I have a 2007 Honda Fit- I have a PO301 trouble code, check engine light came on, now off.
Questions- should I swap coil from cylinder 1 with cylinder 2 and see if the trouble code changes to P0302?
Should I change the coil and spark plug or just the coil?
Should I do all of the coils or change as i go along?
I've read not to purchase cheap coil packs. Is there a brand I should buy for this car?
Thx to all with experience in this matter.
Merry Christmas!!

 

The OEM coil pack is the Hitachi IGC0053 - $34 on RockAuto. This is the one highly recommended on this forum.
I'm a newbie and you should wait for more experienced folks to address your question...but this is a common issue with this car, and plugs / coils / valve clearance are the typical solutions.
I just replaced the coils on my 2008 yesterday, due to misfiring at idle, although with no CEL. I did all 4 at once. Problem solved. Super easy job.

 

Appreciate it, thx for your help!

 

Has anyone experienced a P0301 Code, than a week later a P0302 code than a P0300 code?
I didn't get a chance to replace the ignition coil for the first CEL code, than all of a sudden these other two codes came up. Could it be that the coil packs are slowly failing at the same time or are the new codes coming on because of the P0301 code? Thx!

 

When was the last valve adjustment?

When was the last time the spark plugs were changed with Denso or NGK Iridium plugs properly gapped?

99% of problems in a GD Fit can be fixed with the correct spark plugs (changed every 50-60k miles), a valve adjustment (every 60k), and Hitachi or Denso ignition coils. Added to that, the coils generally don't fail unless one of the other two items have been neglected.

 

So we purchased the vehicle a year ago. Not sure the last time the valves were adjusted. Mileage is 104k. I've read up on that. I was unaware the codes coming up on the coils could be due to the valves needing adjustment. I pulled the spark plugs and they looked clean- DENSO IK20L Ridium Power, checked gap, they were correct.
I replaced cylinder 1 coil today and cleared the codes. I'm glad you commented on the valve adjustment. I'm assuming if the codes come back it's the valves causing the codes? I'm confused on that. Thx!
Anthony

 

You probably didn't even need to replace that coil. Keep it for the future. Chances are really good that it's never had a valve adjustment and that is what is needed.

Edit - you say the gap is correct. Is it at .040" or larger. Spec is .052", but that is too large. If it's even a tiny bit over that, it's really too large of a gap.

Good news is that, once the required maintenance is done, these cars last forever.

 

Ok, yes-will be doing valve adjustment, will follow up with results. Thx for your help!

 

What do you suggest for the correct spark plug gap? thx

 

.040 - .044"

Also worth noting that IK20L is not a factory plug. I'm not sure what the L on the end denotes. I run IK22's in ours, but that's also not the OEM plug.

 

great information, thank you. Do you know the correct OEM plug? THX!
ANTHONY

 

NGK 6774, NGK 97138, Denso 4702, and Denso 3401 are all listed as compatible.

My plug of choice is the Denso IK22. It's one step colder and will make a little more power if you care.

The NGK 6774 is the OEM plug.

 

ok great, I had no idea. I appreciate this info. Have a great weekend!

 

So I began the dismantling of the top parts of the motor. While taking of.f the air box this rubber seal fell off the intake... any idea how it goes back on correctly? Thx

 

If I recall correctly, the orientation you're holding it in the second picture is the correct one. That extra bit of rubber on the one side ensures you can't put it together wrong. It's part #10 here:

 

This is exactly what I needed! Thank you. And I just wanted to point out to everybody thank you for all your help! I was able to adjust the valves, I found that the exhaust side were all way too tight, some of the intake needed adjustment but it was really the exhaust valves. It runs the same so I can’t really tell until I fill up the gas tank and check on gas mileage. I just replaced one of the coils so I’m leaving the new one in but I do believe that the valve adjustment was causing the check engine lights to come on, or I should say the lack of the valves being adjusted caused the Check engine lights to come on. This forum is awesome! I’m happy to help anyone who has questions on this project. Definitely a DIY, I bought the feeler gauges on Amazon, I definitely recommend getting the ones that have a bend in it so that you can sneak the gauge easily. Again thanks for the help and I’m all set!

 

Nice, glad it helped.

 

The elongated holes an the rubber part are matching the teeth on the plastic intake, so it only goes one way

 

perfect, got it, thank you!!

 

To me, it looks like one individual Hitachi IGC0053 coil is $31 on rockauto. It doesn't look like they offer a coil pack. Is this correct? If not, can you provide a link to the coil pack?