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Blown out spark plug? Cylinder head remove/install??

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  #1  
Old 06-17-2016, 08:11 PM
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Blown out spark plug? Cylinder head remove/install??

Hello all,
I've got a 2008 Fit with about 92k miles. Last Fall a spark plug came loose & I replaced all of them. Now the same one came loose again, except this time it exploded out violently taking the threads with it. I'm assuming the threads were damaged when it came loose previously but it took torque and lasted in there for about 4 months & 5k miles.
Anyway I found the removal & install instruction (Cylinder Head Removal (L12A/L13A) & Cylinder Head Installation (L12A/L13A)) here which is super helpful BUT A FEW QUESTIONS........
1. Can I pull the head in the chassis? Or must the engine be pulled?
2. Looks like Honda sells a gasket set (06110-RME-A00) for the cylinder head, will this have everything I need? Can't find a breakdown of whats included.
3. Any idea how long it'll take me to pull & re-install the head? Best case scenario? I'm a 7-level aircraft mechanic, formerly ASE Diesel Master Tech & built motorcycle engines for years, so I'm pretty handy.... (Once I get the head out I've got a machinist who'll heli-coil the threads while I wait.)
Thanks all for the help.
-Fissel
 
  #2  
Old 06-17-2016, 09:02 PM
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On 1.5 engine the head can be pulled with engine in; the timing chain must be match marked to the cam sprocket before removal. Plan about 10 hours for Removal and installation process
 
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:25 PM
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1. Head will come out in the car.
2. There are two part numbers one is just the head gasket one is the top-end-kit. I've had really good luck on imports with NAPA kits(Usually TRW inside, sometimes you'll find the factory set in the factory box inside the napa box) .. If you can't get the OEM.
3. First time around I'd go more like 6 hours for the work.. with air tools to break everything loose I'm pretty sure I could have it off in a couple hours. (Similar resume to yours but all track time... ) The biggest thing is documenting all the electrical connections that are close or in the way..

Seriously the head is easy to get at and if you've worked on planes and trucks its just another head. I personally have a 100K limit on pulling a head and NOT freshening the engine (Light quick hone, new rings and rod/main bearings). by the time you get all the honda crap off the top of the engine its darn near out and I'm pretty sure two guys could pole lift it out.. I'd also check around on the cost of a reman head rather than helicoil it. Ive occasionally been surprised how cheap the heads are from NAPA or other major auto parts stores.
 
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Old 06-18-2016, 09:23 AM
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Alrighty, Thanks for the input. I'm going to the dealer now for the gasket set & I'll get to work once it comes in.
-Fissel
 
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Old 06-21-2016, 10:38 PM
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Got started this evening after work & got the coolant drained, intake removed, all required wiring disconnected/removed, fuel rail/injectors removed & heat shield popped off. Hope to finish getting the head off tomorrow. Lotsa sensors to remember to plug back in....
Complete top end gasket set is backordered with no eta so it looks like I'll have to order individual gaskets piecemeal.
 
  #6  
Old 06-22-2016, 08:37 PM
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Any tricks for removing the Crank pulley? Do I really need the three Honda-specific tools which cost a combined $210??
Crankshaft Pulley Removal and Installation
 
  #7  
Old 06-22-2016, 08:55 PM
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A little more research & I found this
which led to me ordering this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Should be in by Saturday and I'll get back at it.
 
  #8  
Old 06-23-2016, 04:17 AM
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Had the same issue where the spark plug blew out on the freeway and took out the threads from my 3rd cylinder. Went through the same exact thing you're going through right now. Where I live, I was able to rent that tool from O'Reilly's.
 
  #9  
Old 06-23-2016, 07:17 AM
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Very important:before removal of timing chain, mark the chain to cam and crank sprockets!! Then align the marks during re-assembly and watch them during installation of the chain guides!This will eliminate chain slack and prevent timing to be off after re-assembly
 
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Old 06-23-2016, 05:12 PM
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^^ - Listen to him. I actually messed up the timing when working on my car and the car wouldn't start. Had to re-do the whole thing which was a huge waste of time.

Here's pictures I took for reference after I finally got it right. There are different color links and arrows to help you align them. Make sure you get your TDC.




Cam




Crank
 
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  #11  
Old 06-23-2016, 05:39 PM
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This issue ("slack on the tension side") is quite common when doing timing belts too.
This is why good quality belts and chains are having reference marks for proper installation
 
  #12  
Old 06-23-2016, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by kurobaxkaito
Had the same issue where the spark plug blew out on the freeway and took out the threads from my 3rd cylinder. Went through the same exact thing you're going through right now. Where I live, I was able to rent that tool from O'Reilly's.
Hmmm, it was my third cylinder too....
How close is your VIN to JHMGD374X8S069449, wonder if the torque settings were wonkers that day/week at the factory or something?
 
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Old 06-23-2016, 06:38 PM
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And yes, I will definitely go out of my way to mark everything.
 
  #14  
Old 06-24-2016, 04:04 PM
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My is pretty similar I suppose.

JHMGD3 is the same (as it should be) then it's
7668S

8 should be the year and S should be the manufacturing plant I think.

Anyways, my car is 2008 Sport M/T
 
  #15  
Old 06-24-2016, 07:10 PM
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I was performing spark plug change at 63 k miles on 2001 Mazda Tribute V-6. Out of 6 plugs 2 were too tight and one was not tightened all the way. The engine has taper (not gasket, which is more forgiving to toque variation due to the larger "bearing area") type plug seat,
So I used small torque wrench rented from Autozone (and everyone was laughing about it) to torque the new plugs.
 
  #16  
Old 06-24-2016, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by doctor J
I was performing spark plug change at 63 k miles on 2001 Mazda Tribute V-6. Out of 6 plugs 2 were too tight and one was not tightened all the way. The engine has taper (not gasket, which is more forgiving to toque variation due to the larger "bearing area") type plug seat,
So I used small torque wrench rented from Autozone (and everyone was laughing about it) to torque the new plugs.
It was the factory installed plug that came loose last fall, then when I re-installed them I used a torque wrench which had been calibrated about 3 months prior (I'm an aircraft mechanic & we have to torque EVERYTHING)
But yeah, I wish Honda had properly torqued the original plugs.
 
  #17  
Old 08-04-2016, 10:04 PM
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Soooooo.......
After waiting nearly three weeks for the head gasket to come off backorder, then going on my Summer sailing trip I finally got time this week to get it all back together.
Shit started right up & seemed to run as normal, THEN LIKE TWO MINUTES INTO WARMING UP IT SPUTTERED AND DIED, AND NOW IT WON'T RESTART.
I was pretty beat so I called it a night, going to try to go over everything (sensors & stuff?) tomorrow but if anyone's got a pointer it'd be appreciated.
 
  #18  
Old 08-04-2016, 11:22 PM
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pull the valve cover and check for the cam timing.
if normal fuel delivery issue is the second suspect
 
  #19  
Old 08-05-2016, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by doctor J
pull the valve cover and check for the cam timing.
if normal fuel delivery issue is the second suspect
Doesn't seem to be the timing. Got tickets to the Benavidez vs Douglin boxing match up in Philly tonight & have dinner plans tomorrow so hope to check it out further Sunday.

Any pointers on diagnosing a fuel injection issue???
 
  #20  
Old 08-05-2016, 10:43 PM
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Using scanner make sure you got signal from crank sensor (rpms) and cam sensor (timing ) while cranking.
 


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