Recently acquired a 2006 Honda Jazz/Fit from Japan. It is the 1.3L i-DSI model (GD1) with auto transmission. A few mtce questions for anyone who may happen to have experience or been able to find the info online...

1. What is the appropriate (default) engine oil weight for this vehicle. The manual (which is all in Japanese) seems to note 3 or 4 different weights. I put 10w30 in, however, not certain it is the most appropriate for medium climates.
   
2. What is the transmission fluid story with this vehicle? I have pieced together a bit of information from various sources but not sure it is correct/complete. It sounds like these gen 1 Jazz/Fits started with regular ATF, however, when problems arose with the CVT (I think it is one of the first cars Honda setup with a CVT), Honda either developed or decided to recommend their CVTF (CVT Fluid) for the vehicles. So I go to my Honda dealer and they have 2 types of Honda CVT fluid - the original CVTF and a newer one called HCF-2. Which one is appropriate for the 2006 Jazz/Fit? I used the CVTF - hope I got it right.
   
3. Spark plugs - anyone happen to know the appropriate plugs for this vehicle - I assume Denso or NGK - guess I could take them out and look, however, it may just have a Japan part number that I can't match here. Iridium or no - which is the way to go?

Thank you for any/all advise offered.

 

1. For the 1.5L in the US its 5w-20. The 1.3 should be the same block just smaller stroke. Since you are Canada check how cold it gets in your area and compare it to an oil viscosity chart. They sold Fits in Canada in 07/08 see if you can find a Canadian manual.
2. Don't know as North America got the geared autos
3. Any brand is fine as long it's the right specs

 

I also have a 2006 JDM GD1 with the L13A i-DSI and CVT.

1. For engine oil for your climate, see the oil viscosity chart here (click the first graphic button). The Japanese owner's manual recommends 0W-20 for best fuel economy, though I typically use 5W-30.

2. Yes, Honda CVTF is the updated, correct fluid for these. Note the slightly finicky procedure for checking the level. Mine had the common juddering problem which was resolved with a stall test or two to burnish the start clutch, a fluid change, and some Xado Revitalizant EX120.

3. Spark plugs are Denso K20PR-U11 or NGK BKR6E-11, 1.0-1.1 mm spark gap, and note that there are eight of them. Not precious metal types. I found I had to replace them after only 17,000 km after it developed an occasional hesitation.

Best of luck with your Fit!

 

Also, if you're changing the spark plugs, note that the service manual specifies to use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads and torque to 18 N m (13 foot pound force, 159 inch pound force).

 

Thanks for the info. I do have the japanese manual which came with the care. Of course cannot read 95% of it, however, towards the back of the manual there is a little table that shows oil weights across different termperatures. Unfortunately, it shows 4 different oil weights. One line on the graph shows a temp range of -30 to +40 and notes oil weights of 0w20, 5w30 and 5w40. A second line on the graph of temp ranges shows 10w30 for -20 to +40. I put 10w30 in, however, the more I read online that isn't what people seem to be using.

 

Thank you for the feedback. As I noted in my response to the previous, my japanese manual seems to recommend 4 different oil weights based on temp ranges. I used 10w30 but I don't see many/any people saying that is what they use - so not sure if I have it right.
Can I ask what the stall test is. I did 3 drains/fills of the fluid (replaycing about 3.3L per). Thinking about doing a couple more. The shuddering is much better if not non-existent now. I ordered myself the plugs - the Denso (unfortunately need 8 for this engine). Thanks for the tip on anti seize - will definitely do that.

 

For the manual, you can use google translate app, then click camera and hold it over the page you want translated.

 

I'd run M1 0w-20 honestly given the info

 

Thanks, i tried this - works quite well

 

According to the chart, the 10W-30 should be fine unless your winter ambient temperatures go below -20°C. AIUI, these engines have simple mechanical valvetrains so they aren't too fussy about exact oil viscosity (though they do need periodic adjustment).

The CVT stall test is a diagnostic procedure which can reveal certain problems with the powertrain, but it's also mentioned in service bulletins as a method for burnishing the start clutch surfaces to improve grip (apparently the old fluid can accumulate moisture which causes glazing of the clutch plates). Some people (myself included) report good results with Xado Revitalizant additive (and it's cheaper than another jug of CVTF!).