1st Generation (GD 01-08) The one that started it all! Generation specific talk and questions here!

2008 sport front strut replacement

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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 04:29 PM
  #1  
running's Avatar
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From: elgin
2008 sport front strut replacement

Any hints before start this project
 
Old Dec 3, 2013 | 09:29 PM
  #2  
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Do a quick inspection for rust, if present, go ahead and buy a can of pb blaster or liquid wrench.

other then that, make sure you ahve a QUALITY allen set for the strut top and sway bar links


Cheap allen keys wont fit perfect and cause major headaches!!

Take your time as well!

When strut is removed, be aware that the cv shaft may be put out of its travel limits and pop out of the transmission. I used old speaker wire to tie mine up a bit while I did my lowering springs on my Fit
 
Old Dec 3, 2013 | 10:34 PM
  #3  
running's Avatar
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Thx for the tip. I'd like to get this done and the rears as well tomorrow.

I aslo need to get new plugs and check the valve lash, maybe that will happen next week
 
Old Dec 4, 2013 | 01:27 PM
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Make certain your spring compressor is secure and in proper working order. (Especially if you are renting one, which are often abused.) Also make certain the gland nut is secure and the upper strut mount components are in good shape.
 
Old Dec 4, 2013 | 04:35 PM
  #5  
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The struts and shocks are on order, they'll be in next week so I hosed everything thing down with PB Blaster so Hopefully things will go a little easier
 
Old Dec 22, 2013 | 07:03 AM
  #6  
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I just completed replacing struts and shocks on my Fit Sport with 97k miles on it. Though no leaking, the LH shock had lost it's gas charge. The strut replacement was easier than any I have done before (mostly on Toyota's), given that the spring doesn't need to be compressed much to safely remove and the strut is held on with only three bolts.

Removal of the stabilizer end links was the longest part of the job. They're exposed to water constantly so were very corroded; the Allen insert does not provide much leverage to prevent the stud from turning while removing the nut (and requires the use of a wrench, since otherwise you can't hold the Allen wrench). One of the boots was damaged during removal, so I am replacing both endlinks with new Moog units (which allow using a wrench to secure the stud in the event I need to do this again).
 
Old Dec 28, 2013 | 08:52 PM
  #7  
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The Moog end links came in today, so finished the job. As information, they are much beefier than the OEM units and have grease fittings. The original driver's side was damaged on removal and the passenger side was shot.
 
Old Dec 29, 2013 | 10:30 AM
  #8  
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I'd like to know what a "Moog end link" is.

One of these, perhaps?

http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...-bar-end-links
 
Old Dec 29, 2013 | 11:06 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Marrk
I'd like to know what a "Moog end link" is.

One of these, perhaps?

http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...-bar-end-links
Yep,

If you search the Rock Auto catalog, they call them Stabilizer Bar End Links. The MOOG parts are less than $20 USD a side.

We installed them on our '07 about a year ago, they work fine.
 
Old Dec 29, 2013 | 11:13 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Carbuff2
Yep,

If you search the Rock Auto catalog, they call them Stabilizer Bar End Links. The MOOG parts are less than $20 USD a side.

We installed them on our '07 about a year ago, they work fine.

So, we're talking about, for example, Part #K80274 on that link?
 
Old Dec 29, 2013 | 10:13 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Marrk
So, we're talking about, for example, Part #K80274 on that link?
Yes.

Note that there are different part numbers for left and right sides on the Fit.
 
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