You do realize that was four and a half years ago, right?

 

Ok, after finding 07FitSprt's thread, I'm pretty much convinced you all have this thing pegged - that it is the pressure plate failing...

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...ml#post1364435

I've gone through the online manual in detail. I see there is now a Haynes on this car - you guys think I should snag it as well?
Manual Transmission Removal (5MT)

Even with the master cylinder adjustment all the way out, I'm still hanging pretty badly... I think it's time to rip this thing apart. I bled the line again just for peace of mind. I borrowed a loaner car for a couple weeks so I can take my time and do it right. I'm assuming I can borrow any specialty tools from the zone, but haven't yet verified...

 

Mine lasted right up to 200k

 

I decided taking this on myself would be a learning experience that would be rewarding. I've got the freaking thing ready to come out except that rear motor mount. How the hell did you guys get the transmission out without removing the subframe? I think I'm missing something dumb. @07FitSprt explicity stated he did it. @DiamondStarMonsters didn't claim this, but left it out of the procedure.

My Haynes manual hasn't made it here yet. The hondafitjazz manual says to take much more apart than what was needed so far. Going forward, it has you take apart the steering gearbox brackets and then entire subframe.

I just took this photo. I took two of the three motor mount to subframe bolts (red) out before I realized that I still wasn't going to be able to slide the transmission toward the driver's side along the tranny input shaft due to the bracket hitting the power steering motor. There are two bolts that hold motor mount to the transmission casting (orange), but I'll be a monkey's uncle if somebody says they can get a wrench or socket in there to get it out; I could barely get the tip of my finger in there to find it.


I didn't get up and personal with that mount but if it looks half as bad as the one holding tranny to driver fender, I'd like to replace it anyway. I can't see any way to do it without dropping the subframe. What am I missing? I really don't think I can bring the entire engine and tranny toward the radiator the 3" needed to get over that subframe.

 

I need help and have a question, but first:

Here’s what I was missing: While I was right you cannot get the black mount to transmission adapter bracket off in-place, you don’t need to (though it would make the work much easier). You have two options. You can
1) Drop the subframe per the online fitjazz manual as well as the Haynes so that you gain the necessary clearance to slide transmission along clutchplate splines OR
2) Unbolt the entire engine/tranny combo including exhaust collector and float it toward the radiator to get clearance. (I was scared to do this since I didn’t have a cherry picker and was already down the other rabbit hole. With 20/20 hindsight I should have borrowed or framed up a makeshift lift and put the engine on the floor jack and done this)
Here is a good discussion regarding both options I wish I’d found before (I hope it’s ok to post external links)
DIY Clutch Replacement - sorted

Honestly, you might even be able to get it off without doing either, but I was a bit scared because I wasn’t sure how far I had to move the tranny before the input shaft would be free (turns out to only be about 1.5”) and I grossly overestimated its weight – I don’t think it weighs more than 60 pounds. I was worried about damaging splines and components.

My question: I went subframe method which was a real bear. You cannot get an impact on many of the bolts. I felt like this car had more corrosion than it should have when I bought it… anyway I believe one of the weldnuts inside the subframe broke loose with the rear transmission mount bolt about half way out. About every 15° of rotation either way results in some slipping of the ratchet. I cannot access the weldnut from underneath to put a socket on it like I did the other two weldnuts that broke (though they broke completely free without any friction in turning the bolt). This is because the subframe has a spotwelded plate in this area. The only thing I can think to do is to get a hole saw and literally cut an access hole in the bottom of the subframe. Ideas?