GE8 K-SWAP. The future is not so distant anymore
you sir are smarter than me when it comes to this stuff, so i dont doubt you. I just got back on this site last night, and havent found any Lseries build.......if you wouldnt mind, could you point me in the direction of a built Lseries that includes all the parts they got????? 
Which build? What are your goals?
Theres nothing stopping you from doing the swap, nor do I want to, I am just saying look at the reality of what you are doing and what is available for both platforms before you just throw cash at it and leave it in the hands of someone else.
Parts for build A at X whp/wtq are not necessarily needed nor appropriate for build B at Y whp/wtq..
If you search these here internets, you can find everything you need.
Its not that I am smarter than you, I just do more research it would seem and have more wrench time under my belt perhaps.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Apr 26, 2012 at 01:28 PM.
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 36
From: saratoga springs, utah
well currently if i can get away with at least 230whp for cheaper on the L, i would like to go that route, seeing as how i'm a full time student. It is my daily and have around 40k on the motor. I want more umph! and i also want to put some "beastly" cars to shame ha. I remember the feeling when people would race me in my accord and be shamed when i beat them ha. If custom fab is needed for certain things, that is no issue. i'm currently reading through your thread of your 3 turbo build. Very impressive, how much did that set you back??
Well, you atleast have power to weight on your side, and relatively short gearing. So a little dab'll do ya and 230whp will surprise a lot of people ask TexasCoyote whos gotta be close to that.
230whp can be done with surprisingly little effort on the L15. To do everything to the "T" not skimping on anything including fasteners, hoses and clamps will run you ~$3500.
What fuel do you have available? What altitude?
At 230whp and comparable torque I would consider a T3 footprint turbo, journal bearing CHRA, and something in the neighborhood of a ~45mm compressor.
If you are die-hard Garrett/PTE etc as a bunch of Honda guys inexplicably are.. do what I recommend to a bunch of folks over seas and use the GT2860RS, the 0.82 turbine housing would be ideal for making efficient power all the way out the top of the rev range. It'll be better on pump gas and you'll make more whp/psi in the bigger housing on the bigger turbine with that compressor wheel at the other end.
Trust me on this one. azkikers (arton) from Bahrain and ANNNGER from Jakarta love that turbo, and are both making as much or more then you intend to and have been for a year or so now on a system of my design.
Especially if you are in an area where you have only 89oct fuel listed as premium like so many areas out west do when the elevation is more than a couple thousand feet above sea level.
Depending on the answer to my previous two questions ofcourse.
As far as my build?
It's still in progress and it is probably going to run me ~$4500, which may seem comparatively low, but I already have most of what I need on hand, a bevy of suppliers Ive been working with (some for years) and a couple friendly fabricators and machinists in the area.
The exhaust side fabrication, external oil system and electronics are whats going to make up the rest of that number.
Taking longer than I would like of course.. but I've got a lot going on, including a new house and the race car, in addition to projects for other people and a 40+ hour/week work engagement.
230whp can be done with surprisingly little effort on the L15. To do everything to the "T" not skimping on anything including fasteners, hoses and clamps will run you ~$3500.
What fuel do you have available? What altitude?
At 230whp and comparable torque I would consider a T3 footprint turbo, journal bearing CHRA, and something in the neighborhood of a ~45mm compressor.
If you are die-hard Garrett/PTE etc as a bunch of Honda guys inexplicably are.. do what I recommend to a bunch of folks over seas and use the GT2860RS, the 0.82 turbine housing would be ideal for making efficient power all the way out the top of the rev range. It'll be better on pump gas and you'll make more whp/psi in the bigger housing on the bigger turbine with that compressor wheel at the other end.
Trust me on this one. azkikers (arton) from Bahrain and ANNNGER from Jakarta love that turbo, and are both making as much or more then you intend to and have been for a year or so now on a system of my design.
Especially if you are in an area where you have only 89oct fuel listed as premium like so many areas out west do when the elevation is more than a couple thousand feet above sea level.
Depending on the answer to my previous two questions ofcourse.
As far as my build?
It's still in progress and it is probably going to run me ~$4500, which may seem comparatively low, but I already have most of what I need on hand, a bevy of suppliers Ive been working with (some for years) and a couple friendly fabricators and machinists in the area.
The exhaust side fabrication, external oil system and electronics are whats going to make up the rest of that number.
Taking longer than I would like of course.. but I've got a lot going on, including a new house and the race car, in addition to projects for other people and a 40+ hour/week work engagement.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Apr 26, 2012 at 02:17 PM.
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 36
From: saratoga springs, utah
damn you sure do know your stuff! and when you talk about higher elevations and 89 octane, i live in utah so we got that here! $3500 is still pretty cheap in my eyes! So this is all in lou of having stock internals correct?
your build is looking amazing, i saw that your running 3 turbos! good god lol
your build is looking amazing, i saw that your running 3 turbos! good god lol
To Most people the price would be considered out of their comfort zone in their pockets but with a little saving for a few months I can get a shop to do this for me. I might even go in after work just to see if I can help out at all. I know some mechanical skills but I can't do this all on my own. I have never pulled a civilian vehicle engine before and feel uncomfortable doing it by myself. I am used to pulling military vehicle engines left and right with no problem and we use a 10ton crane to help.
I am probably going to be getting this done within the next 9 to 10 months of saving. I think by Tax Time next year I will take it to them and let them mess with it. MN and another guy gave me some parts to try out so I will run it by my mech friend up there and see what he thinks. He already knows what trans he wants me to use, these guys are a lot like what krazekid is talking about, they build sick civics that wipe the floor on mustangs. So I know they will get me good parts for a good price.
But I want to wish you luck with your swap man, I know we will need it. We got a few things to figure out for the rest of these "warranty kids" so when their time comes they will know what to do.
Personally I like the way the Fit looks, its just extremely underpowered. So why not dump cash into it to make it where its supposed to be or maybe even faster. The guy talking about upgrading seats....so just cause we are k swapping means we are circuit racing??? That doesn't make sense at all, maybe if you were racing then yea I can see why seats fit but jeez we aren't but hitting a little over 200HP on a stock K series. Calm down man. Just breathe lol its not the end of the world if people don't put seats in their cars lol. More or less take them out to help with the weight.
Nope. Sadly. Try next year after the shop is done with mine. I'll have all the parts they used down on a canvas poster and will let you all know. They are charging me 8k for the swap, thats parts and labor. So hopefully soon time will tell how it was made.
if a complete kit was available for the K i would be all over it. like most people here, its hard for me to get around with just 1 DD. i was planning on being the guinea pig again for the K swap but i backed out. JDM front is enough for me. after i see a build for the K, best believe, imma be all over it!
Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 212
From: Northern NJ
I dream of a K20 under the hood of my Fit almost daily. Even so, I do still love driving the Fit balls out and not have to worry about going to fast for the cops to pull me over.
As far as seats go, I still believe that if you are adding power and speed to your car, which was not designed for a high speeds, I would upgrade brakes, suspension, seats and so on and so forth. My old Evo X could handle the extra 100 or so HP i added, because it already had brakes, suspension and seats that were made for that. 100HP extra in a stock Fit? I personally would not risk that. I dont feel its safe, since if you are adding power you are probably going to use the extra power. But that's for each person to decide.
But I am going to upgrade my stock Fit seats anyway, even though I have a stock Fit engine, because I need something to hold me better in the corners.
I upgraded my wheels and tires, and the handling difference is night and day. I take corners pretty much at the limit every day, but have to hold myself in place in the seat. I cant have that anymore. I will be upgrading the seats very soon.
As far as seats go, I still believe that if you are adding power and speed to your car, which was not designed for a high speeds, I would upgrade brakes, suspension, seats and so on and so forth. My old Evo X could handle the extra 100 or so HP i added, because it already had brakes, suspension and seats that were made for that. 100HP extra in a stock Fit? I personally would not risk that. I dont feel its safe, since if you are adding power you are probably going to use the extra power. But that's for each person to decide.
But I am going to upgrade my stock Fit seats anyway, even though I have a stock Fit engine, because I need something to hold me better in the corners.
I upgraded my wheels and tires, and the handling difference is night and day. I take corners pretty much at the limit every day, but have to hold myself in place in the seat. I cant have that anymore. I will be upgrading the seats very soon.
New Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 15
From: Elm
Okay so here's my dilemma...
I've built the fit up enough to be content...it takes a couple sweepers faster than my Evo and I've taken guys in the turns of a couple short course with them driving TTB class (almost stock) STI's.
I'm in an open group currently because I f'd around too much thinking that I'll soon be able to drop in a K series, turbo it and tun Redline.
This is where it gets tricky,
***AERO***
I've built a custom underpanel with a rear diffuser, a generator with a slip wing and a front spoiler and underpanel with cooling ducts for the brakes.
***BRAKES***
I've done a conversion to a rear caliper from the factory drum and have a set of lightweight Willwoods sitting to get installed with 2 piece rotors, fully braided brake line set up and was going to do an ABS delete mod.
***SAFETY***
BuddyClub XL Racing Seats (I'm a big boy HAHA), Flocked Dash and soon to be installed cage (per FIA regulation) and OMP Racing Harnesses.
***Tuning***
I'll be building a custom aluminum cluster housing an IQ3 and most likely running a Vipec V88 Box or Haltech 2000.
***Transmission***
Recently received an Exedy clutch and just spoke with an Exedy rep that is able to get me an HD series clutch plate (2mm thicker) with an enhanced cover that I will need to drill the flywheel to fit (but the dimensions are the same) which I'd like to get rid of since I want to swap the motor anyway (but if I find a turbo then BAM). I've also done a refresh on the trans and tightened up the diff and tolerances in the gears, will have to run a GL5 series oil due to the tightness but it should shift like butta.
***POWER***
Panel Filter, spark plugs and 100 octane from the pump...yeah, that's it...and it doesn't run that well under vtech on the 100 but it moved out next to my buddies when were went from a 10mph roll...started spinning the all seasons actually.
***Suspension, wheels, tires***
D2 Racing Coilovers with custom spring rates and valving. Enkie NT03-M Wheels with 225/35/17 Hancook RS3's (have a set of Star Specs for the wet since the Hancooks really suck that bad in the wet). I'll be sourcing a set of 16inch Wedsport or RPF1's because while I get great turn in with the 17s, I don't have the same rotation and start to loose speed though turns post apex. It's just hard to find the right offset with teh bolt pattern which I'm looking into the splines and hub sizes and going to see if I can get a hub from an SI to work on there.
So now...I'm kinda stuck because A) I can't keep up with TSX's or really the majority of cars in the straights in longer courses like Road America, Autobahn Full (specifically south course), the back at Gingerman or VIR...Mid Ohio is still not too bad, Putnam and Blackhawks was still okay.
Now that the car is getting torn down and the aspirations have risen to run wild at TA...I'm at a loss. I've been able to get all this way and finally say that I've had enough with the lack of support on this thing. I have one for a DD because I drive 72miles each way for work and love it but I've well surpassed B-spec to take the "blk_ninja" down a few notches.
If someone can point me in the right direction...I'd be greatfull. If this means to build custom mounts and what not...so be it (but that's the last thing I want to deal with) and having already spoken with Skunk and a few others, nothing is really in the works for this thing. I'm also getting a hint that a turbo might be on the rise which I have no issue fabbing up the components but WHY?!?!?! I don't want to do that either, I still have so much to do and I wanted to run a wheel to wheel system with a few guys in late August and October but IDK what's gonna happen now.
If anyone has any info, let me know, PM me, throw up a link...I don't care, I can have pipes only. I'd make a custom intercooler and run a Comp turbo anyways.
Thank you for your time with this and when I get chance to finish the project up of course I'll throw in some pics.
-Mark
I've built the fit up enough to be content...it takes a couple sweepers faster than my Evo and I've taken guys in the turns of a couple short course with them driving TTB class (almost stock) STI's.
I'm in an open group currently because I f'd around too much thinking that I'll soon be able to drop in a K series, turbo it and tun Redline.
This is where it gets tricky,
***AERO***
I've built a custom underpanel with a rear diffuser, a generator with a slip wing and a front spoiler and underpanel with cooling ducts for the brakes.
***BRAKES***
I've done a conversion to a rear caliper from the factory drum and have a set of lightweight Willwoods sitting to get installed with 2 piece rotors, fully braided brake line set up and was going to do an ABS delete mod.
***SAFETY***
BuddyClub XL Racing Seats (I'm a big boy HAHA), Flocked Dash and soon to be installed cage (per FIA regulation) and OMP Racing Harnesses.
***Tuning***
I'll be building a custom aluminum cluster housing an IQ3 and most likely running a Vipec V88 Box or Haltech 2000.
***Transmission***
Recently received an Exedy clutch and just spoke with an Exedy rep that is able to get me an HD series clutch plate (2mm thicker) with an enhanced cover that I will need to drill the flywheel to fit (but the dimensions are the same) which I'd like to get rid of since I want to swap the motor anyway (but if I find a turbo then BAM). I've also done a refresh on the trans and tightened up the diff and tolerances in the gears, will have to run a GL5 series oil due to the tightness but it should shift like butta.
***POWER***
Panel Filter, spark plugs and 100 octane from the pump...yeah, that's it...and it doesn't run that well under vtech on the 100 but it moved out next to my buddies when were went from a 10mph roll...started spinning the all seasons actually.
***Suspension, wheels, tires***
D2 Racing Coilovers with custom spring rates and valving. Enkie NT03-M Wheels with 225/35/17 Hancook RS3's (have a set of Star Specs for the wet since the Hancooks really suck that bad in the wet). I'll be sourcing a set of 16inch Wedsport or RPF1's because while I get great turn in with the 17s, I don't have the same rotation and start to loose speed though turns post apex. It's just hard to find the right offset with teh bolt pattern which I'm looking into the splines and hub sizes and going to see if I can get a hub from an SI to work on there.
So now...I'm kinda stuck because A) I can't keep up with TSX's or really the majority of cars in the straights in longer courses like Road America, Autobahn Full (specifically south course), the back at Gingerman or VIR...Mid Ohio is still not too bad, Putnam and Blackhawks was still okay.
Now that the car is getting torn down and the aspirations have risen to run wild at TA...I'm at a loss. I've been able to get all this way and finally say that I've had enough with the lack of support on this thing. I have one for a DD because I drive 72miles each way for work and love it but I've well surpassed B-spec to take the "blk_ninja" down a few notches.
If someone can point me in the right direction...I'd be greatfull. If this means to build custom mounts and what not...so be it (but that's the last thing I want to deal with) and having already spoken with Skunk and a few others, nothing is really in the works for this thing. I'm also getting a hint that a turbo might be on the rise which I have no issue fabbing up the components but WHY?!?!?! I don't want to do that either, I still have so much to do and I wanted to run a wheel to wheel system with a few guys in late August and October but IDK what's gonna happen now.
If anyone has any info, let me know, PM me, throw up a link...I don't care, I can have pipes only. I'd make a custom intercooler and run a Comp turbo anyways.
Thank you for your time with this and when I get chance to finish the project up of course I'll throw in some pics.
-Mark
... *subject flys over head*
Ummm well the shop that I am talking to said seeing there are no mounts they have to find someone who can custom make them.
I saw a GE with a B16 Swap on Youtube. It was keeping up with a Porsche and something else, not sure what it was. But yea just thought I would share that. So not only is the GE K swapped but B swapped as well lol. We are rising in swaps over seas but stuck over here. Wtf!? lol
Ummm well the shop that I am talking to said seeing there are no mounts they have to find someone who can custom make them.
I saw a GE with a B16 Swap on Youtube. It was keeping up with a Porsche and something else, not sure what it was. But yea just thought I would share that. So not only is the GE K swapped but B swapped as well lol. We are rising in swaps over seas but stuck over here. Wtf!? lol
Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,899
From: tx
Didn't know tolerances could be adjusted on the gears. You made them closer together, correct?
--
Also, ^^^somebody help this man, so he doesn't ditch the Fit in search of more power!
New Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 15
From: Elm
What I did was double syncro second and third by adding a shim to the shaft and trimming the sleeve 2mm's. (I WOULD NOT DO THIS AGAIN AS I RUINED 300 BUCKS IN PRODUCT BEFORE I GOT IT RIGHT! AAAAAND I HAD HELP WITH A RALLY TECH ON TRANSMISSION!!!!) Since every shim is different, what I had to do was go through pretty much every washer and shim option that there was available just to get the hypoid, diff, gearset, seeves and hubs as well as the rails in place as tightly as I can.
Remember, gears push apart from each other, this means that gears will shear and split cases as they are pushing and trying to hold them stable at higher output levels means you need to get them as close together as possible.
Seeing that it takes Syncromesh means there is sloppy, loosely built gearing and whatnot so that was the fix for when I wanted to have about double the power.
The best options are to leave it alone, because unless your a fat bastard with no time on your hands like I am and have the most ridiculous thoughts about what to do and make the car better...then well...here you go. I would NOT do that again though, I'd rather see what type of bell housing I can make to make a LS or type R trans fit. There is a company in EU that also makes housing to fit up to almost any Honda and run a Dog Box or Sequential system but with the case, your looking at about 10G's for a dog and 20 for a sequential (we use them for the rally builds on Subaru's and Evo's).
Then I WPC treated gearest, rails, forks and sleeves with REM forks, rails and gears as well. The tolerances are heightened in adding those services alone.
Still not sure how the trans will run under power but I did roll it on the lift to make sure the diff and everything engaged. It feels like a Getrag in second and third now (notchy even with a counterweight knob).
The trans prep was really for running with the big boys and just in case (because I've never missed a gear) I slip up, I won't blow the trans up...don't know what it feels like to miss a gear actually. Felt lockout and had to double clutch but never missed. It's like, if you've never rolled a car you're scared of it, if you've never been in an accident, you're scared of it...same premise. (I've rolled a car and have totaled one into a barrier after getting clip by a shitstang in my evo when I was running True Street at Road America).
I actually wasn't really that aware of the Fit Forums until I started looking around for help with a clutch option, so far I can say that the forums have been huge help. I too would like to assist, I see that there are a few guys looking for some technical stuff, ECU pinouts and things like that. Since I'm wiring in a box, I'll get that posted up when I get a chance and I'll see what I can do with the motor.
Just ordered a head to check factory flow rates and what can be done with the head, cams, valvetrain and what not. Headgames will be receiving it after we've done a few measurements for those who will be interested in the next couple months.
The block, well, waiting to see if building it up on a turbo or swapping it will be the next option...taking a look at that in the next month or so.
Is there a difference in the GD to GE block and head (the head I would assume so but the block?)
-Mark
Remember, gears push apart from each other, this means that gears will shear and split cases as they are pushing and trying to hold them stable at higher output levels means you need to get them as close together as possible.
Seeing that it takes Syncromesh means there is sloppy, loosely built gearing and whatnot so that was the fix for when I wanted to have about double the power.
The best options are to leave it alone, because unless your a fat bastard with no time on your hands like I am and have the most ridiculous thoughts about what to do and make the car better...then well...here you go. I would NOT do that again though, I'd rather see what type of bell housing I can make to make a LS or type R trans fit. There is a company in EU that also makes housing to fit up to almost any Honda and run a Dog Box or Sequential system but with the case, your looking at about 10G's for a dog and 20 for a sequential (we use them for the rally builds on Subaru's and Evo's).
Then I WPC treated gearest, rails, forks and sleeves with REM forks, rails and gears as well. The tolerances are heightened in adding those services alone.
Still not sure how the trans will run under power but I did roll it on the lift to make sure the diff and everything engaged. It feels like a Getrag in second and third now (notchy even with a counterweight knob).
The trans prep was really for running with the big boys and just in case (because I've never missed a gear) I slip up, I won't blow the trans up...don't know what it feels like to miss a gear actually. Felt lockout and had to double clutch but never missed. It's like, if you've never rolled a car you're scared of it, if you've never been in an accident, you're scared of it...same premise. (I've rolled a car and have totaled one into a barrier after getting clip by a shitstang in my evo when I was running True Street at Road America).
I actually wasn't really that aware of the Fit Forums until I started looking around for help with a clutch option, so far I can say that the forums have been huge help. I too would like to assist, I see that there are a few guys looking for some technical stuff, ECU pinouts and things like that. Since I'm wiring in a box, I'll get that posted up when I get a chance and I'll see what I can do with the motor.
Just ordered a head to check factory flow rates and what can be done with the head, cams, valvetrain and what not. Headgames will be receiving it after we've done a few measurements for those who will be interested in the next couple months.
The block, well, waiting to see if building it up on a turbo or swapping it will be the next option...taking a look at that in the next month or so.
Is there a difference in the GD to GE block and head (the head I would assume so but the block?)
-Mark
