I tried to install the Weapon-R street header today, but I couldn't get the stock header out. I was able to disconnect the bottom part (the part that converges into one pipe) and the O2 sensor. I was able to get 2 of the 5 nuts off from the engine block (the 2 closest to the passenger side). I couldn't get a breaker bar or anything else behind the engine to get the rest of the bolts out. How do you do it??

Please help me. I need some suggestions before tomorrow at 9am PST. I'm going to my friend's place again tomorrow to try again, assuming you can help!

Thanks.

 

i get them out with a breaker bar. I think you are talking about the 3 top bolts? those I used a universal with a 24" breaker bar. Once done, pull the header out the top

 

Yeah, the 5 top bolts. OK, I'll try to get a breaker bar in there. Struggled with it for about an hour today with no luck, but maybe tomorrow will be different. Thanks pal.

 

use PB blaster for like 15 minutes of saturation, then try to get those bolts loosen again with a breaker bar. make sure the force you put on the bar is gentle slow and not jerky and hard. just a precaution so the bolts dont break on you (if that's possible)


edit: i personally used a regular socket wrench with socket extension. put it on the hard to reach bolt, then i slid on a 1.5 foot pipe. the range of movement will be very very very minimal.. less than 5 inches.

 

That's a good idea. I used WD-40 today. I'll pick up some PB before I start tomorrow.

 

PB blaster is ur BEST friend. spray it on and let it sit for 15 minutes it will come off with no effort at all. I used a breaker bar from the top to remove all 5 bolts. Then i removed the two cat bolts from the bottom of the car and slid it out the top of the car.

 

i have PB Blast..never needed it on header bolts though. Not much corrosion up there. But yeah...all of the bolts are accessible from the top witha breaker bar.

 

I used one of those longer 10" 'tilting head' socket wrenches with a short extension. Gave me enough room, leverage, and angle from the top to reach those bolts easily.
Good luck.

 

sweet, thanks for the advice, guys. i'll give the PB blaster a try tomorrow and hopefully have it put on in about an hour.

 

Definitely PB Blaster, leverage of some sort, and lots of elbow grease. The first time I took off the header it took me hours because I didn't use anything decent for leverage, that is until I used a vacuum cleaner extension tube and went nuts with it.

 

use a rachet and socket and hit the end of the rachet with a small hammer a few times cause the constant vibration help take the bolts/nuts right off.

 

ill just say what has already been said in this thread. leverage and PB are your friend but watch out. the top bolts have a stud that goes into the block. i used so much leverage, that i just ended up screwing out the whole stud!

 

I want to thank everyone for their help. I used some Liquid Wrench and those bolts came right out.

Now, the Weapon-R header doesn't have any places to bolt on the stock heat shield. Do I need to worry about running with no heat shield? Someone told me if the header gets too hot, it will vaporize the gas in the gas lines and cause the engine to sputter and knock. Has anyone had this problem?

 

i used stainless steel zip ties i ordered off ebay to secure the heat shield to the header. without the heatshield it did feel a bit toasty, not sure if it will vaporize things though.

 

No you won't vaporize anything, I have been running my DC header for about 20K miles without a single issue (and no heat shield) The SS zip ties sounds like a good idea as long as they don't vibrate loose, the rattling from behind the engine would drive me bonkers!

 

gas vaporizes when exposed to oxygen no matter how hot it gets.

running without a heat shield will warm your brake lines a little more and possibly the coil packs but it is nothing to worry about.

 

I busted mine loose with a regular ratchet and socket. I really wanted to use the cheater, but couldn't find it. I also ended up removing the whole stud on one of them. If that happens, just take it out. I didn't remove the nut, even. I just put it back in on the new header.

I bought a special ratchet with an elbow action and telescoping handle because of this.

 

should spray the bolts with wd-40 and let it sit there for a minute... It'll help you out

 

OK so now that I have the header in, I'm hearing a knocking or rattle when I drive. I checked for exhaust leaks and tightened everything down but I'm still getting this noise. It really just sounds like a rattle, like the exhaust pipe is banging on a piece of metal, but I can't find any points of contact. It doesn't make the noise when I accelerate, just when I'm going at a constant speed or slowing. I was thinking maybe it's just the sound of the engine firing, but if that was the case, I should hear it when I'm accelerating, right? Or is this just the sound a header makes?

 

what you have to do is drive around until the car gets hot. then park it and wait until the engine is cold and re-check all the bolts and nuts. the header will expand before it settles and thus the weird noises.