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yea protege was purple....i heard he was beating jinx's fsp eg civic...
st is supposed to be slower than fsp according to pax.
this is a local event...scca is too expensive for me
Yea he beat Jinx at the Georgia nat's lol i was there. That thing is fast as hell. And yes the ST civics are "supposed" to be slower but at dixie, they were putting down 47's with that protoge running 48's with one 47. There are some fast ass civic out there with 225 R1r's and motons.
To imortal, how would the shims "in theory" weaken the hub. Only thing that could possibly happen and only with forces so strong that could only happen in a crash is flaten the plastic because it is weaker.
sigh...i've been looking at threads about the kw variant 2 coilovers, and people are surprised that the rear coils are really close together or touching. i guess they don't know how progressive springs work...
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guess what?!? my Fit is USDM!! and STOCK!
well why would you want coilovers with progressive springs... progressives are harder to deal with on track but nice on street... how much of the spring gets close?
i was just looking at it. they're too freakin expensive for me to buy.
waiting...for...koni...
dang you went to georgia nats all the way from RI in your fit knowing you had no chance?
how often to koni's have to be rebuilt?
thats not even progressive. Looks like they designed in a super soft section like a built in "helper" spring, so the spring doesnt fall out when unloaded.
nah i wasnt driving my car. I dont have r comps anymore, and i def wouldnt be competitive in fsp anymore. A friend of mine asked me to co drive for him, and truth be told he said he would have a lot more done up to the car before we went. Ah well it was an experience.
buddy clubs are 8k front 6k rear. i wonder what the balance of that is like...i'm definitely staggering tires eventually. i hope 225 toyos on rpf1's don't rub...
why is it that stock shocks wear out so fast on stiffer springs? or is it because the car is lowered?
wow i just looked at how to install koni strut cartridges...i hope they have full struts for the fit.
or i hope they come out with cartridges...so i can get the gc's early...
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guess what?!? my Fit is USDM!! and STOCK!
buddy clubs are 8k front 6k rear. i wonder what the balance of that is like...i'm definitely staggering tires eventually. i hope 225 toyos on rpf1's don't rub...
why is it that stock shocks wear out so fast on stiffer springs? or is it because the car is lowered?
wow i just looked at how to install koni strut cartridges...i hope they have full struts for the fit.
or i hope they come out with cartridges...so i can get the gc's early...
the balance wont be good. too much front spring. if you get the +45 enkeis you might be ok with rolling and trimming of the liner.
its not because it lower its because its stiffer. It makes the shock valving move way to quick forcing the shim packs to blow
my pressures are around 40...nothing wrong with my pressures...so as i said, it is the 'tpms' light, not the low tire pressure light, so there is a malfunction in the tpms system, and it's not a problem with my tire pressures, which means i still have to take it to the dealer.
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guess what?!? my Fit is USDM!! and STOCK!
my pressures are around 40...nothing wrong with my pressures...so as i said, it is the 'tpms' light, not the low tire pressure light, so there is a malfunction in the tpms system, and it's not a problem with my tire pressures, which means i still have to take it to the dealer.
ohhhhh right right. i got confused because i covered up my TPMS, because i got rid of them. FTS
Yea he beat Jinx at the Georgia nat's lol i was there. That thing is fast as hell. And yes the ST civics are "supposed" to be slower but at dixie, they were putting down 47's with that protoge running 48's with one 47. There are some fast ass civic out there with 225 R1r's and motons.
To imortal, how would the shims "in theory" weaken the hub. Only thing that could possibly happen and only with forces so strong that could only happen in a crash is flaten the plastic because it is weaker.
sorry it took so long to post
with no shims the rear "axle hub" is flush with the "trailing arm" but with shims the contact area is vastly reduced and the bolts holding the axle is subjected to non-axial forces.
picture a deck of cards laying flat on a table with 4 bolts at the corners holding down the cards to the table..this represents the axle bolted to the trailing arm.
with no shims the deck is flush with the table and the strain on the bolts is axial.
now put 1 penny each under 2 corners of the same side between the deck of cards and the table and u will notice that the deck is kinda like a ramp.
because only 1 side of the deck is "shimmed" there will be a triangular shaped gap between the deck and the table if looked at from the side, like a ramp
the bolt holes on the table will remain vertical but the bolts will be perpendicular to the deck, causing "bending" stress on the bolts
the bolts were designed to have great strength in tension (try pulling apart a straight section of a paper clip...it will be extremely difficult to pull apart a straight section of wire) compared to relatively no strength in "bending" forces (try bending a paper clip back and forth...it will break easily)
this is exactly what happens when u introduce shims between the
hub and the arm....the bolts will be strained in a fashion beyond their original design parameters, thus weakening the entire rear wheel assembly
hope this wasn't too difficult to understand without the use of pictures