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Took the fit to a local shop for a free suspension check out. It was one of those good shops, where the owner/mechanic walked around and under the car with me (their insurance company having conniptions, no doubt) and we chatted about things. Verdict was that I need new shocks and struts. Safe assumption considering they are the originals with 146k on them.
I was/am open to replacing other suspension components that are in need, but, everything else looked good to him. I snapped some photos with the iphone while under there to see what you all think. FWIW, I simply want the Fit to run as it should. Would I love to add a stiffer rear sway bar to plant myself in the corners? Sure. Do I have the cash for that right now? Nope. So, I was glad when the mechanic didn't try to upsell me on things.
He called his parts supplier while I was standing there and was quoted $600+ for shocks and struts and said the total of the job would come to $1,100 after their labor fees and shop fees for compressing the springs on the struts. Before I had a chance to react, he said "woah, that's expensive!". LOL. I asked if I could provide the parts and they provide the labor and he was fine with that. He quoted me $250 to install the shocks, struts, and change my tranny fluid.
Alternatively, I could rent a bay at a DIY garage (urdreamgarage.com) for $30/hour and do the install myself if buying complete struts. $250/$30 = 8 hours of lift time. Hmmm....
I now need to source parts. I'm currently looking at Amazon, Rock Auto, etc... and would love a bit of guidance and opinion on: loaded struts vs naked struts, manufacturers, retailers, etc...
Thanks!
Last edited by Globalksp; Aug 9, 2019 at 03:39 PM.
you won't for 1st generation, I couldn't for my 08 sport, compressing them might as well get adjustable set-up and race it, no seriiously get the better strut or one the suits you-don't cheap out now.
I post pictures of the lower control arm bushing for comparison. Yours are worn more
Control arm bushing on my car at 90K Another car around 70,000 miles
Control arm [bushings] need an attention (need to correlate with alignment reading or tire wear); I would start with them first
Outer tie rod ends? Sway bar end links
In order to judge the struts need to see a photo of the upper strut mount under hood.
Last edited by doctor J; Aug 12, 2019 at 10:09 AM.
I post pictures of the lower control arm bushing for comparison. Yours are worn more
Control arm bushing on my car at 90K
Another car around 70,000 miles
Control arm [bushings] need an attention (need to correlate with alignment reading or tire wear); I would start with them first
Outer tie rod ends? Sway bar end links
In order to judge the struts need to see a photo of the upper strut mount under hood.
+1 on what dr j says, you should prob address that control arm. most people buy a complete control arm and call it a day, I for one am a fan of bushings
Thanks for pointing out the bushing wear. See below.
I believe they are even cheaper on rock auto
Thanks for pointing out the RockAuto prices in a way even I couldn't miss. I'm a RockAuto fan, yet, for some reason missed that they are cheaper than Amazon (money is tight). Was just about to order on Amazon as well. So, thank you.
Finally, I've decided to do the work myself. I don't have a garage or tools (see my other post about moving, canyon roads, etc...). My options are, pay a shop here $250 to do the install (this was a quote I got for utilizing "quick struts") or rent a fully kitted out bay for $30/hour.
I've quit modifying my cars (sigh...), but, if I'm able to take care of things/update worn items while I'm working, I will. So, if I'll be renting that bay and have the car lifted and all the tools at my disposal, I should just get it all done. That said, I've done my fair share of work on my cars, but, I've never replaced bushings or any suspension parts outside of shocks & coil springs. I've been liking
Bushings / LCAs / Other parts to replace...
Bushings need to be pressed, right? While the shop does have a hydraulic press (the whole tool list), I'm not sure how long that would take me as I've never worked with a press. Rock Auto has the Moog front end kit for $210, but, is all that necessary?
Open to thoughts on what should be priority, what I should/could try to tackle myself, and what I should let the shop do.
These video series are for European Jazz which is different form North American Fit.
Based on my research back in March, no replacement bushings assemblies are available for GD3 (but available for -09 models)
Most aftermarket arms from online store are about $90 each
my co-worker ordered Moogs for his 97 Camry and had them for 2 years (I did the installation)
Compared to Camry The LCA job on Fit requires significantly less effort to replace done it on the junkyard (less torque) [out of state car with rusted chassis may be different]
For long term use, on the aftermarket arms , ball joints may have not enough grease for the ball joint and rubber boots tend to crack in 2 years [Toyota ball joints on my 87 Camry had original boots that outlasted bushing in control arms!]
These video series are for European Jazz which is different form North American Fit.
Based on my research back in March, no replacement bushings assemblies are available for GD3 (but available for -09 models)
Most aftermarket arms from online store are about $90 each
my co-worker ordered Moogs for his 97 Camry and had them for 2 years (I did the installation)
Compared to Camry The LCA job on Fit requires significantly less effort to replace done it on the junkyard (less torque) [out of state car with rusted chassis may be different]
For long term use, on the aftermarket arms , ball joints may have not enough grease for the ball joint and rubber boots tend to crack in 2 years [Toyota ball joints on my 87 Camry had original boots that outlasted bushing in control arms!]
You think the Jazz & Fit suspensions differ greatly? I did find this DIY thread from this forum which I'll be following.
I think I'm going to leave most of the other suspension components alone. I'll be changing the shocks, struts, strut mounts, and sway bar bushings.
Anyone have any opinions on replacing the strut boots/bellows. I'm not even sure if my current struts have the boots on anymore, but, I ordered them just to be "safe" (the rubber Mevotech versions, not the poly Moog/KYB's).
Ordered from Rock Auto...
Last edited by Globalksp; Aug 13, 2019 at 02:16 PM.
Hi guys, new here. Just got an 07 Base MT w/ 80k miles. Great thread, just ordered the rear struts to do first and then plan to tackle the front. thanks!
and for the lca bushings, most automotive shops will have a loan-a-tool program. see if they have something that you can use, to press out the bushings. I was lucky enough, to have a buddy who lived nearby who owns a cheap (but got the job done) harbor freight hydraulic press
Sway bar end links has to be checked as well (open the door , use it as a lever and rock the car up and down); clunking noise indicates bad link
And yes LCA for GD1 and GD3 are different (as well as removal methods! (Fit is easier)
Moog does make problem solvers endlinks for our cars - I installed them in mine - and they are indeed SOOO much nicer to work with than the oem-style with that hex broach 😤
those autodoc videos from YouTube are great but damn, I wish all the fasteners on my car broke loose so easily...lol. I had to cut my endlinks and rear shocks out....New England life..it really is a very easy car to work oo though.
the boot/bellows is pretty easy to remove/swap. There’s a bushing that fits inside the boot and it all sits inside the strut top mount - you’ll see when you take it apart.
Parts should arrive today, but, I’m en route to the airport for a two week trip. Which means, more time to order more parts!
Will chime back in on this thread when it comes time to start working.
Also, Dr J...if you have any interest in checking out this DIY garage in Baldwin Park, let me know and I’ll let you know when I’m planning to be there.
(less torque) [out of state car with rusted chassis may be different]
