Knocking noices coming from the front on full lock, but normal road driving is fine, just on full lock. Anyone know or have had the same problem?
I run bc racing V1 coilovers.

Cheers

 

Check to make sure top nut is torqued to spec then focus on the lock rings.

 

Just retorqued top nuts. Could the lock rings be loose?

 

check EVERY bolt and make sure everything is tight. Even check your wheels while youre at it.

 

Thank you, i shall check everything, could it be the CV jount?

 

Tommy has your engines blown up! like a scene from the movies?

 

It sounds like an outer CV joint is going bad to me... When it gets worse you will be able to feel vibration that coincides with the noise you are hearing.. Not long after that it will crap all of the metal onto the pavement and the shaft will whip up on the lower control arm making a hell of a racket.

 

Inspect axle shaft to make sure it has not slid out of the trans, inspect the strut's components making sure that they are installed correctly torqued to spec (click here for specs), make sure lug nuts are torque to spec (80 ft lbs).

If all else fails, try to record a video of the sound and post it up please.

 

Thanks for your help guys, taking her into garage tomorrow just to be safe

 

Good plan!

Also, I failed to mention that in the link I provided in my original reply that you must click the gray boxes that show up below the instruction/step to see the illustration as well as the torque spec.

 

Thanks for the link
What should i tell the garage to look for mainly? The CV joint? Or would they be able to see the problem once removing the wheel?

 

I would guess it is the CV joint thats racheting when bent,: the lowered stance is my first guess as to the cause. Just out of curiosity, does it knock on both sides of full lock, or one side, especially full left?

 

Is the CV joint easy and cheap to repair? Yeah i think the cause is because of the stance i got.
Its knocks both side but more on the right side, which is the drivers side...

 

To me its the left side, as in LHD cars, thats worse. In the UK its RHD
Its the short side most at risk to lowering. So yes, I think its both your joints.
Figure on L350 m-500 to replace both half shafts at a repair shop so its cheap only compared to engine rebuild. But tghis isn't the UK so you'll have get quotes from shops in your area. Top Gear might even recommend some.
Good luck.
Ps you might share yiour quotes with us.

 

There should be shops that specialize in rebuilding complete axle assemblies and sell them for less than a dealership sells a single CV joint for .... My son bought some like that for a Karman Cabriolet twice before deciding that driving a fwd car with a severely dropped suspension was too much of an expense in time and money... I don't think he would have lowered his car if I hadn't have done the same to a VW pickup when he was little so I felt obligated to help him out financially and with my labor to make his car right again... I have aftermarket coilovers on my car so I could improve the way my car rides and handles... I learned about the down side of lowering springs over 30 years ago.

 

Thank you will keep the updates on here, went to garage today but it was closed, will try contact them again tomorrow. I know it cost to be low, but hope i can get through this problem. If its the CV joint, is it simply getting new part and swapping it with old? And will it get worse and worse? I went from lowering springs to coilovers, im so sad that my car hasnt lasted long
Fingers crossed i can get it sorted asap.
Would ebay have the parts?

 

As long as you don't hear loud popping sounds and there isn't noise being heard when driving in a straight line and you are easy on the throttle when the wheels are sharply turned you could drive for a pretty long time before one of them gives out and strands you.. I haven't had to change one out on my Fit but I had to remove the outer CV on my car twice when doing suspension changes and another time on a GE model.. It isn't really all that difficult.. You remove the front axle bolt, the stabilizer link, and the bolts holding the knuckle to the front strut and the U shaped axle guard... Remove the bolts holding the inner CV to the transmission and the whole assembly can be removed. I have a Cadillac Eldorado up on jack stands right now and discovered play in one of the CV joints.. They are all pretty much the same to replace but the ones on the Caddie are huge and heavy compared to any of the others I've had to replace.

 

Thanks for all the info! Well it only makes noise at slow speeds and when turning full lock so I have time to sort it out, normal straight line driving is fine. I guess the garage will find out whats wrong tomorrow. If its the cv, ill have to get it replaced

 

You have nothing to be concerned about for a good while if that is the case... It could last for over a year or two if you are cautious.. It will let you know when it's time to replace when you can feel vibration in the steering wheel or hear popping or knocking sounds while feeling jerks in the steering wheel when turning... The next time the car is up on a lift or on jack stand take a look at them and pull, tug, and grab the axle with one hand and move the wheel with the other to check for play... Grab the shaft and the inner CV joint between the boot and transmission and do the same... More than likely it is going to be only one of the outer CV joints that will obviously need replacement.

 

Will jack the car up tomorrow and give the cv joint a check also check all the bolts. If its on jack stands do i need to remove wheels to check cv and the boot. How much play should there be? Thanks for your help!