Fit '08 Battery/ Computer Reset
Thread Starter
|
New Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 13
From: New York, NY
Fit '08 Battery/ Computer Reset
Hi all,
I have a 2008 Fit with about 25,000 miles on it. I just purchased and replaced my battery with one from the Honda Dealer and drove about 250 miles. During my inspection, the mechanics said there was no computer link. They recommended that I drive it at a longer distance to reset the computer. I drove it, and there's still no read. Other than that, there was no other problems with the car. I hooked up a code reader to the car, and there was no sign that the computer was linked.
Any ideas on what's the problem?
Thanks very much.
I have a 2008 Fit with about 25,000 miles on it. I just purchased and replaced my battery with one from the Honda Dealer and drove about 250 miles. During my inspection, the mechanics said there was no computer link. They recommended that I drive it at a longer distance to reset the computer. I drove it, and there's still no read. Other than that, there was no other problems with the car. I hooked up a code reader to the car, and there was no sign that the computer was linked.
Any ideas on what's the problem?
Thanks very much.
Computer link? Think hes referring to the ECU. When you unplug or change the battery, it resets the ECU. Some people do the ILP (Idle Learn Procedure), to input the new air/fuel ratio OR some just let the ecu learn over time. Pretty much what the dealer told you.
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 114
From: Massachusetts
The inspection guy hooked a connector to the OBDII port to download data from the ECU (computer). Normally if the ECU was recently reset and had not been driven enough (to set all the data required to determine if the pollution control system is working correctly), the inspector's computer will connect to the ECU and report "not ready to test".
"No connection" implies that there is something preventing the ECU from communicating properly. Might be a loose or damaged harness for the OBDII port, or it could be internal to your ECU.
If you are still under the 36 month new vehicle warranty, just go to a dealer - it's their problem to correct.
If you're outside warranty, call a dealer and tell them what's going on - there is a chance (really not sure) that this would fall under the federally mandated pollution control warranty.
Failing good news there, my approach would be to check connector tightness at the port and at the ECU, then if nothing had changed, the best next step (and I loathe this) is to take it to a dealer - they will have the correct equipment and diagnostic systems to get you repaired as efficiently as possible.
Yes, they charge an arm and a leg per hour, but they will be so much faster than Manny the mechanic with a multimeter (who only charges a leg per hour) that you are better off in the end, especially if Manny decides you need an ECU and then whoops, he was wrong, sorry 'bout that, it'll still cost you $$$ for his labor and $$$ for the unit, but at least you know that wasn't the problem!
If they diagnose a bad harness or OBDII port, you can swap that out in your driveway, just be prepared to spend the (several hours, more likely a weekend with a helpful friend) time. If it's the ECU, talk to them about new vs junkyard ECU swap and make your decision.
"No connection" implies that there is something preventing the ECU from communicating properly. Might be a loose or damaged harness for the OBDII port, or it could be internal to your ECU.
If you are still under the 36 month new vehicle warranty, just go to a dealer - it's their problem to correct.
If you're outside warranty, call a dealer and tell them what's going on - there is a chance (really not sure) that this would fall under the federally mandated pollution control warranty.
Failing good news there, my approach would be to check connector tightness at the port and at the ECU, then if nothing had changed, the best next step (and I loathe this) is to take it to a dealer - they will have the correct equipment and diagnostic systems to get you repaired as efficiently as possible.
Yes, they charge an arm and a leg per hour, but they will be so much faster than Manny the mechanic with a multimeter (who only charges a leg per hour) that you are better off in the end, especially if Manny decides you need an ECU and then whoops, he was wrong, sorry 'bout that, it'll still cost you $$$ for his labor and $$$ for the unit, but at least you know that wasn't the problem!
If they diagnose a bad harness or OBDII port, you can swap that out in your driveway, just be prepared to spend the (several hours, more likely a weekend with a helpful friend) time. If it's the ECU, talk to them about new vs junkyard ECU swap and make your decision.
Last edited by kbri; May 17, 2011 at 08:43 AM.
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 184
From: SoCaL
Hi all,
I have a 2008 Fit with about 25,000 miles on it. I just purchased and replaced my battery with one from the Honda Dealer and drove about 250 miles. During my inspection, the mechanics said there was no computer link. They recommended that I drive it at a longer distance to reset the computer. I drove it, and there's still no read. Other than that, there was no other problems with the car. I hooked up a code reader to the car, and there was no sign that the computer was linked.
Any ideas on what's the problem?
Thanks very much.
I have a 2008 Fit with about 25,000 miles on it. I just purchased and replaced my battery with one from the Honda Dealer and drove about 250 miles. During my inspection, the mechanics said there was no computer link. They recommended that I drive it at a longer distance to reset the computer. I drove it, and there's still no read. Other than that, there was no other problems with the car. I hooked up a code reader to the car, and there was no sign that the computer was linked.
Any ideas on what's the problem?
Thanks very much.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
