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I am having a/c problems with my GE, and I wish I was smart enough to understand everything that is in this thread.
Same here! I was having similar -- although in my case, intermittent for a long time, then progressively worse, to where it didn't work at all this pring -- with my '08 Sport. Between that and a sporadic misfire, I was a little unsure of what to do... and then the clutch started slipping about a month ago, so I traded the car in for a new '19 LX. Hated to do it -- the '08 was still tight, handled great, no structural issues or anything. But these intermittent electrical problems are beyond what I can diagnose myself, and I have a good mechanic, but he doesn't like to do anything until he's really sure what the problem is.... which is a good thing, of course, but...
Dirty orfice filter. the drier can start going bad,
My A/C squeals every time I turn it on, so I've been researching this topic (I have a 2008 Sport). It's probably the compressor. With A/C repairs, I'm learning that a bunch of stuff should be replaced at the same time (compressor, condenser, expansion value, dryer, and O-rings). Flushing the system is of little use because the channels inside the condenser are tiny. With 10-year-old systems, you get rust and crap building up everywhere that can cause premature failure of the new stuff you just replaced. If it's $1,400 to replace the compressor, it's probably $3,000 to replace everything. If your car is 10 years old, it's probably worth about $3,000 total. You are screwed no matter what you do!
My A/C squeals every time I turn it on, so I've been researching this topic (I have a 2008 Sport). It's probably the compressor. With A/C repairs, I'm learning that a bunch of stuff should be replaced at the same time (compressor, condenser, expansion value, dryer, and O-rings). Flushing the system is of little use because the channels inside the condenser are tiny. With 10-year-old systems, you get rust and crap building up everywhere that can cause premature failure of the new stuff you just replaced. If it's $1,400 to replace the compressor, it's probably $3,000 to replace everything. If your car is 10 years old, it's probably worth about $3,000 total. You are screwed no matter what you do!
2007 Fit uses expansion valve not the orifice.
Restricted receiver drier will show up as ice on liquid line from condenser
Nose described here sounds like a serpentine belt noise (glazed belt)
2007 Fit uses expansion valve not the orifice.
Restricted receiver drier will show up as ice on liquid line from condenser
Nose described here sounds like a serpentine belt noise (glazed belt)
The squealing does sound like the belt, but the squealing only occurs when the A/C is turned on. When the A/C is turned off, the squealing stops, and it is repeatable. That's why I think it's the compressor and not the belt or pulley.
The squealing does sound like the belt, but the squealing only occurs when the A/C is turned on. When the A/C is turned off, the squealing stops, and it is repeatable. That's why I think it's the compressor and not the belt or pulley.
A/C compressor put a lot of tension on the belt; the power steering pump does the same
While diagnosis over the internet is never accurate, I've encountered similar issue many times and the problem, indeed, was the belt.
try other belt or rotate existing belt 180 degrees and reinstall.
You can also try to rotate compressor clutch hub clockwise using hub holding tool.
Hi I’m new to this form and was trying to see what went wrong (asides me) with my ac, heating and radiator fan.. so what had happened was I was checking my blinker/reverse lights (I switched them to dual color leds so both would be blinkers and both also reverse lights) and I was using the power from the little light in the trunk of the car to see which wire was power and ground (yes I know I know such a stupid idea!) of course it popped the fuse. I kicked myself and replaced the fuse and all was well. But it wasn’t. I now get no power at all to my climate control. No lights, no fan, no air or heat. I checked EVERY fuse in the car and in the engine bay and all are good.. also (yes it gets better..) I was driving home from work in the heat and my dash lit up indicating overheating. I checked my Bluetooth obd2 sensor and my car was at 250 (I think) low and behold my radiator fan wasn’t even working. So I hardwired it and that worked. So now I have the fan turn on when the car is on to make sure I don’t overheat it. I also tried switching the 2 ac relays and that didn’t solve anything. So what the heck did I screw up?? Please help!
Your prices are way off unless you’re going to the dealership , New compressor $250, condenser with filter drier $50, hoses high/low $100, evaporator with expansion valve $75, hard lines $100, high/low pressure switch $40 ,134a ,orings and miscellaneous $50.This will replace all the mechanical components of the system. You can borrow the tools from Auto Parts store, to leak-test and vacuum the system.
Last edited by JerrySFL; 06-14-2019 at 09:35 PM.
Reason: Additional information
Well, uit still points to fuse 10 under dash.
Remove the fuse and connect test light 3.4 watt bulb instead of it (not so easy but doable) https://shop.harborfreight.com/media...3/63603_W3.jpg
Turn ignition on, the test light should be on (about half of it brightness) and blower motor relay should chatter. If it does replace the fuse and re-check.
Well, uit still points to fuse 10 under dash.
Remove the fuse and connect test light 3.4 watt bulb instead of it (not so easy but doable) https://shop.harborfreight.com/media...3/63603_W3.jpg
Turn ignition on, the test light should be on (about half of it brightness) and blower motor relay should chatter. If it does replace the fuse and re-check.
I freakin love you and this form!!!!!!!! Apparently fuse 10 was MISSING! I have air conditioning now!!! Thank you so so much!!!
Update for anyone who is struggling with this... I finally fixed it. After two mechanics both gave up and said it was probably the computer I finally took it to a Honda dealer. The dealer's initial note was "AC issue duplicated. Connect HDS to vehicle found every time vehicle AC switch on dash is push on under fuse no. 22 keeps blowing rec replacing switch to start with and retest vehicle for any other related issue." The dealer called and I carefully questioned that if they jumpered the switch the AC worked. They swore up and down that it did. Once the switch came in I got a call that it was still not working and now they said it was the computer and quoted $1700 to replace it. Not thrilled that they didn't diagnose past the bad switch properly I opted to get the car back. Their notes after changing the switch state "Replaced AC switch fuse stopped blowing still no command for AC compressor clutch on at switch. Under fuse box has 12 volts at no. 2 terminal clutch clicks when jump at PCM 31P connector and at relay PCM not sending signal to command compressor rec R/R." Not wanting to spend $1700 I eBay'ed an ECM for $50 and had them program it for $130, yet the AC still didn't work. Having had my fill of the dealer I got the car back.
After lots of Googling I learned of the existence of the Electrical Troubleshooting manual. I found a copy for the 2007 Fit (same as 2008 except no TPMS apparently) for $20 on Amazon. A week later it arrived. I knew that if I jumpered the AC clutch relay the air conditioner would come on. I also knew that the fans didn't come on when I pressed the dash switch. Looking at the schematic for the fans the computer turns them on whenever the AC is called for. It is not directly wired to the switch. So this meant the AC switch input wasn't making it to the computer. After looking at the schematic I saw that the compressor thermal protector has two separate functions. There is a thermal fuse in the AC clutch ground which was fine (why the compressor came on when jumpered). But there is a separate thermal switch (which opens above 252 deg F) in the control circuit. This isn't shown on the wiring diagram in the factory service manual available on hondafitjazz.com. The thermal switch was open even when the car was cold. I jumpered it out and the AC works again.
I'm extremely frustrated the dealer was ready to have me spend $1700 when that wasn't the problem. I'm planning on filing a complaint with Honda of America as this was a $40 part with minimal labor to repair. It took me 15 minutes to figure out the schematic (once I had a good one available to me) to get it running. I highly recommend picking up the Electrical Troubleshooting manual (you can get them new from https://www.helminc.com/helm/search_...lm&class_2=AHM but lots are available on eBay/Amazon). Hope this helps someone else!
Can you tell me where the second thermal switch is located
05-12-2019, 11:36 AM
