D16 anyone?
#1
D16 anyone?
Ppl always flip about the l15. The d series engine is bullet proof. Swap that shiznit in. Cheapest swap ever. Same size same weight more potential. A totaled civic can be had for less than a grand. New rods while it's out and the world is yours. Can anyone see any hang ups?
#2
Is this a real question?
I'm just gonna throw this out there........... Wiring, cut/welding mounts, getting your dash/heater/everydamn thing in the car to work. Hondas b can system used tons of processors that all communicate. If the Ecu isn't hooked up, none of it will work.
I'm just gonna throw this out there........... Wiring, cut/welding mounts, getting your dash/heater/everydamn thing in the car to work. Hondas b can system used tons of processors that all communicate. If the Ecu isn't hooked up, none of it will work.
#4
first problem would be mounting the engine in since it spins the opposite way of the l15. people in thailand have swapped in b series into the gd3.
be the first to give it a try, you might be onto something big...
be the first to give it a try, you might be onto something big...
#5
OP if you're going to go through all the trouble of swapping an engine into a yazz, might as well not fuck around and just get a k20
#6
I'm trying keep it as simple as I can. K20 has no room in the already cramped bay and a fwd only needs about 200hp to be competitive. Easy achieved from a turbo d series. K20 hasn't been done because its too much work with no pay off in the market. If someone diy'd a d16 ppl would jump on this as it is an easily obtain and boosted engine
#8
at least for the K-swap there ARE parts out there to do the swap, how about the d? I have not seen any mounts, harnesses, axles and so on to swap a d into a Fit. Why not throw a turbo on the car if all you want a d for is to turbo it.
#9
If you're going to do all that work might as well use a B series at least. You get more power and stock LSD if you use the right trans. As far as I can tell it'd fit fine in the stock bay since it fits fine in GD bay.
If you really love the D series, I don't see any reason you couldn't swap it in if you had mounts custom made and did the wiring. You'd have to find axles that work or have some custom made, get D16z6 with Si trans and swap the whole thing in.
If you really love the D series, I don't see any reason you couldn't swap it in if you had mounts custom made and did the wiring. You'd have to find axles that work or have some custom made, get D16z6 with Si trans and swap the whole thing in.
#10
Why run a boosted 1.6 when you can run the K20 and get a more reliable (stock) motor? It just seems like a no brainer to me.
K20 > L/B/D/H
K20 > L/B/D/H
#11
#12
I've heard a rumor that the Fit is more aerodynamic going in reverse. You should definitely try this.
#13
One could make the argument that a boosted B16 that was as streetable and user friendly would be just as expensive in the long run as a K20. I wouldn't waste my time with a high mileage motor, but thats just me. You're already doing a swap....do it right.
#14
the problem most people have is the county laws say you can add a motor that is older then the chassis year.
if price is the problem then it would be cheapest by far to buy a set of rods and pistons and create a boosted l15a. In thailand, I think, there is a guy with a 400hp L15a.
if price is the problem then it would be cheapest by far to buy a set of rods and pistons and create a boosted l15a. In thailand, I think, there is a guy with a 400hp L15a.
#15
There are several problems with swapping a D-series into a Fit. 1 of which being emissions standards in the U.S.A. It is illegal to convert to an engine that comes from a previous generation. In this case, you would be taking an engine (assuming you used a VTEC D16) that was produced from 1988-2001, and putting into a 2006+ vehicle. It would never pass an emissions test in the United States, and would probably get you slapped with a hefty fine or maybe prison time as it is a felony to do so. States like the one I live in (Arkansas) without emissions tests could possibly get away with doing so, but it would just take one call from a shop to get you into legal trouble. I'm not sure about other nations, but I'm sure they have similar standards. The reason you can get away with it in other Honda platforms is because they used the same engine family/same displacement and it can be hidden from your insurance company. This is why so many companies and individuals are investing in K-series swaps. If you pay attention, it is that way with almost any aftermarket; there will be a lot of support for powertrains that came later, but not before. This is not like an older GM car where to swap in a 350 small block for your 250 inline six, you just buy the OE hardware for the models that came with it.
If you notice, most of the Fit/Jazz cars you see with other engines besides an L-series and a K-series are track cars ONLY.
2) The rotation. The L-series is stated as rotating clockwise while a D-series engine rotates counterclockwise. This would be an issue, but maybe not as big of one as number one. I noticed when I bought my Fit that the transmission was on the opposite side of the engine bay compared to my Del Sol. The clockwise rotation is most likely because of the exhaust manifold being in the rear of the engine bay and the intake manifold upfront (as opposed to previous Honda engines, where the exhaust manifold was in the front and intake manifold to the rear, with the exhaust running under the oil pan.), so as long as this was taken into account, I am sure it could be mounted properly and the rotation would not be an issue.
3) Lack of parts to do this swap. A majority of it would be custom work, including mounts, headers, exhaust, possibly crossmember, wiring harness, among a number of other small pieces. I don't know how you would make your mounts, but CnC machining is expensive business when it's a custom job. Also, you would be turning from a Drive By Wire car to a cable throttle, which would require you to completely fabricate a throttle linkage and use a new pedal as well. Not only that, but the Fit has an active braking system that adjusts the bias as you drive (straight from the Honda literature if you don't believe me.), and without the proper ECU this would be unusable, which means you would also be changing your brake hardware. There is more on top of that; if you wanted cruise control, you'd be SOL. Most Drive-by-wire cars control cruise control through the ECU, due to the fact it does not need an external mechanical linkage to control the throttle, it can do it with the electronic motor inside. Not only that, but ABS would also be a problem, as most OBD-1 D-series cars did not have ABS (Del Sols didn't have ABS even as an option until 1994; I know this for a fact because my 1993 did not have ABS, and there are no OE parts for ABS on 1992 or 1993 Del Sols.). There is a whole slough of other conflicts, including your HUD, headlights, taillights, turn signals, horn, keyless entry/immobilizer, and VSA.
4) You would have no support for a driveline for that swap. You would be completely on your own in making an axle for that swap. Also, the L15A shafts are a bit smaller than D16Z6 axles to my eyes.
Also, this is my two cents, but definitely has some merit to it: If you look at the kind of vehicles that came with a D16, they were mostly smaller, lightweight cars that weighted 2500 pounds or less, with the exception of the Del Sol S and Si. Most Fits weigh more than that. Not only that, but the L15A7 has significantly more torque than a D16Z6. The ratings are the same, but the L15A7 peaks much earlier (4800 versus 5200 RPMs) than the D16z6 on torque. There's not a doubt in my mind that my Fit would have beat my Del Sol. In my opinion, if you were to put an EG Civic equipped with a stock D16z6 with a P28 ECU and a 2009 Honda Fit--also stock--in a straight-line race, I believe the Fit would be quicker each time.
It may be more expensive, but you would be far better off at spending your money into boosting the L15 or swapping in a K. It has been done, there is a wide base of parts to do so, and people have done it and know the common problems (which saves a lot of time, believe me. When dad and I rebuilt our D16Z6 after it hydrolocked, we were going off of a Chilton's and Hayne's manual with no experience and it took forever to repair. After that, I rebuilt an H22A engine in a matter of weeks as opposed to months. Learning from someone else's mistakes saves you time which means everything on a daily driven car).
If you want to do it that bad, no one is stopping you, but you were warned. I think your loss would significantly outweigh your benefit. What do you really gain? No clutch delay valve? No drive by wire? No integrated exhaust manifold?
The problem with the L-series is not that it is a powerless engine. It is significantly held-back by the way the ECU learns (it learns for fuel economy, not best performance, which is why some people have reported massive gains with just tuning through a Unichip and wideband--a piggyback through the OBD-2 port that just changes your MAF voltage will just be learned around by the ECU), the incredibly small ports (which can be fixed with a good port and polish job), and the total weight of the car. If you REALLY want a faster Fit, you would be far better off stripping your interior removing your back seats and replacing your fronts wight lighter Fits, getting the lightest wheels you can, re-tuning your ECU through a standalone EMS), and lessening as much weight as you can. Best bang for the buck right there, considering stripping your interior costs nothing.
If you notice, most of the Fit/Jazz cars you see with other engines besides an L-series and a K-series are track cars ONLY.
2) The rotation. The L-series is stated as rotating clockwise while a D-series engine rotates counterclockwise. This would be an issue, but maybe not as big of one as number one. I noticed when I bought my Fit that the transmission was on the opposite side of the engine bay compared to my Del Sol. The clockwise rotation is most likely because of the exhaust manifold being in the rear of the engine bay and the intake manifold upfront (as opposed to previous Honda engines, where the exhaust manifold was in the front and intake manifold to the rear, with the exhaust running under the oil pan.), so as long as this was taken into account, I am sure it could be mounted properly and the rotation would not be an issue.
3) Lack of parts to do this swap. A majority of it would be custom work, including mounts, headers, exhaust, possibly crossmember, wiring harness, among a number of other small pieces. I don't know how you would make your mounts, but CnC machining is expensive business when it's a custom job. Also, you would be turning from a Drive By Wire car to a cable throttle, which would require you to completely fabricate a throttle linkage and use a new pedal as well. Not only that, but the Fit has an active braking system that adjusts the bias as you drive (straight from the Honda literature if you don't believe me.), and without the proper ECU this would be unusable, which means you would also be changing your brake hardware. There is more on top of that; if you wanted cruise control, you'd be SOL. Most Drive-by-wire cars control cruise control through the ECU, due to the fact it does not need an external mechanical linkage to control the throttle, it can do it with the electronic motor inside. Not only that, but ABS would also be a problem, as most OBD-1 D-series cars did not have ABS (Del Sols didn't have ABS even as an option until 1994; I know this for a fact because my 1993 did not have ABS, and there are no OE parts for ABS on 1992 or 1993 Del Sols.). There is a whole slough of other conflicts, including your HUD, headlights, taillights, turn signals, horn, keyless entry/immobilizer, and VSA.
4) You would have no support for a driveline for that swap. You would be completely on your own in making an axle for that swap. Also, the L15A shafts are a bit smaller than D16Z6 axles to my eyes.
Also, this is my two cents, but definitely has some merit to it: If you look at the kind of vehicles that came with a D16, they were mostly smaller, lightweight cars that weighted 2500 pounds or less, with the exception of the Del Sol S and Si. Most Fits weigh more than that. Not only that, but the L15A7 has significantly more torque than a D16Z6. The ratings are the same, but the L15A7 peaks much earlier (4800 versus 5200 RPMs) than the D16z6 on torque. There's not a doubt in my mind that my Fit would have beat my Del Sol. In my opinion, if you were to put an EG Civic equipped with a stock D16z6 with a P28 ECU and a 2009 Honda Fit--also stock--in a straight-line race, I believe the Fit would be quicker each time.
It may be more expensive, but you would be far better off at spending your money into boosting the L15 or swapping in a K. It has been done, there is a wide base of parts to do so, and people have done it and know the common problems (which saves a lot of time, believe me. When dad and I rebuilt our D16Z6 after it hydrolocked, we were going off of a Chilton's and Hayne's manual with no experience and it took forever to repair. After that, I rebuilt an H22A engine in a matter of weeks as opposed to months. Learning from someone else's mistakes saves you time which means everything on a daily driven car).
If you want to do it that bad, no one is stopping you, but you were warned. I think your loss would significantly outweigh your benefit. What do you really gain? No clutch delay valve? No drive by wire? No integrated exhaust manifold?
The problem with the L-series is not that it is a powerless engine. It is significantly held-back by the way the ECU learns (it learns for fuel economy, not best performance, which is why some people have reported massive gains with just tuning through a Unichip and wideband--a piggyback through the OBD-2 port that just changes your MAF voltage will just be learned around by the ECU), the incredibly small ports (which can be fixed with a good port and polish job), and the total weight of the car. If you REALLY want a faster Fit, you would be far better off stripping your interior removing your back seats and replacing your fronts wight lighter Fits, getting the lightest wheels you can, re-tuning your ECU through a standalone EMS), and lessening as much weight as you can. Best bang for the buck right there, considering stripping your interior costs nothing.
#16
L. O. L. Someone hasn't been a d series owner long. It would all work out son. What shop is going to call me in? The fit goes to my shop. Only. Ever. The custom fab work is a no brainer. That goes without saying. The fits weight is actually less than once the l series assembly is removed and replaced. And the d series would be waaaaayyyy more reliable than a boosted l15. Long story short- the turbo dohc zc in my garage is getting put in. I'll take pics. And relish the haters
#17
L. O. L. Someone hasn't been a d series owner long. It would all work out son. What shop is going to call me in? The fit goes to my shop. Only. Ever. The custom fab work is a no brainer. That goes without saying. The fits weight is actually less than once the l series assembly is removed and replaced. And the d series would be waaaaayyyy more reliable than a boosted l15. Long story short- the turbo dohc zc in my garage is getting put in. I'll take pics. And relish the haters
Sorry if it sounded like I was hating on the D-series, I like the D-series. Just was stating why it's not feasible for some people.
Please do make a thread and post pictures, I'm going to enjoy seenig this.
#19
....There won't ever be pictures because this isn't going to ever happen. To much work for to little payoff.