problems with engine stuttering/cutting out
#21
Valve adjustment is a wear item and needs to adjusted when needed. The problem is when. Coil problems should throw a code so you can diagnosis it but many say it wont throw a code. Might have some thing to do with the ecu is capable of working in limp mode and not throwing codes because of a back up processor. I wonder if resetting the ecu by disconnecting the battery will show the problems then? Tech - ECU Anatomy OBD I I know it says it should go on but for some reason it dont in the new cars.
#22
Valve adjustment is a wear item and needs to adjusted when needed. The problem is when. Coil problems should throw a code so you can diagnosis it but many say it wont throw a code. Might have some thing to do with the ecu is capable of working in limp mode and not throwing codes because of a back up processor. I wonder if resetting the ecu by disconnecting the battery will show the problems then? Tech - ECU Anatomy OBD I I know it says it should go on but for some reason it dont in the new cars.
lakersql/la
#23
Sure, but we spent that $15 every 10,000 miles and back then pizza was fifty cents a slice.
#24
cheers.
#26
Yeah but not at 40,000 miles. My dealer told me I don't have to do anything to my car until 100,000 miles except change the oil every 5,000. No problems yet so anything else is under warranty so why not let them fix it with OEM parts instead of aftermarket? I've had my car for 4 years now.
Your dealer 'sold' you.
Anytime after 30,000 miles. Read your maintenance manual. Honda and other warranty's have a maintenance schedule that is outside the warranty that owner is responsible. Don't do it and you may not have a warranty claim. Spark plugs, brake pads, and coil paks are part of those. The deasler/Honda is responsible ONLY for those items in the maintenance warranty.
Your only hope is to base your claim for repairs on the federal 50,000 miles emissions requrement, and a cogniscent dealer knows plugs and coil paks are maintenance; owbner is required to maintain the car per mnaintenace required by the 'book'.
#29
Sorry comp locked up well I got fucked they say its valve adjustment not coil packs 40000 miles on and no hard running so called America Honda and said well we have to back our dealers my deal is that its faulty wiring/electrical witch should be a recall well she said if do valve and still then they will help but I know ill get the old well url dint maintain ur car spill FML the coil pack ruined my CAR!!!!
WHAT SHOULD U DO
TO COIL OR NOT TO COIL :'(
WHAT SHOULD U DO
TO COIL OR NOT TO COIL :'(
#30
here u go miss megan. It's been covered and lots of people have had the same problem. DON'T go to the dealership there gonna charge you an arm and leg to get it diagnosed since ur already out of warranty.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...d-stutter.html
Just find out which cylinders coil packs are misfiring and replace those ones. U can get them from bernardiparts.com for pretty cheap. I had to replace 3 of mine at 45000 miles. Now i'm almost at 100,000 miles and there still running strong!
What i recommend doing is taking your car to pep boys. Tell them that you are having some kind of misfire in a couple of the cylinders. They will run a FREE check for you.. YES FREE! Just have them run the test and they will tell u "oh cylinder 1 and 2 are misfiring." After that, just take ur car home and order 2 coil packs. DO NOT let pep boys fix your car, they will replace the spark plugs only and charge u $50 and u will STILL have the same problem! It's not the spark plugs, it's the coil packs!
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...d-stutter.html
Just find out which cylinders coil packs are misfiring and replace those ones. U can get them from bernardiparts.com for pretty cheap. I had to replace 3 of mine at 45000 miles. Now i'm almost at 100,000 miles and there still running strong!
What i recommend doing is taking your car to pep boys. Tell them that you are having some kind of misfire in a couple of the cylinders. They will run a FREE check for you.. YES FREE! Just have them run the test and they will tell u "oh cylinder 1 and 2 are misfiring." After that, just take ur car home and order 2 coil packs. DO NOT let pep boys fix your car, they will replace the spark plugs only and charge u $50 and u will STILL have the same problem! It's not the spark plugs, it's the coil packs!
#32
We're not on hand to diagnose your problem and it doesn't sound like the dealer is interested in anything but $.(surprised?)
So you have to help yourself - by buying a OBD II testerer or going to an auto place that will do it for you - and not many will.
They cost about $50 at most parts houses and it will save you a lot more beginning now.
I rather doubt that valve clearance is the problem but it can be a contributor. More likely its the plugs and coil paks. They don't last forever and 50,000 miles is pretty much their life. Some fail at even 30,000 miles and some at 80,000 but most at around 50,000 miles.
So you MUST help yourself by buying or borrowing a OBD tester and by their easy instructions run the codes, check their manual and determine yourself just whats wrong. then go tell the mechanic what to fix. Some customers have 12 year olds who it expertly.
PS read your Fit maintance requirements, too.
So you have to help yourself - by buying a OBD II testerer or going to an auto place that will do it for you - and not many will.
They cost about $50 at most parts houses and it will save you a lot more beginning now.
I rather doubt that valve clearance is the problem but it can be a contributor. More likely its the plugs and coil paks. They don't last forever and 50,000 miles is pretty much their life. Some fail at even 30,000 miles and some at 80,000 but most at around 50,000 miles.
So you MUST help yourself by buying or borrowing a OBD tester and by their easy instructions run the codes, check their manual and determine yourself just whats wrong. then go tell the mechanic what to fix. Some customers have 12 year olds who it expertly.
PS read your Fit maintance requirements, too.
Last edited by mahout; 09-30-2011 at 01:32 PM.
#33
We're not on hand to diagnose your problem and it doesn't sound like the dealer is interested in anything but $.(surprised?)
So you have to help yourself - by buying a OBD II testerer or going to an auto place that will do it for you - and not many will.
They cost about $50 at most parts houses and it will save you a lot more beginning now.
I rather doubt that valve clearance is the problem but it can be a contributor. More likely its the plugs and coil paks. They don't last forever and 50,000 miles is pretty much their life. Some fail at even 30,000 miles and some at 80,000 but most at around 50,000 miles.
So you MUST help yourself by buying or borrowing a OBD tester and by their easy instructions run the codes, check their manual and determine yourself just whats wrong. then go tell the mechanic what to fix. Some customers have 12 year olds who it expertly.
PS read your Fit maintance requirements, too.
So you have to help yourself - by buying a OBD II testerer or going to an auto place that will do it for you - and not many will.
They cost about $50 at most parts houses and it will save you a lot more beginning now.
I rather doubt that valve clearance is the problem but it can be a contributor. More likely its the plugs and coil paks. They don't last forever and 50,000 miles is pretty much their life. Some fail at even 30,000 miles and some at 80,000 but most at around 50,000 miles.
So you MUST help yourself by buying or borrowing a OBD tester and by their easy instructions run the codes, check their manual and determine yourself just whats wrong. then go tell the mechanic what to fix. Some customers have 12 year olds who it expertly.
PS read your Fit maintance requirements, too.
#34
The post I read said you 'read' with a scan gauge. Try an Actron. If you get no reading there is something more important wrong and it could be your ECM. Perhaps you should have an independent mechainic familiar with OBD code reading use their OBD code reader.
Last edited by mahout; 09-30-2011 at 08:53 PM.
#35
Indulge me for a moment to pile on with my sob story about my only slightly mistreated Fit with a stuttering engine. My 2008 Fit has 158,000 miles [crazy long commute that I'd rather not have to explain], and the engine has been stuttering a little bit since about 110,000 miles, mostly while cruising in the 2400-2500 rpm range. I had the spark plugs changed at 101,000 [I just called the garage to check their service records]. The engine stutter has recently become much more prominent, sapping virtually all power when accelerating from a stop or near stop.
So, Google lead me here, and I've been under the impression that its the spark plugs and/or coil pack[s]. But, what I've not been able to find a correlation to via Google is the much-documented engine stutter with ODB-II codes P1172 and P2A00, which first popped up about 25,000 miles ago. The only reason I've been slack about not having that taken care of is the horror stories from other people that have tried to get a dealership no-service dept to admit the existence of their own service bulletin to update the GD software.
Anyways, I've been able to mitigate the stutter a little bit by using 93 octane. But, I'm now being told that this points away from a spark plug issue because [the story goes] higher octane gas requires a hotter spark that a spark plug unable to reliably ignite 87 octane would have an even harder time igniting. Am I being fed a line of bull?
More importantly, how closely linked are my check engine codes with the engine stutter?
So, Google lead me here, and I've been under the impression that its the spark plugs and/or coil pack[s]. But, what I've not been able to find a correlation to via Google is the much-documented engine stutter with ODB-II codes P1172 and P2A00, which first popped up about 25,000 miles ago. The only reason I've been slack about not having that taken care of is the horror stories from other people that have tried to get a dealership no-service dept to admit the existence of their own service bulletin to update the GD software.
Anyways, I've been able to mitigate the stutter a little bit by using 93 octane. But, I'm now being told that this points away from a spark plug issue because [the story goes] higher octane gas requires a hotter spark that a spark plug unable to reliably ignite 87 octane would have an even harder time igniting. Am I being fed a line of bull?
More importantly, how closely linked are my check engine codes with the engine stutter?
#36
That is a lot of miles. When was the last time you change the fuel filter? O2s are made to last to 110000 miles at most. They usually start going at 50000 miles and when it gets out of bounds it throws a code. I would replace the fuel filter and reset the ecu and clear codes. The O2's also need to be replaced but replacing the fuel filter should restore some power. Here is a link to the codes. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...odes-list.html
#37
On average it 50000 around here. I had to replace 1 o2 on the van at 100,000 miles and my dad replace all 4 twice in his Toyota Avalon with 100,000 miles. They are suppose to last to 110,000 now. Most of the time the resetting of the ecu and clearing codes the problem goes away for a while. That problem pops up in the spring and fall due to fuel changes.
#38
Indulge me for a moment to pile on with my sob story about my only slightly mistreated Fit with a stuttering engine. My 2008 Fit has 158,000 miles [crazy long commute that I'd rather not have to explain], and the engine has been stuttering a little bit since about 110,000 miles, mostly while cruising in the 2400-2500 rpm range. I had the spark plugs changed at 101,000 [I just called the garage to check their service records]. The engine stutter has recently become much more prominent, sapping virtually all power when accelerating from a stop or near stop.
So, Google lead me here, and I've been under the impression that its the spark plugs and/or coil pack[s]. But, what I've not been able to find a correlation to via Google is the much-documented engine stutter with ODB-II codes P1172 and P2A00, which first popped up about 25,000 miles ago. The only reason I've been slack about not having that taken care of is the horror stories from other people that have tried to get a dealership no-service dept to admit the existence of their own service bulletin to update the GD software.
Anyways, I've been able to mitigate the stutter a little bit by using 93 octane. But, I'm now being told that this points away from a spark plug issue because [the story goes] higher octane gas requires a hotter spark that a spark plug unable to reliably ignite 87 octane would have an even harder time igniting. Am I being fed a line of bull?
More importantly, how closely linked are my check engine codes with the engine stutter?
So, Google lead me here, and I've been under the impression that its the spark plugs and/or coil pack[s]. But, what I've not been able to find a correlation to via Google is the much-documented engine stutter with ODB-II codes P1172 and P2A00, which first popped up about 25,000 miles ago. The only reason I've been slack about not having that taken care of is the horror stories from other people that have tried to get a dealership no-service dept to admit the existence of their own service bulletin to update the GD software.
Anyways, I've been able to mitigate the stutter a little bit by using 93 octane. But, I'm now being told that this points away from a spark plug issue because [the story goes] higher octane gas requires a hotter spark that a spark plug unable to reliably ignite 87 octane would have an even harder time igniting. Am I being fed a line of bull?
More importantly, how closely linked are my check engine codes with the engine stutter?
#39
It might not be the coil packs. I've never had that problem with all my Honda's. Its good to reset the ecu a few times a year. Coil problems should produce a misfire code and it can be a lot of problems. p1172 is a fuel pump problem which could be a fuel filter clogged that caused the pump to go out and a P2A00 is a slow responding O2. Resetting the ecu and erasing the codes after checking for air leaks and installing a new fuel filter should work unless the O2 is gone. This way you know for sure with out replacing everything.