Yes, I dont think all the problems that get blamed on coil packs is the coil packs. The 2 codes in question p1172 and p2a00 can be a lot of things. I have seen the p1172 being the throttle body to fuel pump. More info is need about the car with 158000 miles to see if the fuel filter was replaced. I used to reset the ecu a few times a year and that seems to help with driveability problems. The P2a00 is a slow response 02 which can be caused by a vacuum leak and resetting and erasing the ecu codes would bring that issue back if it was a problem. My point is to look for air leaks and replace the filter and go from there. It could be the EGR and Map sensor too. The Honda ecu has a back up processor that could hide the real problem.

My dad is having a problem with his car with a lean 02 and I reset the ecu and took it on the highway and the problem is gone for now. I think its the MAF in my dads case but the 08 Fits dont have one.

 

I thought it was that that was my first choices but then got valve adjusted and still was sputtering around 2000 to 3000 rpm so they switched coils and bam fixed .
My issue is that I think its a lack of electric current or too much for the coils I live in SO CALI and I fell like the heat is helping to drain the packs or wires quicker Idk but if I have to rechange them at 80000 miles then that's it
I love my fit and want this issue to end

 

The issue of heat being the cause of coil failure could be the heat from the exhaust manifold or from the sparkplug itself... If it is the plugs a colder plug that dissipates more heat from the combustion chamber would expedite failure.. Most of the coil failures I have experienced have been on vertical twin British motorcycles that were well known for high intensity vibration.. No one has ever acknowledged what the octane level of fuel that they have used in their cars but it is my opinion that the harsh combustion from the use of the lowest recommended fuel octane level of 87 compared to higher octane fuel could be the cause of coil failure being that the coil packs are sitting directly at the top of the combustion chamber on top of the spark plugs... 80,000 miles isn't all that bad for the expense of new coil packs but a lot of people don't get that many miles on their cars before the need to replace them rears it's expensive ugly head... I am at 39,000 on my car that has always been fueled with premium fuel and has been supercharged for over half of the miles on it... I also have used colder heat range plugs along with the boost and changed the plugs twice since buying the car new in July 2006... I would really like to know what octane level fuel is being used in the cars that are having early coil failure and who that is using premium fuel only has had coil failure... I have expressed this numerous times when this issue arises but there has never been a response either way... I know that with 10 PSI boost and summer temperatures of over 100 degrees, as high as 117 for over 70 days this year and close to that every summer for 5 years even with the low mileage that I have accumulated, heat alone is not the problem... There is a reluctance of people that have had to replace the coils on their cars to respond to the octane level of the fuel is that they use... It might be helpful to everyone if this question was answered.

 

Ive used 87 since day 1 and not added anyting to the motor or performance
but some what had a stuttering around 30,000 then when got to 40,000 started hitting harder((bought off lot in 07)) i tried to put high octane and after that im guessing my cylinder 4 coilpack died cuz it was hitting hard. the dealership was positive it was the valves but i had mentioned coilpacks after a check they changed the coil. im still thinking that its fualtiy wiring... still waiting to hear from American Honda if any recalls but for now just using 87 octane and switching coil packs. i also travel quite a distance for work and been in traffic for about 20min in the heat daily so idk

im even interested in looking to rap my intake/cam with a heat resistant cover seen other models done but don't know how much and if this coil issue will end. i just hope its not something drastic or major.

will keep posted.

 

I appreciate your response to my fuel question.. Coil pack failure has been an issue for a couple of years or more and yet Honda dealers always want to adjust the valves which is always followed by them replacing the coil packs... Generally when there is a small break in a spark plug wire or coil it is only noticed when the engine is under load and not at idle except intermittently at most.. If the break is in the coil and the ends of the broken winding burns or vibrates further apart leaving a gap to wide for the current to jump there is no spark going to the spark plug of the cylinder the coil is sitting over and that causes a 25% loss of power that results in the other cylinders having to make up for the loss and higher combustion chamber temperatures.. The ignition timing will be pulling back on timing advance when there is an increased load on the working cylinders to prevent too much heat from building up in them and lower power even more so the problem becomes progressively worse... The neat thing is that the engine control unit prevents damage from occurring but it seems that all of the coils go bad at about the same time.. What SilverBullet said about pulling off the ground cable from the battery when there is a code thrown or the check engine light comes on is something I do on occasion when I hook up a charger to my battery to lengthen the battery life.. Not only has my battery lasted since I got my car 60 months ago but it helps the ECU to adjust to you current driving habits and climate conditions... I have read of someone on this forum that used DEI ReflectAGold heat reflecting tape on their coils to prolong the life of them and I have recently put the same stuff on an sheet aluminum Weapon R intake manifold to prevent an increase in the intake air temperature more for an improvement in performance than anything else.. I used much less costly aluminum foil backed adhesive foam on the intake and boost tubes too and from the supercharger to the stock engine intake manifold which is plastic and doesn't transfer heat as much as a metal one does.. I can tell I am rambling on, sorry about that... Thank you though for the info on the grade of fuel that you've been using, no on else has ever responded to the question.

 

Very nice write up Dee, just need to add oil and weight too. It is relevant to the car running condition along with the gasoline to get a better idea of operating conditions. Driving style too would be the other if lots of city or all Highway.

 

I'll check the service records, but I don't think its been replaced.

The only follow-up I can give here is that I have stopped buying generic brand discount gas [in north Georgia, that would be RaceTrac and QuickTrip]. Understand that I go through a tank of gas in about two days. Anyways, the issue of the really bad engine stuttering has mostly been mitigated since I stopped buying discount gas. Not completely resolved, but at least it no longer stalls at railroad crossings, or hesitates when pulling away from short-line-of-sight intersections.

 

Both P1172 and P2A00 indicate a faulty A/F ratio sensor in my Honda manual. P1172 indicates reading out of range high and P2A00 indicates A/F sensor or readings faulty. (p11-12 and 13). Check Pg 11-78 for how easy the replacement and that is the first thing to do.
Disconnecting the battery is not the best way to reset OBD readings and be aware that however yiou reset it takes as much as 200 miles for the system to come back on line; til then its working on pre-set factory settings.

 

P0172 is a rich mixture 02, but the P1172 - Fuel Transfer Pump Flow Insufficient. (fuel filter, fuel restriction)
P2A00 - HO2S Circuit Closed Loop (CL) Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1 (PCM). Resetting the codes can only be done with a OBDII scanner. Having the Pa200 is a ecu problem. resetting the ecu is a good way to unleash the problem holding back the right sensor causing the problem. It even could be a bad map in the ecu and they recommend resetting the ecu every season change. 200 miles is a little long for the 5 codes to set but in theory it takes a year for all the different conditions the car adjusts and goes through.

New readings now lead me to blame carbon for most of the problems. I am still reading about that but I never had a carbon problem using Shell,BP premium gas.

 

Replace the fuel filter. Glad to here the problem is better.

 

now I'm at 131,500 & right atm I'm misfiring. I changed the plugs back in February & until november, everything was jsut fine, I guess its at that mileage to where you have to pay a bit more attention to it, even though it's regularly maintained.

 

Have you changed the coil paks? Or checked OBD II readings?

 

hi there everyone

 

ODB got checked & yes is was a coilpack. It had a crack in it & put some epoxy stuff on the crack & its running fine atm

 

I had a problem with the wife's car this morning. Rough idle and just off idle misses or stutter if you want to call it that. It ran OK at higher rpms. I but the trans in 3rd gear and drove it at 55 at 4000 rpms for 2 miles and the stutter went away. I am blaming this on carbon deposits. Second fill up getting 22 mpg which I am mad at. Going to buy fuel injection cleaner and see if that helps. I am going to try to find Redline Fuel injection cleaner because you dont have to use the whole bottle.

 

Update, Car runs great now. Fuel injection cleaner on standby but I have a to have a few words to say to the dealer. They did not fill the tires correctly after saying they did and notice the battery red cover up so that the hood prop was a 1/2 inch from the terminal. I also got a notice a few days ago saying that they want the car and can give me a deal because the need 2010 cars. I smell foul play esp. after I already talked to some one and told them not now because I owe to much because of my son. Hes paying me but I still have 15 months to go.

 

That's pretty disgusting if it's true that a dealer would do that do stuff like that. I hope you're wrong and that they just have bad mechanics... and temporarily.

 

I know the Salesman and finance director for years. Some one else sent a paper about needing 2010 cars. I have had problems with the service department but that was with the Fit. They know I know more than they do if I complain about a problem. They would never try that with me and I would like to think it was not on purpose so I am leaning on a inexperience mechanic. I will let them know and maybe get a free oil change.

I also got the same letter from another dealer up north in Wisconsin.

I will be driving the car next week and I will see how the mpg goes.

 

I have 07 Honda Fit with 90k miles.
I had the same problem as many of you posted here. I just put new ignition coil and fix everything. My Fit is driving great again.
buying four ignition coil will cost about $200.
BTW when you change the four coils change the spark plugs too it will cost you about $10 for four spark plugs
Changing the coils is very easy. The four coils are setting on top far back of the engine easy to reach.