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well it wont increase oversteer if you add stiff enough springs to keep the same roll resistance. Remember you need to change the f/r ratio of roll resistance to change how much a car over or understeers.
yes they are... if you check out tirerack they have various hawk pads listed for the fit. HPS HP+ blues etc.... HPS are great for the street and autox HP+ are streetable if you want to track your car and blues are just for track.
Ive personally always used hawks, and we only use hawks on our racecars at work
do you use rear shims and/or front camber bolts for alignment? what are you alignment settings? factory specs is about 1/8 inch toe in for the rear with 1/8" tolerance. would you recommend using shims to alter alignment? or does this weaken the rear hub assembly?
after replacing exhaust/intake is it best to use an air/fuel controller? or is an ecu reset enough?
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guess what?!? my Fit is USDM!! and STOCK!
sorry lol, I/E stock ECU is fine. I use front bolt and eventually will get rear shims, no ill side effects from that. I have what ever the factory toe/camber in the rear, and -2* camber in the front 1/16" total toe out. 1/32" on each side.
Mike is right. All you'll need to do is let the computer relearn the idle trim by letting it idle for 5 minutes (then rev it a few times, perhaps). In some cases you may need to disconnect the battery first. I have replaced my intake, catback, and header and that's all I did.
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Best tank: 518.1 miles, 47 MPG -- Best commute: 50.3 in, 45 out
'07 NHBP Sport AT
Previous owner's mods: Tint front and back, Mugen visors
i just autoxed yesterday...i've been doing this for 2 years, and it's still so much fun. only equipment are tires (star spec 195/55R15) and rear anti-roll bar.
i got first in my class (ST) out of 6. 16th pax, 23rd raw out of 100+
i ran a 78.312 (really long course ^_^)
for reference:
#2 nationals d-stock ITR last year got a 75.860
s2k 72.615 (FTD) (had a 71 flat dirty)
fsp protege 72.903 (FTP) (had a 72.3 dirty)
nationals stx bmw 325: 74.642 (had a 73.2 dirty)
nationals HS mini: 78.071
from what i can see and what i've heard is that there's a sub-73s time out there for an ST civic...
if any time was left out there for me, it was probably less than half a second. with such a long course it was almost inevitable to hit a cone somewhere sometime...lucky for me my fastest run was clean
the fit is too soft for ST as of now...i definitely need more responsive suspension, going so fast through the course, the suspension can't keep up with the really fast wiggles, suspension would let me trace much more precise lines.
i also need more front tire and/or camber, with the inside rear lifting, i am still understeering in sweepers.
i hate how i can't do anything to my car at the moment...need...money...
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guess what?!? my Fit is USDM!! and STOCK!
congrats... what region were you at? was the protege purple? Thats a pretty good time considering your basically an HS car, with a sway, but your also on street tires when you can run r comps in HS.
an ST Ef would def run in the low 70's if the fsp and AS s2k's were running in the 72's
With strut type suspension, you want as much camber as you can get, so start there
do you use rear shims and/or front camber bolts for alignment? what are you alignment settings? factory specs is about 1/8 inch toe in for the rear with 1/8" tolerance. would you recommend using shims to alter alignment? or does this weaken the rear hub assembly?
after replacing exhaust/intake is it best to use an air/fuel controller? or is an ecu reset enough?
shims would theoretically weaken the rear hub..i've had no probs removing rear toe using shims and i track my fit and haul cargo
Of course it is "BEST" to use a/f controller...it's all about cost vs gain ratio..if money was no object, of course a/f is "BEST" but could YOU feel a difference?
hot bits make coilovers for jazz....oh by the way they r REAL coilovers that can be bought with independent compression and rebound control, external reservoir, and helper springs, they r rebuildable too...u don't want to know how much they cost but if u want that kind of performace, cost is no object hint: price comparable to FI
i just autoxed yesterday...i've been doing this for 2 years, and it's still so much fun. only equipment are tires (star spec 195/55R15) and rear anti-roll bar.
i got first in my class (ST) out of 6. 16th pax, 23rd raw out of 100+
i ran a 78.312 (really long course ^_^)
for reference:
#2 nationals d-stock ITR last year got a 75.860
s2k 72.615 (FTD) (had a 71 flat dirty)
fsp protege 72.903 (FTP) (had a 72.3 dirty)
nationals stx bmw 325: 74.642 (had a 73.2 dirty)
nationals HS mini: 78.071
from what i can see and what i've heard is that there's a sub-73s time out there for an ST civic...
if any time was left out there for me, it was probably less than half a second. with such a long course it was almost inevitable to hit a cone somewhere sometime...lucky for me my fastest run was clean
the fit is too soft for ST as of now...i definitely need more responsive suspension, going so fast through the course, the suspension can't keep up with the really fast wiggles, suspension would let me trace much more precise lines.
i also need more front tire and/or camber, with the inside rear lifting, i am still understeering in sweepers.
i hate how i can't do anything to my car at the moment...need...money...
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