Ok so I had a judder at 57K when I pulled off 90% of the time and the dealer said that the previous owner had damaged the cliuth and we had heat damage. So I spent $1100 for a new clutch from the Honda dealer and for 2K was perfect then went back to what it was before.

Its like the clutch "has no action" and is either on or off. Now they are saying it could be the fatter tires that the previous owner put on that the clutch wasnt designed for.. Any ideas ?

I have driven stick for 30 yrs and never burned out a clutch before. They have had it now since Thursday and no sign of it - any idea whats happening ?

 

Sounds like a lot of bull shit. I'd take it to another dealer

 

Something doesn't add up - they're passing it off on mods to the car, but certainly their last reason just doesn't cut it, they repaired you car and they didn't do good job at it. How's the dealer knowing what the previous owner did, unless they sold you the car in the first place, or did you buy private? Hold them to correcting their mistake - if you go elsewhere you start all over again $$$'s.

You paid them to fix your ride - they took your money but really didn't fix your ride.

 

I have a 2007 Fit sport with 56K on it and have the same issue. I bought the car used with 3500km on it and it started doing it about 5000K. I took the car into Honda several times with the complaint and they never found anything wrong with the clutch. They told me to rev the engine to a higher RPM to start in 1st. I kind of figured that was so I would heat the clutch and they wouldn't warranty it. After 6 visits I gave up. The tech did slip to me that in the old Preludes they had clutch chatter issues that they never resolved and it sounds like the same issue. I find it worse in the winter and on cold days. I have just decided to live with it and when the clutch goes we will replace it with a high performance after market. I love the car but give up on Honda service in Calgary.

 

I've had the same problem since I bought my fit new in 07. The dealership just tells me "nothing's wrong with it". I know that's BS because it feels like no other car I've ever driven.

I've just learned to live with it and I'm at 60k. I'll just replace it with a decent clutch when the time comes. The clutch feel on my car is the only problem I have really, and it really bothers me sometimes but I can't get them to admit anything's wrong so I live with it until I need to yank it out.

 

that's called wheel hop people
if it's the clutch, you would have the problem in the opposite gear i.e 5th
stiffer engine mounts will make a vast improvement, almost totally eliminate it
there are some disadvantages to stiffer mounts though....but worth it

 

I can't speak for anyone else here but the problem I'm dealing with is not wheel hop at all. Just a crappy feeling clutch.

 

It's a combo of the clutch material and the crappy soft motor mounts. The honda clutch is a bit grabby when cold and when it does, the motor starts bouncing back and forth, and the two feed each other.

Only fix I can think of is 1) aftermarket clutch 2) buzz-your-teeth-off motor mounts.

If I drive the car TOO nice, it'll glaze the clutch and get REAL chattery. A 5-min curvy road run with lots and lots of downshifting usually cures it for maybe, oh 3 months or so (although I can't recommend that for everyone, some get overeager and warp the flywheel or blow the pressure plate).

Much like my old man's story of putting the '50 ford's bumper up against a tree and smoking the clutch for a few seconds to "break it in." Haha those were the days. Toilet paper oil filters and stump clutch smokin'.

 

^ x2

i'll throw in: on top of the clutch material, pressure plates are getting softer and softer which will lead to judder with a clutch compound that is too grabby for the amount of pressure...

i wish there were motor mount inserts like the prothane ones... cheap too...

 

For the original problem that was listed above, when they changed your clutch theyre supposed to "re-surface" the flywheel just like when you change your brake pads and have to resurface the rotors....its the same concept. when you change the clutch the new clutch has a brand new "mating surface" so if you re-use the old flywheel that had the jacked up surface to begin with...then nothing would have changed, you just get a brand new clutch with a crappy flywheel resulting in crazy chatter that makes your dash jump. Thats why when you change your clutch theyre supposed to tell you to "break in" the new clutch for the first 500+ miles if they didnt tell you that then chances are they didnt change/re-surface the flywheel...sorry