While trying to change my oil yesterday, I couldn't get the oil drain plug to budge. I'm guessing the previous oil change shop (Merchant's Tire) over torqued my drain bolt. This was probably 4-5 months ago. I was trying to undo the plug using a crescent wrench. The plug is so tight that I was shaking the car and kind of rounded out the plug. I'm thinking about taking the car to the dealer for them to check it out. I know I'm going to need a new drain plug but I'm also afraid the oil pan is going to be stripped.
What do you guys think?

 

The bolt is not stripped or you would have the plug spinning loosely in the hole and it probably would be leaking. Forget the crescent wrench. Go get a box end wrench. Better yet if you can find it a 6 point box end wrench. Then try again. Also get a small hammer and tap on the end of the wrench in a counter clockwise direction to initially break it loose. After you get it out, replace the plug and the washer.

In the future do not use a crescent wrench on that bolt.

 

It may sound dumb, but if you haven't already, make 100% sure you're turning it the right way. Orient yourself, and make sure you're turning counterclockwise.

I've seen people try to break a bolt loose when upside down or in some weird position, just to find out they've been over-tightening it the whole time.

 

Also, don't ever use adjustable wrenches at all. Like ever. Thank you Taylor.

 

6 point box end with a breaker bar.

I had this happen once to my wife's old car and I just took it back to the idiots that did it and told them to fix it.

No charge.

Have done them all myself on her car from then on.

 

I kept having that problem too during oil changes. The OEM Honda drain bolts are too soft of a metal material. After letting the car sit for 30 minutes the drain bolt was still really hot, so when I tried loosening it I nearly stripped it every time using my 17mm wrench. Got so sick of it that I made an investment, the best $30 investment ever. No more dirty hands, no more washers to replace, and no more drain bolts.

Fumoto Valve: QuickOilDrainValve.com

 

This looks like the perfect solution.
Do you still install the standard honda aluminum washer with this also?

 

^^ X2 on this and not advising using a crescent wrench at all on the drain plug's bolt. Using a 6-point 17mm socket would be best like mentioned or a boxed end of a wrench or 12-point 17mm if don't have a 6-point.

IF you didn't over tighten the bolt by accident and can remove the oil drain bolt WITHOUT FORCE, I would recommend that you carefully inspect the crush washer and look for 2 crush points on the washer (sign that it wasn't replaced in the last oil change). Replace the washer with a new one, install a new drain bolt, and torque it to 31 foot lbs (if possible).

If you cannot get the bolt to budge or if you have to use force to attempt to remove the bolt, stop what you are doing, tighten it back up as best as you can and get it to a Honda dealer (preferred) or Honda service specialist. If the threads are damaged beyond of point of re-threading and/or being pulled out of the pan, a tech will bore out the drain hole in the pan, cut new threads in it and put a new larger bolt or "insert" for temporary use until your replacement pan comes in. (Which I'd recommend you to contact the shop that did your previous oil change and give them a piece of your mind once getting the quote on the repair. )

 

Get rid of that old rounded oil plug quick before it strips out your oil pan threads. Better yet get the Fumoto Valve like Super Mario referred to then you will not have to worry about stripping any threads. I have the Fumoto valve on every engine I own. It is the only way to go. Lets see, two cars, a motor coach, the zero turn lawn tractor, and the snow blower.

 

Crescent wrenches are evil!

 

I'm not sure if I have a washer installed, but most likely. It definitely can't hurt, and it's only a few cents at the dealership.

 

1. a crescent wrench is not the wrench to use as others pointed out. Its too short to genrate enough torque to loosen..
2. Use a six point socket with at least 24 inch lever.
3. And do replace the washer
4. Don't rte-install the bolt with the 24" soc kedt unless you have a good idea of how tight you're doing.
5. oil the threads of the drain plug before re-installing. Overtorquing dry threads is a major reasoin for plugs being too tight.

 

Update: I took it to the dealer to get the plug out. Thank goodness the oil pan threads were ok. The drain plug however had to be replaced.

Another thing is that the dealer put in Honda brand oil. I was curious about sending a "pure" oil sample to see the additives used in their oil. So after I drive home (10miles), I drained the oil and was totally surprised. The oil was dark brown!!! Almost black!!
How can this be after just 10 miles of driving???

 

Why would you change the oil 10 miles after it was changed? The oil the dealer used was a high detergent oil which would turn black after it got hot. What oil did you use to replace the dealer oil?

 

I didn't replace the oil. I just poured it back in after I got the sample. Just never saw oil that changed color that quick.

 

How many mile on the car? If your worried I would change it again at 3000 miles with filter.

 

We've changed oil in thousands of cars and checked oil level after 5 to 50 miles driving by customers; we've never seen oil change color that fast either from good fresh oil like any from Havoline to Mobil 1.
I suspect several things none pleasant but I bet you replaced the oil plug because you boogered up the hex. Next time use a socket, 17mm if my memory serves. That applies to everyone who DIY oil and filter changes.
PS you did make sure you drained the oil into clean containers to return? That sample when analyzed on a mass spectrometer just might indicate very used oil.

 

Unlike most cars I've owned the Fit has a cast aluminum oil pan that unlike stamped steel expands when hot and makes removal of the drain plug difficult.. Before changing the oil I slightly loosen the drain plug before taking a drive to warm the oil and then change it.. Instead of replacing the washer, I use a propane torch to anneal or soften the metal.. Old motorcyclists that maintained their machines have been doing it that way since long before I was born.

 

I just went out and checked my wife's Accord. The K24 is known to oil consumption issues so I wanted to check the oil. It was full and dark brown almost black. It has 1000 miles on this oil and 7000 on the car.

Mahout, oil color has nothing to do with if the oil is bad and get use to seeing dark brown or black oil with the new GF5 oils.

 

Some of you might already know this. Something I picked up along the way, an old low-tech mechanic trick/practice: Using a socket/ratchet wrench, depending on the length of the handle of course.
Hand over the socket and ratchet head while tightening - hand tight.
Hand at the middle of the handle - wrench tight.
Hand at the end of the handle - very tight.
Works for me. Want precision, then use a torque wrench.