Has anyone here NEVER replaced their coil packs?
Happy New Year FitBoy. 110,000 miles and I still have the original plugs and coil packs. I am concerned to read that many on this thread have replaced the plugs at 100,000 because I am of the mindset that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." If I was to order NGK/Denso plugs from Rock Auto and spend the time taking the nut off of each coil, and my car was over 100,000 miles, I'd order new coil packs and put them on at the same time. So for me, with a very dry engine and no indications of misfires, I plan on letting the engine do its thing until it hiccups and tells me to do otherwise.
Happy New Year FitBoy. 110,000 miles and I still have the original plugs and coil packs. I am concerned to read that many on this thread have replaced the plugs at 100,000 because I am of the mindset that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." If I was to order NGK/Denso plugs from Rock Auto and spend the time taking the nut off of each coil, and my car was over 100,000 miles, I'd order new coil packs and put them on at the same time. So for me, with a very dry engine and no indications of misfires, I plan on letting the engine do its thing until it hiccups and tells me to do otherwise.
since my kid has to pay for the gas, I can guarantee that it is regular unleaded. I drive it from time to time to check on performance and I can assure you that I don't hear any valve tappet compared to my Vibe's Corolla engine which sounds annoying, but normal. I did get the valves adjusted at the dealer at 95,000 miles just for the heck of it, and because I know the previous owner did not do any preventative maintenance on the car. Given how visually obvious it was that only oil changes were done in 94,000 miles, I can also guarantee that the plugs and coil packs are also the original. I seem to have bought a good one. So far, the best $6,500 spent on a car to date.
Last edited by BurntZ; Jan 18, 2015 at 06:42 PM.
I can answer "yes" to having the original coil packs on my daughter's '07, but I've serviced them once at 70K. Searching around here once I started to get the typical Fit stutter, but without throwing a code, I found a thread that showed disassembling the plug boots and cleaning all the electrical contact points. I followed the instruction and we're back to running smooth.
Bill
Bill
Right now it's sneaking up on 75k and running just fine. Just a sidenote; when I went on a search for coilpacks, I saw that all the parts houses also listed the plug boots separately. If you don't care to do all the dis-assembly and cleaning I did (there's a tutorial on the forum somewhere), you can just try a new set of plug boots and you may very well solve the problem. I don't hesitate to spend money on my vehicles, but just throwing parts at it in the form of all new coil packs isn't old-school mechanic's style. I'd rather attempt to find and fix the exact problem, even if it's more time-consuming. There's just more pride in accomplishment for me.
Bill
Bill
I think this is one of the situations where it's only reported when it becomes a problem and if nothing goes wrong nobody says anything. How many fit owners do you think there are that don't post on this forum I wouldn't hesitate is a less than 1% even know about this forum. I'm sure the coil packs will last a long time. I also don't see how the grade of gas would affect the coil.
I'm at 108k originals. New ik22's at 100k and have done the valve lash a few times out of boredom. Lol watch mine start to miss fire tomorrow.
I'm at 108k originals. New ik22's at 100k and have done the valve lash a few times out of boredom. Lol watch mine start to miss fire tomorrow.
I've had my car pass emissions with bad coil packs before. Not sure how maybe I was lucky. I also noticed my car misfiring but no codes thrown. After I replaced the coil packs and spark plugs and did a valve adjustment the car ran smooth again.
In the late 90s (early days of OBDII) I remember Ford and Chrysler revamping their OBD software to require many misfires before a Check Engine Lamp was lit. Prior to that, the CEL would go on randomly, all the time, at even the slightest hiccup. People were bringing the cars in under warranty too often...
I started having misfires at 110,000 miles. I cleaned and added some dielectric grease to the OEM coilpacks and still running strong at 151,000 miles.
The coilpack tube pulls off and exposes a spring and electrical contacts. Just sand off the copper sulfate, grease it, and put it back together.
The coilpack tube pulls off and exposes a spring and electrical contacts. Just sand off the copper sulfate, grease it, and put it back together.
I started having misfires at 110,000 miles. I cleaned and added some dielectric grease to the OEM coilpacks and still running strong at 151,000 miles.
The coilpack tube pulls off and exposes a spring and electrical contacts. Just sand off the copper sulfate, grease it, and put it back together.
The coilpack tube pulls off and exposes a spring and electrical contacts. Just sand off the copper sulfate, grease it, and put it back together.
120,000kms/75,000miles new plugs that's all
My 07 Fit , in service 11/06, is at 125,000kms now and I just changed the plugs.
No problems with the coil packs.
The only non-routine repairs have been the front sway bar links, the front wheel bearings, one axle boot, and the rear door handle. For the latter see the thread rear hatch latch handle. I did a lot of postings with photos for the problem which, IMHO, will be in the future of all Fit owners, especially those in Canada and the northern states . . . . road salt. See the thread for explanations. Great car cheap, fun to drive (manual ), can hold a lot of stuff, easy to repair and reliable.
Only dislikes: the rear latch handle, and the battery (too small).
No problems with the coil packs.
The only non-routine repairs have been the front sway bar links, the front wheel bearings, one axle boot, and the rear door handle. For the latter see the thread rear hatch latch handle. I did a lot of postings with photos for the problem which, IMHO, will be in the future of all Fit owners, especially those in Canada and the northern states . . . . road salt. See the thread for explanations. Great car cheap, fun to drive (manual ), can hold a lot of stuff, easy to repair and reliable.
Only dislikes: the rear latch handle, and the battery (too small).
Switched out the plugs with OEM replacements at 95,000-100,000 miles. Still on the original coils at 110,000, but I'm expecting to have to replace them within the next year. It will be a race to see if the coils or starter can die first.
I replaced the plugs but not the coils. At over 140k miles. Now I'm getting some stumbling when climbing a hill and I'm taking a gamble and replacing the coils (hitachi) and plugs (OEM NGK) to see if that solves it.
when you do update us with the results please
@FionatheFit will do.
Does anyone know if it's easy to check the compression when changing spark plugs? I'm coming up on some potential repairs (starter and eventually clutch) and I want to make sure everything is in good shape before investing more money.
When the mechanic is changing the plugs, can I just ask him to check the compression?
Does anyone know if it's easy to check the compression when changing spark plugs? I'm coming up on some potential repairs (starter and eventually clutch) and I want to make sure everything is in good shape before investing more money.
When the mechanic is changing the plugs, can I just ask him to check the compression?


