At this point i would be done for a FUN autocrossing, but if you want great times. WE NEED MORE HP AND TQ
5. A nice cold air intake or a camber intake (I believe these would give you some more power, tq and more response from our weak fits)
6. Headers (MORE POWER AND TQ, if the car is for autocrossing I would go for more low end power)
7. Of couse we got to have the catback and muffler (Just because to want to sound fast )
8. At this stage I would highly recommend better pads that can handle high temp
At this point, I'm running out of things to add, but here goes
9. The pulley set (More responses and it puts power to the grounds)
10. at the moment this should be more then enough for the fit, but IF YOU MUST HAVE MORE . Get better bucket seats, and for the stick people add the lighter flywheel and a better clutch, lsd and a final gear set.
I may use up more then 10 in my list
P.S the reason I didn't mention anything about tires and big break kits/rearbreak dist, because I assume any one would get new tires when they get the rims, and with all those mods the fit would only have about 130whp (I hope) and the rear disk break is not out yet.
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Entertainment- Pioneer Avic-D3
Power- Blitz Throttle Controller (Thanks Dave), SHG_Mike inspired Airbox mod, T1R V2 muffler
Handling- Progress RearSway Bar w/Panducky bolts, T1r lower arm and rear strut bar, SPC Camber Kit, Falken Ziex ZE-912 w/ LS Meshes
again, rear discs are for looks ONLY. drums actually have a higher coefficient of friction than discs do. Only issue with drums is they are a bit harder to maintain(really not hard if you know what your doing) and they will heat up faster. But the fact is that the rear brakes do very little. The Spoon fit still uses drums, as well as the FASTEST Solo FWD in the US still uses drums.
here is my example wish-list 
haahahaaaa
)
. Get better bucket seats, and for the stick people add the lighter flywheel and a better clutch, lsd and a final gear set.
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