I have a 2008 and It's difficult to get the gears to engage so I took it to the dealer because they are only two blocks from work. After inspection they told me it needs a clutch, $1700.00. I told them I'd pick it it up, don't touch it, I stopped at a couple of indie shops and was quoted over $2000. This sounds really wrong to me, does it really cost that much to do a clutch on one of these ?

 

i needed a clutch at 56k. i was boosted for 20k miles though.

i also paid $950 installed for a clutch at a lcoal shop. your gettign ripped off.

 

Between parts and 8 hours of labor, I could see where it would approach $1700 at a dealership, seems like a bit much.. you could do it yourself at considerable discount.

Remove both front tires, pull the bolts out of the knuckle, remove the sway bar links, leave the axles in the hubs, drain the fluid and pop the axles out of the diff but make sure to tie them up to not damage the cv joint.

Then remove the airbox, remove the battery, radiator hose, remove the shift linkage cables, the line between the master and slave cylinders, put a jack under the oil sump on the motor, remove the mount on the driver side.

Pull the transmission out straight and level to not damage the input shaft.

Inspect the TOB and clip, as well as the input shaft splines and collar. clean any grime off the inside of the bell housing. Remove the pressure plate bolts, pull the disc and inspect the flywheel surface.

If you can find just a clutch disc, check the step height on the flywheel yourself, and pull the trans on your own that could bring it down the realm of a few hundred bucks including fluids.

Make sure to put a moly lube on the input shaft splines and torque down the pressure plate bolts with some loc-tite. Then reverse everything you did above, pound a beer and fill the coolant and clutch systems. Bleed and burp where necessary. Then test fire.

If you can't get into gear you either bled improperly or your step-height is off.

If you can get into gear, its not notchy, the car does not creep in gear with the clutch pedal to the floor when you blip the throttle and there is no clutch drag between high-rpm shifts you are done.

By yourself it should not take more than 10 hours if you have a mild inclination for wrench turning, jack stands and a field service manual.

 

$2000 is way too much. Those shops are crazy.

Quotes here in Southern California were more around $500-$1000, depending on the shop and the parts (replacement clutch disc, pressure plate, etc.). I've seen $500 installed for Exedy clutch, parts and labor included.

 

Care to share where?

 

Thanks for the info guys, it's been most helpful. The clutch did bite it on the way home fr work , if it wasn't the clutch before it is now. A few phone calls have yielded more realistic estimates between the $700 - $900 range. That still sucks be beats the hell out of $2000!

 

PM'ing you

 

Here's a little follow up now that all is said and done. Total bill $1440.00. Mechanic called broken motor mount and "pressure plate failure" which of course destroyed the clutch. I'm off to honda tomorrow with parts to try get something out of them, should be fun.....

 

Blessing in disguise

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

 

Shit man. That really sucks. At least it's all done now though. I've had my clutch slip a few times so I priced it out to get an idea of what it's gonna set me back. Out here in BC my local performance shop quoted me approx $480 for an Exedy stage 1 + 5 hours labor at $75 an hour.

 

Went to honda dealer this morning, they wouldn't talk to me and turned me straight to honda customer care. The first person I talked to at HCC told me no go because the work wasn't done at the dealership. I told them of course the work wasn't done at the dealership, they wanted$2000 for a $900 job and besides the dealer told me it was the clutch disc which wasnt covered by warranty anyway so why the hell would I pay twice the price I needed to for a non warranty fix? I demanded a manager, they stuck me on hold for 10 minutes then said a manager would have to call me back. I expected this treatment but it still really pisses me off. I suspect the manager will give me the same line of crap, anybody have ideas who I can scream at after I'm finished with him?

 

in my opinion...chalk it up as a loss.

getting honda to pay for somthing under warrenty is a PITA.
getting honda to pay for an early "wear and tear" item under warrenty is more of a PITA.
getting honda to reimburse you for a early "wear and tear" item that was diagnosed and fixed at a independant shop....impossible.

 

Cheap kit... I will consider when it's time
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B5DOH4...9MPPAGSKPFZXT&

 

What are you expecting reimbursement for?

 

Looking at that link just brought something to mind, does anyone have a 94-01 integra pressure plate/clutch disc laying around?

They look a lot like the Fit clutch assembly, aside from the flywheel.

Though the bolt pattern for the pressure plate looks exactly the same. I wonder if the disc spline count is the same too...

If we can indeed bolt up the Integra pressure plate, and fit the Integra disc on the Fit's input shaft, clear the Fit's bellhousing and get the clutch to fully disengage after bleeding that would leave us a shit ton of proven and affordable options.

 

Damn, way different on a little further investigation.

Fit:
20 spline teeth
0.87 Spline ID
7 1/2" Disc OD

94-01 Integra:
24 Spline teeth
1 1/32" Spline ID
8 5/8" Disc OD

 

I'm probably breaking some forum rule, but don't see much point in posting the same issue into a new thread if we can add clarity to this one.

My '08 GD with 100k miles just started doing the same half way home the other day. In first gear with clutch pedal to the floor, the car creeps forward. I cannot find a leak. Fluid is not nor has ever been low, but I bled it to hoping to purge some gas. Peeking through the fork access hole with the boot aside it seems the throw out bearing is only moving about 1/4" when I expected it to travel approximately 1/2". I feel like I can see 90% of the clutch fork and cannot find a crack or other deficiency in it. My understanding is I'd have to pull the tranny to replace it anyway if it was flexing... I developed a crack-pot theory that maybe the master cylinder could have an internal leak and be backflowing into its reservoir. I keep getting stuck thinking the issue is from the TOB to the pedal... (mostly based on my WAG of thinking the TOB is not indexing as far as I think it should) I want to blame the throw-out bearing but can’t work out how it would fail in this way. It has never given any issues or noise, but, upon reflection, the last couple months it does seem like pulling out of gear with pedal to the floor has been met with resistance.

But now you guys have me thinking I too have the "pressure plate failure" and my TOB is perfectly fine... not that it makes any meaningful difference at that point.

Thoughts? Is the idea that the fingers somehow aren't flexing as far as they should to fully disengage the clutch?

I bought the car at 70k miles and presume it is on the original clutch. I actually bought it as a daily commuter for fuel efficiency and drive like an old man…who takes good care of his tools…as far as the drive train is concerned anyway (wheel bearings and suspension is a very different story). I was told to get an OEM replacement kit (EXEDY HCK1006). Thoughts on this? I plan to drive this thing into the ground around the 300k mark. To my surprise the entire kit is only currently $125 on Amazon; haven't yet priced Honda parts online.

I’m thinking I should definitely check step height. Also, this car seems to shudder more than any of the other MTs I’ve driven in my life which I’ve read in a few other threads on this forum… suggestions? I’m very good with a clutch, which I imagine is partly why I've never replaced one, but do tend to take off and feather in at a lower RPM than most folks I’m quite sure.


I am a mechanical engineer and consider myself quite handy. I’ve not actually changed a clutch in a front transverse mounted engine setup before, but have done a couple head gasket replacements… do you think the time estimate comes down from 10 to maybe 6 or so hours for someone such as myself? (Your steps make it actually seem easier than what I expected and the ridiculousness of changing the head in my dohc Celica a few years back which definitely didn’t take me 10 hrs.) I’ve replaced the half-shafts in the Celica and my old integra as well.

Edit 1: I guess I should add that the linkage from slave cylinder to clutch fork appear in perfect condition as does the pivot ball about which the fork rotates. This afternoon I slightly adjusted the master cylinder linkage adjustment at the pedal to get it just good enough to let me shift acceptably, but it seems that now the travel is bottoming out. I'm quite sure I'm on borrowed time.

 

So you're a mechanical engineer, so am I. I'm also quite handy have worked on cars. I also worked for Chrysler and would see 600 vehicles built a day. I'm significantly slower than my friend who's employed as a mechanic at a car dealership. He has more tools, specialty tools, a lift in his garage and he's accustomed to the nuisances of how vehicles are disassembled.

So im guessing unless you have a lift, a vainglorious tool collection you're probably not going to complete the job in 60% of book time?

 

Easy, Cougar.

If book time is 10 hours, I wouldn't expect it to take me any less time. I thought he was suggesting 10 hours for a total newbie. Wasnt trying to be cocky, just trying to get a good time estimate and decide if I'm going to do it or send to shop. My time isn't as easy to come by any more with two kids. I hate like hell to use a shop instead of doing anything myself.

 

Please PM me, too.