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2008 AC condenser fan doesn't spin, but AC works for a while.
Hey there, long time reader and first time poster. I have a base 2008 fit manual with 230k, and it generally runs great. No CEL, no major work done. I picked it up about 2 years back and I've done preventative maintenance to it.
It does have one problem:
The AC works for a while then it blows hot air. The blower fan will keep blowing air into the cabin, but the air ceases to be cold. This can happen maybe 20 minutes into a drive in warmer weather. Reading here, I figured to check relays 10 and 11 in the engine bay fusebox, and the #10 7.5 Amp fuse in the cabin fusebox. I bought the car used and the carfax showed it had "AC recharge" done on it about a year before I got it. I also noticed that the #10 fuse was already replaced, and the twist locker for the cabin fusebox is missing. Hmm.
I tried to measure the voltage going from the condenser fan cable to the condenser fan but it doesn't seem to measure voltage. I believe that the condenser and the fan both share the same input from the ECU, is this correct?
I pulled over on a warm day while the AC was blowing and lifted the hood to verify if both fans were spinning but only the drivers side fan was. So far the passenger side radiator fan/condenser fan has not spun up for me to see it.
I'm concerned about the cooling capability of the primary radiator if half the fans aren't spinning. What should I do now? I have a multimeter and I'm willing to learn more.
Both fans are using common ground point and common trigger point (ECU) the relay coils for both fans are powered with ignition on via fuse 10 and grounded by ECU each fan has its separate power line
1) obtain 2 jumper wires and 9 volt fresh Energizer or Duracell alkaline battery.
Unplug condenser fan and apply power directly to it [brown box on the picture] for short time (polarity is not important at this moment) just to make sure it spins. It may spin slower than usual; if fan works connect it back
2) unplug condenser fan relay and connect test 12 v light to terminal 2 and good ground
if light is off check the fan power supply circuit protected by 30 amp fuse
3) unplug condenser fan relay and connect test 12 v light to terminals 1 and 2 on the relay base [blue light]. The light should be on, if not the fan ground wire is bad
4) connect test light between terminal 4 on the relay base and the good ground [orange light], turn ignition on. If light is on check the green wire from relay base to ECU if good, swap the relay.
5) if light is not on there is a problem is in junction bar B [red box] (I will check the location) and post later
Fantastic advice, thank you! I'll start today. For " 2) unplug condenser fan relay and connect test 12 v light to terminal 2 and good ground" I presume a multimeter would not perform the same action as a multimeter does not have a load, whereas a bulb will?
I really appreciate that you wrote that all out. I'll take pictures and measurements today.
Yes 3.4 watt test lamp is commonly used for most of the circuits (except data lines , of course
The reason I recommend 9 volt battery because if fan is "marginal" it will definitely show up under lower voltage
Ok, I noticed a problem using your first step. The fan spins freely using my hand, but when applying a 9v new battery to the input, it does not spin.
I thrn turned the car on, turned on ac and measured the voltage going to the fan via the connector located above the condenser fan. It measured 14.3v.
So its looking like the fan is defective. Should I replace the fan? If so, do you recommend a brand in particular? Should I perform the other troubleshooting steps?
Also, just in case this is correlated: my ac/defrost buttons had the ac button stuck to on. I replaced with a new oem part. I think you mentioned failed ac buttons tend to pop fuses or relays.
Are you saying your passenger side fan stopped working, then you repaired the clutch and it started working again? Did your fan not work at any point?
I thought that the fan was the problem, brought it to a guy and told him what I observed including the fan not working, his diagnosis/fix was the clutch. As far as I know the fan is still dead, but I have cold air again.
I’m not a tech but that sounds a little dangerous, because if your fan isn’t spinning then the condenser is going to get very hot and the radiator is going to have only 1 fan sucking air. Maybe it’s ok for this small engine, but I think we both should have both fans working so we can trust our cars to not overheat in any situation.
To boltaction:
Seems like a/c fan is failing.
The switch can be defective according to TSB and will blow the fuse#10 but this will effect all fans (and cause engine to overheat)
To confirm that fan is failing (stupid test):
find 9 to 12 volt battery operated cordless tool (2 speed non-impact drill) and take a battery out
a) unplug the fan
b) using jumpers connect tool to the fan power source plug (instead of the fan) and briefly turn a/c on
c) turn on the power tool
If it works there is a high probability that fan is defective
PS you are right about risk of driving with one fan; the fans ate turning at 96 degrees Centigrade and one fan is may not be enough to cool the radiator
I drove 88 Camry with only one fan during winter time and for short distances
2008 AC condenser fan doesn't spin, but AC works for a while.
