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Hitch won't accept bike rack

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  #1  
Old 08-01-2010, 05:47 PM
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Hitch won't accept bike rack

I need some help from those who installed the Draw Tight or Hidden Hitch.

Mine seems to have an indentation on one of the sides and it prevents my Yakima bike rack from being able to lock in since I cannot line up the holes.

Do you guy have this indentation as well or did I get a bad one?

Please advise before I contact the manufacture.

Thanks guys.

Outside View:

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Inside View:

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  #2  
Old 08-01-2010, 10:55 PM
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Looks like it goes in far enough, just angled up. Can you pull down on the rack to line up the hole??
 
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:45 AM
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I have that hitch- although although the little bump is on the right side on mine. I have a swagman bike rack and it fits fine- You need to wiggle it a bit to get it in just right until rack clicks into the hole.
 
  #4  
Old 08-02-2010, 08:05 AM
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You could always hack-saw a little off the end of the bike rack.
 
  #5  
Old 08-02-2010, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Krimson_Cardnal
Looks like it goes in far enough, just angled up. Can you pull down on the rack to line up the hole??
Originally Posted by sooznd
I have that hitch- although although the little bump is on the right side on mine. I have a swagman bike rack and it fits fine- You need to wiggle it a bit to get it in just right until rack clicks into the hole.
Guys, thanks for the advise. Believe me, I have used this Yakima bike rack on my past cars (also with draw tight hitches) and I know exactly how to install it. That indentation, which sticks inside the receiver, won't allow my rack to go in deep enough so I can't line up the holes.

Trust me, when I get this figured out, I will post pics of the Yakima bike rack and my "Everlast" cargo carrier and some install advise.

Originally Posted by LeafEater
You could always hack-saw a little off the end of the bike rack.
I thought about that too (great minds think alike?), but would have preferred not to "hack up" my Yakima with a "hack saw" if I just happened to receive a defective item.
 
  #6  
Old 08-02-2010, 12:37 PM
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Ok here is some reference photos.

I too have the draw tight/ hidden hitch. I also have the dimple.





I use the etrailer 2 bike folding rack seen here...
2 Bike Hitch Mounted Folding Rack w Frame Mount Cradles for 1-1/4" Hitch Tow Ready Hitch Bike Racks 63120

Here is a pic of the length of my rack (from end to the hole)


Here is a pic of the length of my hitch from dimple to hole. (center of dimple)


As you can see I have 1/2"+ clearance to my dimple. How long is your Yakima bike rack (end to hole)?
How far back is your dimple?

Hope the pics help.
 

Last edited by Committobefit08; 08-02-2010 at 12:45 PM.
  #7  
Old 08-02-2010, 01:04 PM
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First, thank you so much for taking the time to post pics, measurements and advise.

It really gives me peace of mind to know "it's just the mature of the beast" with these hitches.

Maybe, for fitment issues, Draw tight used an extra short receiver (so that it won't stick out passed the bumper?.

I don't have the measurments for the Yakima handy, but I have used it with draw tight receivers for YEARS and never has a single issue.

Originally Posted by Committobefit08
Ok here is some reference photos.

I too have the draw tight/ hidden hitch. I also have the dimple.





I use the etrailer 2 bike folding rack seen here...
2 Bike Hitch Mounted Folding Rack w Frame Mount Cradles for 1-1/4" Hitch Tow Ready Hitch Bike Racks 63120

Here is a pic of the length of my rack (from end to the hole)


Here is a pic of the length of my hitch from dimple to hole. (center of dimple)


As you can see I have 1/2"+ clearance to my dimple. How long is your Yakima bike rack (end to hole)?
How far back is your dimple?

Hope the pics help.
 
  #8  
Old 08-02-2010, 01:10 PM
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It's no problem. Glad I could help.
I guess just see how your rack measurements and hitch measurements compare to mine and go from there. If for some reason hidden hitch made your receiver too short I would think they would gladly exchange it.

Good luck. Let me know if I can help you with anything else.
 
  #9  
Old 08-02-2010, 01:47 PM
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Captain obvious here. You just take a good quality drill/drill bit and drill out the tab from the outside if you want to use your existing rack. I believe they just want you to use their ball receivers which are appropriately lengthed or clearanced for that tab.

Disclaimer- Use osha standards when drilling (proper eyewear etc) unless you like to have metal shavings in your eyes.
 
  #10  
Old 08-02-2010, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Shora
First, thank you so much for taking the time to post pics, measurements and advise.

It really gives me peace of mind to know "it's just the mature of the beast" with these hitches.

Maybe, for fitment issues, Draw tight used an extra short receiver (so that it won't stick out passed the bumper?.

I don't have the measurments for the Yakima handy, but I have used it with draw tight receivers for YEARS and never has a single issue.
I'm still thinking a wiggle and a shove would do it. I had a similar problem with a rack - not sure which - I might have given a it few whacks but nothing serious. It appears to be the angle - not the length.
 
  #11  
Old 08-02-2010, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jondotcom
Captain obvious here. You just take a good quality drill/drill bit and drill out the tab from the outside if you want to use your existing rack. I believe they just want you to use their ball receivers which are appropriately lengthed or clearanced for that tab.

Disclaimer- Use osha standards when drilling (proper eyewear etc) unless you like to have metal shavings in your eyes.
Actually, another member (via PM) also gave me the idea to just drill out the indentation. It's too close to the weld for me to feel comfortable doing it.

Originally Posted by Krimson_Cardnal
I'm still thinking a wiggle and a shove would do it. I had a similar problem with a rack - not sure which - I might have given a it few whacks but nothing serious. It appears to be the angle - not the length.

It cannot be the angle. There is not enough clearance between the 1/4" receiver and the 1/4" shaft of the rack to allow that to happen. We are talking about millimeters here.

It's the length of the holes. The holes are further back on my Yakima rack than the hitch allows b/c of that darn indentation. If I could go back just a little further, this thread would have never been.

I will post pics to prove it after work.
 
  #12  
Old 08-02-2010, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Shora
If I see this correctly the hole on the rack is too high, no?

It certainly is in far enough, not sure the "stops" are doing it.

No way to flip the rack insert - even if it's just to see how it fits?
 
  #13  
Old 08-02-2010, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Krimson_Cardnal
If I see this correctly the hole on the rack is too high, no?

It certainly is in far enough, not sure the "stops" are doing it.

No way to flip the rack insert - even if it's just to see how it fits?
I can fit a shorter 1/4" shaft no problem (used for my Everthere cargo carrier).

Here are some pics of it.

Notice the Hitch Riser that I bought for it because the Fit's hitch is so low to the ground.


That's 75 pounds of cable that loaded it with to see how she drives with it.

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Last edited by Shora; 08-02-2010 at 03:26 PM.
  #14  
Old 08-07-2010, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Shora
I can fit a shorter 1/4" shaft no problem (used for my Everthere cargo carrier).

Here are some pics of it.

Notice the Hitch Riser that I bought for it because the Fit's hitch is so low to the ground.


That's 75 pounds of cable that loaded it with to see how she drives with it.



Is your cargo carrier for a class II hitch? What is the class of you Hitch? Mine is a class I.


I went through some tribulations with Etrailer about the differences between class I and II. They have the same shank height and width physically, but the class I hitch receivers are shortened to prevent installing a class II item into a class I receiver. This may be the reason for the dimple everyone is seeing.

If you are going to haul stuff on that carrier, it is best to keep the weight as close to the car as possible. The lever is in full effect.
 

Last edited by Roger's Fit; 08-07-2010 at 08:01 PM.
  #15  
Old 08-07-2010, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Krimson_Cardnal
If I see this correctly the hole on the rack is too high, no?

It certainly is in far enough, not sure the "stops" are doing it.

No way to flip the rack insert - even if it's just to see how it fits?

You're not seeing it correctly,

What you think is the inner shaft from the bike rack is actually the hole on the Hitch (on the other side)

It's a pic of the Hitch with no rack installed.

~SB
 
  #16  
Old 08-07-2010, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger's Fit
Is your cargo carrier for a class II hitch? What is the class of you Hitch? Mine is a class I.

It's a class I.


If you are going to haul stuff on that carrier, it is best to keep the weight as close to the car as possible. The lever is in full effect.

I know. I packed it that way to see how she handles on the worst possible condition. With 75 pounds of cable, I couldn't tell it was there at all.
Please see response in bold.
 
  #17  
Old 08-07-2010, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by specboy
You're not seeing it correctly,

What you think is the inner shaft from the bike rack is actually the hole on the Hitch (on the other side)

It's a pic of the Hitch with no rack installed.

~SB
GREAT catch. I didn't understand why he kept thinking I need to push down or up on the rack.

Now I see the angle of the pic may make it seem like I have a rack installed.
 
  #18  
Old 08-08-2010, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Shora
Please see response in bold.
And you're sure they're BOTH Class I?

I just visited Yakima's site...

They say their 1-1/4" and 2" racks are for Class II and greater.

So, if I'm not mistaken, your hidden hitch is Class I and the bike rack is Class II.

Every single Yakima hitch rack shows as Class 2 or 3 on etrailer.com.

While there's at least one (BigHorn 1-1/4") on Yakima that shows up listing a weight limit as part of the capacity, it seems to be more of someone basing the fitment on the weight limit than have the rack in hand and fitting it.
 

Last edited by Goobers; 08-08-2010 at 04:26 AM.
  #19  
Old 08-08-2010, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Shora
I need some help from those who installed the Draw Tight or Hidden Hitch.
Mine seems to have an indentation on one of the sides and it prevents my Yakima bike rack from being able to lock in since I cannot line up the holes.
Do you guy have this indentation as well or did I get a bad one?
Please advise before I contact the manufacture.
Thanks guys.
From your photo it appears the indent is on the left side, mine is on the right side. The holes do not line up exactly when I put in my bike rack either, but if I jiggle and lift up on the rack they line up. I just sprayed some WD 40 on both ends at it moves in much easier. Hope this helps.

Indent on RIGHT Side




With Bike Rack Mounted
 
  #20  
Old 08-08-2010, 01:03 PM
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Cool Hope this helps

This page might help clarify what could be going on here :Trailer Hitch Receiver Sizes

 


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