Thanks! It wasn't a tough job, just kinda time consuming. I've never installed a stereo system in my car before, much less build a fiberglass enclosure, but everything went relatively smoothly. I just asked a lot of questions and the members of this forum have been great with helping me out. Believe me, if I can do this ANYONE can so give it a shot

 

Nice job Sooner... Looks good!

 

Who needs space? This monster is going in after my fit is back from the shop. But very nice work on your box!

 

Wow, you can put two small children in there

 

Some things, I'd rather pay for, in order to save myself the inevitable headache.

 

Great job Sooner97! I like your location for the amp as well, what did you go with? How does the 8W7 sound?

 

The amp you see there is the JL XD 400/4. It's really small so it fits perfectly there. I also have an XD 600/1 in the center of my spare tire that powers the sub. I'm actually gonna replace the 400/4 with a JL HD 600/4. So will put the 400/4 up for sale next week. I like the placement of the amp now, but I have to build an amp rack now for the HD 600 b/c I'n also installing an Audison Bit One.

I love the 8W7, it sounds like a typical 10 inch sub. I'm really impressed with this little sub, it actually sounds better then my old Diamond 10 inch sub that I had in my last car.

I have another thread that I started but haven't updated it with pics.. I'm in the process of building the amp rack and sound deadening the entire car so will post the pics after I'm done.

BTW, thanks again for your help!

 

Sound great. I'll have to get a report from you once you've got the bitone in there. I'm using a minDSP w/ rear-fill plugin right now. If I end up Bi-Amping the comps I'll either get another one of those or the bitone for everything.

Get ready to enjoy your sub even more once you've got everything sound-deadend. Made a big difference for me.

 

Does your amp heat up in that confined space? ( Esp if you're pushing it in the summer) !?!?
+rep for a cool sub-box design

 

Thanks! No problem at all cranked for extended periods in VA summers. These class D amps dont really produce much heat at all.

 

I did a quick hook up of the Bit One last night and played around with it.. It's pretty awesome, everything can be adjusted easily with the software. You can tell it how far away each speaker is from you ear and it'll adjust the delay so that all of the sound reaches you at the same time. The clarity and imaging is amazing. The only down side is that it's so feature rich that it can become overwhelming. This is my first car audio system build so I'm still learning but I wanted to go active on my system and my research indicated the Bit One is the best processor on the market and the one that can be upgraded & expanded easily in the future. I was debating between this and the JL MS8 but the MS8 won't let you adjust many things so I figured the Bit One is a better investment for the future.

 

Jcuecker and sooner97, very nice builds by both of you. If you guys don't mind, I am going to steal the idea of hanging the amp in the spair tire. I have been wanting to replace that back floor with something sturdier for a while anway.

The plan is an Alpine MRX v60 in there, driving four Focal 6M115 woofers (one in each door, each side wired in paralel for a 4ohm load), a pair of Vifa XT25SC90-04 in the dash and an Eminence Eminator 2010 10" sub. I am still deciding what I want to do as far as wireing it, either bi-amp or run in bridged mode. I am thinking a crossover arround 2.5khz second order.

What do you guys think?

 

I'm not sure I'm qualified to answer your questions. I'm a newbie in regards to car stereo, my last car was installed at Car Toys and they did the tuning too. The results were really disappointing so I decided to try and do everything myself on the Fit.

I'm not familiar with the components so I really don't know what would be optimal for your set up. If you are bi-amping, were you planning on getting another Alpine amp? That amp you have will probably power your system adequately but I don't think it can get very loud. The power output is the bare minimum to power the speakers and sub but I think you may need more power, especially for the sub. If you bridge it, you're dropping it to 2 ohms but your speakers are 4 ohms so that may not be ideal. Again, I'm no expert in this so this is just my newbie opinion. I just feel that if a speaker is 4 ohms then you should power it at 4 ohms. Sorry if this didn't help you much.

 

I'm not the most qualified either but I'd like try and teach you a little something about audio and electricity in general.

Ohms law is V = I x R Voltage equals Current times Resistance. Power equals Voltage times Current.

This can be changed using algebra to say Power equals Voltage squared divided by Resistance.

Where am I going with this? The lower the Resistance the greater the Power.

If you set up your speakers to two Ohms instead of four Ohms you will have twice the power. (Real world doesn't work out quite so perfect).

I hope this helps.




BTW Awesome fiberglassing!

 

Cool, thanks for the engineering course

I actually was an engineering major for 2 years in college but dropped out and went to the medical field since I couldn't grasp the science & math. This refresher course reminds me of why I didn't enjoy those classes... But now I LOVE music so I guess I better brush up on some more basic electrical properties.

All I know is that Car Toys messed up my last install BADLY. Took it to 2 other shops to see if they can fix it and it never turned out right. I've decided to install everything on my own this time and so far it sounds so much better then the last car. Still lots of learning involved but it's fun journey.

 

Yea I didn't really know what to say but I couldn't say nothing lol! It can be helpful to know the basics when you working with amps but you can just look it up, theres calculators out there.

And I really know where your coming from on bad shops. I had a car alarm installed in my previous car by a now out of business shop (you can guess why they went broke) that never worked right. If you want it done right do it yourself or at least find out where the good shops are!

Look forward to seeing what else you can do!

 

Actually, the woofers/mids I am installing are 8 ohms, so the plan is to install one in each door then run the two on each side in parallel to give the amp a 4 ohm load. The tweeters will be 4 ohms and there will only be two anyway. I don't actually need it to play that loudly, just louder than the current head unit, which won't be hard at all.

My previous car came with an alarm installed already, but it had been done by a third party shop. I think there were 3 zipties in the installation, none of the wires were trimmed and they were all shoved behind the dash with the alarm unit. When the head unit went and I replaced it (after market head unit when I got the car already) I just ripped the alarm system out since it didn't work right to start with. There was a switch I never figured out what it went too either...

 

i dont know about your local shop but jl audio does have a stealth box that fits in the fit. its like 600 with a 10w3v3. so i am guessing your local shop should be able to do something cheaper than that. if they quote more expencive then that you can order this box from jl audio. but it is for a 2007-08 honda fit.

here the link
Car Audio - Stealthbox® - Honda - Fit

i hjave been really thinking about doing the same thing too.

 

JL Audio has the stealth box for GD3, not GE8.

 

yes you are correct and i did mention that too, for the ones that do have a gd3. but is is always worth a try to give more info, even if the info does fail. good luck with the inclosure. i am going to build my own. now i just need a just to build the box for. i do have a alpine type r but not sure if i want one that big that will take so much power to drive.