Key does not fit driver side door anymore
#1
Key does not fit driver side door anymore
Hey guys,
This is straight bugging me now. A few weeks ago this was occurring and then it stopped. And now I can't even get my key in the key hole in my driver side door. I do not have keyless entry. My key works on the passenger side no problem. On my driver side, I can't get the key completely in
This is straight bugging me now. A few weeks ago this was occurring and then it stopped. And now I can't even get my key in the key hole in my driver side door. I do not have keyless entry. My key works on the passenger side no problem. On my driver side, I can't get the key completely in
#2
I would try lithium grease. I also use ceramic paste myself. There is a product called lock ease that is Teflon based I believe. The trick for me is to lube the teeth of the key first then spend a good 30 seconds "sexing the lock" with the key. Good 'ole in out in out! That should lubricate the tumblers and free the mechanism.
DO NOT SPRAY WD 40 in there!
DO NOT SPRAY WD 40 in there!
#3
Lithium grease eh? I'm going to give that a try this weekend. Buy it any parts store like a part source or something? Cause I'm tired of going through my passenger side every morning in my suit. Not easy lol.
#4
I bought a blank key for my friend with a Base Fit (2010) for maybe $40 and it didn't take long to configure the car to read the code, so now she has remote access, albeit now with two different keys, one for remote and the other for the ignition.
#5
I will try the grease as it's not an issue with my key rather the actual lock itself.
#6
Well, you can always cut off the key part, you only need the remote control part. Whether it's worth $40 is up to you, I'd pay that to avoid climbing across the seats in a suit (or reaching across the seats for the unlock button, then walking around). The remote unlock/lock is a nice feature to have anyway, especially in the rain.
#7
I'd suggest looking inside the keyhole to see whether someone tampered with it, e.g. broke another key inside, filled it with glue, etc. If it has been tampered with, a dental pick may be able to pry whatever is in there out.
#8
3-in-1 Professional White Lithium Grease | Canadian Tire
If you buy this you can use it in all your locks to prevent sticking freezing and I use it to coat my battery terminals as it will not inhibit conductivity but helps prevent corrosion.
If you buy this you can use it in all your locks to prevent sticking freezing and I use it to coat my battery terminals as it will not inhibit conductivity but helps prevent corrosion.
#9
Well, you can always cut off the key part, you only need the remote control part. Whether it's worth $40 is up to you, I'd pay that to avoid climbing across the seats in a suit (or reaching across the seats for the unlock button, then walking around). The remote unlock/lock is a nice feature to have anyway, especially in the rain.
#10
Well, you can always cut off the key part, you only need the remote control part. Whether it's worth $40 is up to you, I'd pay that to avoid climbing across the seats in a suit (or reaching across the seats for the unlock button, then walking around). The remote unlock/lock is a nice feature to have anyway, especially in the rain.
So are you suggesting I can get keyless entry with just a remote? If that's what you are saying, then yeah it's worth the $40 bro.
I may not have understood your first post.
#11
UPDATE:
Okay just got back from CT. Got myself some lithium grease. Sprayed it in the keyhole as well as on the key. Worked the key in nice and hard. Took a few trys to get the key in fully. But yes I got the key in. Then it took a few trys unlock the actual door. But it did work. However. When I got home, I forgot something in my Fit. So I went back. Key slid in perfectly. But the key would not turn. After some force, turned left first, then it finally went right and the door unlocked. The keyhole is semi fixed. Anyone have any suggestions as to why it doesn't want to turn on the first try and that I need to use force a little bit? Could this be due to the grease not having enough time to settle?
Last edited by GinoLicious; 11-01-2013 at 07:11 PM.
#12
I swear to God if that happened bro I'm going nuts. Some fool has already stolen gas from my Fit a month or 2 ago right out of my parking lot at my apartment. Posted about that story the day it happened.
UPDATE:
Okay just got back from CT. Got myself some lithium grease. Sprayed it in the keyhole as well as on the key. Worked the key in nice and hard. Took a few trys to get the key in fully. But yes I got the key in. Then it took a few trys unlock the actual door. But it did work. However. When I got home, I forgot something in my Fit. So I went back. Key slid in perfectly. But the key would not turn. After some force, turned left first, then it finally went right and the door unlocked. The keyhole is semi fixed. Anyone have any suggestions as to why it doesn't want to turn on the first try and that I need to use force a little bit? Could this be due to the grease not having enough time to settle?
UPDATE:
Okay just got back from CT. Got myself some lithium grease. Sprayed it in the keyhole as well as on the key. Worked the key in nice and hard. Took a few trys to get the key in fully. But yes I got the key in. Then it took a few trys unlock the actual door. But it did work. However. When I got home, I forgot something in my Fit. So I went back. Key slid in perfectly. But the key would not turn. After some force, turned left first, then it finally went right and the door unlocked. The keyhole is semi fixed. Anyone have any suggestions as to why it doesn't want to turn on the first try and that I need to use force a little bit? Could this be due to the grease not having enough time to settle?
You can even turn the key a few times but wouldn't go to crazy so you don't overheat the door lock motors. Then again you could disconnect the battery and the do some semi vigorous turning the idea is to get the parts moving and to get the grease to spread to the parts that are sticking.
#13
Sorry I'm late to this Topic.
I always use a graphite lubricant for locks (and speedometer cables, who remembers those???)
The benefit to this type of lubricant is that it has a liquid carrier that evaporates after a while, leaving only the slippery graphite inside. It is much less likely to gum up later, compared to lithium lubricants.
You simply squirt the Lock-Ease onto the key, insert it into the keyhole, and work it in. Turn the key over and re-apply, and do it some more. (Sexing the lock, LOL)
BTW, it's very possible that your key is worn on one side. If yours is a high mileage car on which you have always used the same key, a new key should be a consideration. (Then, you could get one with the remote fob if you want to treat yourself!)
I always use a graphite lubricant for locks (and speedometer cables, who remembers those???)
The benefit to this type of lubricant is that it has a liquid carrier that evaporates after a while, leaving only the slippery graphite inside. It is much less likely to gum up later, compared to lithium lubricants.
You simply squirt the Lock-Ease onto the key, insert it into the keyhole, and work it in. Turn the key over and re-apply, and do it some more. (Sexing the lock, LOL)
BTW, it's very possible that your key is worn on one side. If yours is a high mileage car on which you have always used the same key, a new key should be a consideration. (Then, you could get one with the remote fob if you want to treat yourself!)
Last edited by Carbuff2; 11-02-2013 at 09:05 AM.
#15
Didn't know, the lithium grease was prone to gunk. I use a graffite paste used for guitars (that's expensive as hell). I might switch to using lock ease on my guitars instead of the graffitall guitar lube in my locks
#16
If your car is a GE8 then it should have the electronics for remote keyless entry, Honda just doesn't provide the key. So if you buy a key, I paid $42 with shipping on ebay a couple of years ago, you can program it. Actually the key is just a transmitter, you're programming the car to recognize the key's signal. For some reason with my friend's Fit it took a half-dozen tries, as per instructions in the manual, but now she can unlock/lock the doors by pressing a button. As you don't need the key part of it (the metal) you could cut that off, as long as you don't leave sharp edges, it'd take up less room in your pocket, etc.
Remote keyless entry/locking is a nice feature to have for forty bucks and five minutes work.
By the way, you might find a junk key at a junkyard, and program your car to it, if they sell them separately, you just don't know how old the battery would be...
Remote keyless entry/locking is a nice feature to have for forty bucks and five minutes work.
By the way, you might find a junk key at a junkyard, and program your car to it, if they sell them separately, you just don't know how old the battery would be...
#17
Sorry I'm late to this Topic.
I always use a graphite lubricant for locks (and speedometer cables, who remembers those???)
The benefit to this type of lubricant is that it has a liquid carrier that evaporates after a while, leaving only the slippery graphite inside. It is much less likely to gum up later, compared to lithium lubricants.
You simply squirt the Lock-Ease onto the key, insert it into the keyhole, and work it in. Turn the key over and re-apply, and do it some more. (Sexing the lock, LOL)
BTW, it's very possible that your key is worn on one side. If yours is a high mileage car on which you have always used the same key, a new key should be a consideration. (Then, you could get one with the remote fob if you want to treat yourself!)
I always use a graphite lubricant for locks (and speedometer cables, who remembers those???)
The benefit to this type of lubricant is that it has a liquid carrier that evaporates after a while, leaving only the slippery graphite inside. It is much less likely to gum up later, compared to lithium lubricants.
You simply squirt the Lock-Ease onto the key, insert it into the keyhole, and work it in. Turn the key over and re-apply, and do it some more. (Sexing the lock, LOL)
BTW, it's very possible that your key is worn on one side. If yours is a high mileage car on which you have always used the same key, a new key should be a consideration. (Then, you could get one with the remote fob if you want to treat yourself!)
Yes I have been using my key since day one basically since 2007.
Buying another key, interesting. I am a GD3, but could I still get one that has keyless on it? I assume i could right? Fit didn't come with it, but since I do have power locks, I don't see how a remote would need an install of anything or complicate anything with the locks.
Just go to Honda and ask for a new key with a remote and I'll be good?
Lock seems to be getting easier now. Today first try and it slid right in and turned. But I still would love the keyless.
#18
I do NOT guarantee that remote key works with GD3, the car does have to have the receiver parts in it. They may only have put that in the Sport model those years, I don't know. Probably someone else here does. Don't assume it works just because you have power door locks as the receiver part is different.
Honda charges a lot more than $40 for a key...
Honda charges a lot more than $40 for a key...
#19
#20
Next on my shopping list is Shin-Etsu grease to grease all the seals before winter.