2 questions..
#1
2 questions..
First, my 07 Sport has started to shudder at lights in Drive, and Neutral. It shudders about 4 times, but only when its idle. While on the freeway its perfect but last year a check engine light came on and the car felt like it was going to lose complete power going up hill. I just bought the car used with 90k miles and I was pissed. I had the service tech replace spark plugs and the issue was gone. At 120k miles this shudder issue has happens.. Would this be a coil pack issue?? I bought new spark plugs but I'm not sure if thats the problem.
Lastly I lost my keys for the first time in my life. How do I go about getting a replacement honda key. I'm currently using my spare but would like a back up. What's the cost of something like this?
-Thanks
Lastly I lost my keys for the first time in my life. How do I go about getting a replacement honda key. I'm currently using my spare but would like a back up. What's the cost of something like this?
-Thanks
#3
Coil packs are relatively cheap to buy and install yourself.
Take it from me: I lived with the shudder for a long time. I also had it looked at a few times only for them to find another $100 repair. So then I decided to do the foils and it was like night and day.
Take it from me: I lived with the shudder for a long time. I also had it looked at a few times only for them to find another $100 repair. So then I decided to do the foils and it was like night and day.
#6
I'm pretty much above newbie level and know a few things but idle air control valve, whats TB? Are these things easy to access like the coils? I'm sure the valve adjustment is next level process. I don't have a a place to fix my car so if its a easy process I can do it on the street.
#7
Then again I had my IAC cleaned at 200k, valves adjusted at 150k, and coils at 230k. I'm not normal or should be giving advice.
If you do end up looking at cools check Rock Auto. I picked up a set for a little over $200 (~$50 per coil). I chose Hitachi because it's the actual OE part.
#8
Went to a mechanic yesterday and he "tested" the coils. Basically taking each one off while the car was running to see if the vibration would become worse. With each one taken off the vibration of the car increased so I'm assuming the coils are not the problem? Is this this accurate ?
At this point its either replace them ($200) or pay $125 for a Honda dealer to check out the car and possibly not find anything because I'm showing no CEL.
At this point its either replace them ($200) or pay $125 for a Honda dealer to check out the car and possibly not find anything because I'm showing no CEL.
#9
For me it would be $200 now to have them replaced or pay 60% of that for Honda to "see" if they can find a problem.
Eventually you're going to pay to replace the coils. I understand if money is tight (same here).
Knowing all that... it may not be fixed because it could be needing a valve adjustment.
Eventually you're going to pay to replace the coils. I understand if money is tight (same here).
Knowing all that... it may not be fixed because it could be needing a valve adjustment.
#10
Re: the key, you can get a key replacement online - $10 or so for the "dumb" key that is chipped to work with the Fit, or buy a smart case (a few $) and a used smart key ($40 or so). All of this is off of ebay. Then go the dealer and have them cut and program them (and assemble the smart key if you've gone that route). My dealer charged like $80 for however many keys I wanted to bring him.
Random key shops, even locksmiths can't program the Fit keys. You're stuck dealing with the dealer. And if you just walk in to the dealer without the ebay keys, my dealer would have charged me $50/dumb key, $200/smart key in addition to the $80 keying. fee.
Re: the misfires, I don't think your test rules out coil pack problems. It rules out a completely failed coil pack, but they begin failing by "missing a beat" here and there, especially at high rpm. If you're feeling really cheap, you could just replace the coil pack boots for like $10 each. Probably not as good a solution as the Hitachi replacements, but if you're on a budget they will work, at least for a while. Also, you're due for a valve adjustment anyway (I think Honda recommends at 100k), so I personally would just do that first.
Random key shops, even locksmiths can't program the Fit keys. You're stuck dealing with the dealer. And if you just walk in to the dealer without the ebay keys, my dealer would have charged me $50/dumb key, $200/smart key in addition to the $80 keying. fee.
Re: the misfires, I don't think your test rules out coil pack problems. It rules out a completely failed coil pack, but they begin failing by "missing a beat" here and there, especially at high rpm. If you're feeling really cheap, you could just replace the coil pack boots for like $10 each. Probably not as good a solution as the Hitachi replacements, but if you're on a budget they will work, at least for a while. Also, you're due for a valve adjustment anyway (I think Honda recommends at 100k), so I personally would just do that first.
#11
So for the key buy a actual used remote used key just for the inside's and buttons and junk the blade because it's pointless and also buy a blank key that hasn't been cut. Bring it to Honda and they re-program the used key and cut the blank? Many of the search's on ebay are coming up with misleading titles about these keys.. smh, and are just selling cases.
How much is a valve adjustment? I'm just going to order the coil pack today and replace them also.
How much is a valve adjustment? I'm just going to order the coil pack today and replace them also.
#12
check out this thread on how to program the new key yourself:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...e-key-fob.html
you can purchase a blank from Honda Parts | Genuine OEM Honda Auto Parts - Bernardi Parts
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...e-key-fob.html
you can purchase a blank from Honda Parts | Genuine OEM Honda Auto Parts - Bernardi Parts
#13
Skeletor: actually, I would love for you to be the norm. Please expand; did you do your FIRST coil pack replacement at 230,000 miles??? I'm at 120,000 and REALLY hate to throw away money on parts that are working just fine. If some studdering is the signal to replace them, I'm not there yet, and would like to wait as long as possible. Also, if that was the first time you replaced your coil packs, did you ever replace the OEM iridium plugs or did you do those for the first time at 230,000 miles?
#15
Skeletor: actually, I would love for you to be the norm. Please expand; did you do your FIRST coil pack replacement at 230,000 miles??? I'm at 120,000 and REALLY hate to throw away money on parts that are working just fine. If some studdering is the signal to replace them, I'm not there yet, and would like to wait as long as possible. Also, if that was the first time you replaced your coil packs, did you ever replace the OEM iridium plugs or did you do those for the first time at 230,000 miles?
I plan to do coils again this summer in about 10k.
#17
I also lived with mine for a very long time (1-2 years). It went from a miss/wiggle a week, to once a day, to multiple times a day, then it was nearly un-drive-able!
#18
Coil packs are relatively cheap to buy and install yourself.
Take it from me: I lived with the shudder for a long time. I also had it looked at a few times only for them to find another $100 repair. So then I decided to do the foils and it was like night and day.
Take it from me: I lived with the shudder for a long time. I also had it looked at a few times only for them to find another $100 repair. So then I decided to do the foils and it was like night and day.
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