Hey everyone, I have an issue with my 2008 Honda Fit A/C that is causing the compressor clutch to be engaged for the first 20-30 minutes of travel followed by it disengaging and not reengaging. I have checked the coolant pressure, and it looked low, but the gauge I used didn't move at all when I added coolant to the system. So I do question the validity of that reading. However I want to test the low pressure switch with a voltmeter and have looked all over for it. Where is it located? I also swapped the relays in the fuse box under the hood to see if that was the problem. I have an appointment with a reputable repair shop, but I fear it is the compressor clutch and am hoping to hear otherwise from someone on here. A second symptom/cause is the A/C switch inside the car is stuck in the on position. The only time the light on that button will turn off is when I turn the fan off. It remains on through all the settings (I know it comes on when you put it on defrost). I'm stumped and cannot find a wiring diagram to locate the low pressure switch.

 

Assuming you selected the correct relay to swap, that should have eliminated it as a cause.

So I assume power is being supplied to the clutch coil. Test that.
How about the resistance of the coil? Test that too, probably will be 3.5-4.0 ohms or so if it's good. Test it WHILE the system has quit though. Testing while it works won't reveal a problem.

If the air gap between the outer plate and the pulley is too large, the clutch will quit engaging when it gets hot. They do wear with mileage, and eventually they can do this.

You can try using a lever to push on the outer plate to see if it will click on and grab the spinning pulley again....that would verify everything electrical is present and the air gap is too large.

If so...
Simplest repair attempt would be to remove the outer plate and remove a shim to decrease clearance, see if it continues working after a half hour.

The switch on the dash getting stuck was a somewhat common issue, a replacement AC/Defroster switch should be an improved design. Honda bulletin 09-088 describes this, and gives a part number 35500-SLN-305ZA for the new switch set.

 

I will try that this morning and come back on here and report my findings.

 

So I tapped the clutch and it engaged. Looks like the electronics are all working just worn like you said. Problem is I can't find a shop that will replace the shims for me, they all want to replace the entire compressor assembly. They claim that if they take the clutch plate off there is a high risk of breaking seals and leaking oil.

 

You don't replace the shims, you remove them to decrease the clearance.

IMO if you can reach the front of the compressor, it's an easy DIY that's completely FREE if it works.

Must be scared or are totally unfamiliar with Hondas compressors.
You'd have to be a real hack to damage the seals. Or super careless.

The shop can't put any guarantees on the repair either....and most want lots of parts profit from the parts sales.

 

Example:
8th gen Civic, clutch hub removed, removing the shim(s) with a small magnet
(this one had a field coil failure)

 

yeah im in the same boat, a/c was working for 5 mins and then stops working, after the tech diagnosed it he says the whole compressor gotta be changed (1k parts and labor). Funny after the diag now the a/c doesn't even work at all like he unplugged something... argh

 

1K is a rippoff.. the entire aftermarket ac system in my 94 jeep was about that installed!

 

yeah which is why I'm still trying to shop around, the tech said he would do it for $400 labor if I were to provide my own compressor. But even shopping for that part online or local seems to be a challenge. The tech said if I used his parts then he can at least guarantee some warranty but in this case if I provide the part I have to take the gamble if it doesn't work the way it should.

 

I realize this is an old thread, but I may be able to lend some helpful tips for down the road. ezone's post is on the right track and taking a looksee at your A/C clutch is a pretty easy DIY job. If you have to take it apart, one important thing is spend the money and get yourself a good pro quality snap ring pliers. The snap rings retaining the pulley and coil are EXTREMELY strong and require a lot of force properly applied to remove and replace. My snap ring pliers is Channel Lock 927 8" size about $30 at Home Depot.

To do the job, jack up the front, support securely on jack stands, remove RF wheel, remove the plastic wheel well splash guard by pulling the plastic rivets. There are also a few Philips head screws. I often break one or two rivets so I have extra on hand available at many auto parts stores but I found a better price at a local fastener store who sell everything fastener from nuts and bolts to these plastic rivets. Now you can measure clutch plate clearance with a feeler gauge. It should be between 0.014-0.026".

If not in spec you'll need to remove the triangular armature plate. Remove the nut in center of armature plate on end of A/C compressor shaft. There are special clutch holder tools available but you can make do with this trick. Hold the triangular plate with a long square shank screwdriver to keep it from spinning while removing the nut. Torque to replace is 19 lb-ft. Wedge the screwdriver shank on the fasteners at the points of the triangle plate to gain leverage. With the plate removed, you'll find one or more spacer shim washers on the shaft. Add or remove spacers until you get the right feeler gauge reading. Also check the mating surfaces of the clutch plates. If badly worn, replace. All parts on the A/C compressor shaft are replaceable individually.

My field coil was shot, VOM showed an open circuit. A repair shop quoted me $1050 to replace with reman compressor. I learned that individual parts are available from Honda dealers. A new coil was just over $100. One more benefit was there was no need to open the sealed R134a system to do this repair. It's always best to avoid opening the system. Look up the part numbers on a good website like Bernardi Honda. BTW their factory exploded drawings are very helpful in understanding how things come apart and go together. Almost like a free shop manual.

This job will take a few hours the first time you do it. Much faster the next time around on pretty much any car beyond Hondas. They are all similar. The snap ring pliers will be needed if you need to remove the pulley or the field coil.