I have a base 2012 Honda Fit with the manual transmission. The issue I am having is that the power door locks keeps try to lock again (although already locked) every time I drop below 10 MPH and then accelerate above 10MPH.

The power door locks otherwise work fine on all four doors. And the drivers door unlocks as it always has with when you turn off the engine. Really aggravating in parking lots or in traffic.

Another minor issue is the the confirming horn beep is now missing when you press the lock button on the the key twice. Could this be related? All four doors do lock OK with the key remote.

All of started happening randomly a few months ago but now it happens consistently

Any ideas or suggestion are appreciated.

 

Just guessing here as no idea what the cause is. Try pulling fuses for door locks and running car through a few cycles. Maybe it will reset the CPU?

 

Update: Drove home yesterday and all was normal. No relocking. This morning; back to the same issue. Weird issue.

 

Quick things to think about. I'll have more time to read through the service manual this afternoon/evening.

this is a quick Link to a different forum where a dude had the same issue.
have you gotten water on your door lock controls, driver door? I imagine it would take a lot, but have had electrical issues in an old car caused by a little bit of splashed soda getting into the goods. Turns gooey and shorts stuff.

if it ain't obvious, we'll be pulling codes, then pulling funnier codes from the B-CAN. If you have any check engine codes showin already, just pass along them digits.

 

No excess water that I know of. And nothing spilled inside. My Fit is garaged at night. No CEL on or any other warning lights on the dash.

Right now I'm thinking to pull the negative cable off the battery and let it sit for a day or so. Maybe that will reset it?

 

I dont think a day would be necessary, just a couple minutes. It is ofcourse still possible that you may be dealing with a malfunctuning actuator. With my limited experience I've seen a very seldom used one fail for no good reason (ridgeline with 15k miles on it.)
I'd certainly lean toward that if the battery trick don't work, but before swapping we'll do some diag. The manual said to check the CEL first then move on to the B-CAN, but I'm not certain as to whether or not an issue in the MICU (Multiple somethin control unit which encompasses the B-CAN) would trigger a CEL. Gettin acronym heavy over here. Anywhat! Let me know and we'll go from there!

 

We had a VW Jetta computer that kept burning up catalytic converters ($1600 because fore / aft pipes welded on + labor). The dealer disconnected both battery cables and touched them together plus a bunch of other stuff to reprogram the computer. I don't claim to know why it worked but it did by the third cat.

 

Sometimes your can reset volatile memory by disconnecting battery for an hour or so.

Another option is to disconnect both battery cables and touch them together for a few seconds to discharge any computer capacitators. I don't know if this always works. You need to be uber-carful not to contact the battery for an explosive short.

This varies by car model and maker.

 

I wonder if this could be an issue with a failing motor. My driver door is making coil whine and occasionally messes up locking.
Bought a motor, just didn't install it yet.

Search FC-280PC-22125 on Amazon. They are cheap.
And the video to install:

 

[QUOTE=SiXiam;1425469]I.

>>>>>
Your door whine. Do you think it is the motor going? I have had an occasional whine when it is really cold. Watching the video does not appear to be anything else that would break or cause it. I am not doing anything with mine until it stops.

Watching the video will require a few replays as he did skip a bit of stuff but overall he did good job and a big money saver.

 

[QUOTE=Black3sr;1425515]Yeah it is a pain to change, but it is a cheap part and worth the effort. Likely for you it is just not turning all the way so the door tries again. Probably because the resistance of the motor is higher now. Basically it sends the signal, not enough, delay, that was enough, but by that time it was too late and the system tries to lock an already locked door.

 

Tried battery disconnect for 3 hours and got the same issue. No change.

Again, no issues with any of the doors locking or unlocking. Just the annoying relock everytime the Fit goes above 10MPH.

Wondering what is next to test? Could the auto lock be disabled and I would just manually lock the doors as needed?

 

Like SixIam said it could be a motor going bad maybe? A nice project for a warm sunny day.

In my repair manual it starts off saying to check these fuses. Someplace to start.

● Before testing, check the No. 1 (7.5 A), No. 20 (15 A), No. 22 (7.5 A), No. 27 (30 A), No. 35 (10 A), No. 36 (15 A), No. 49 (15 A), No. 50 (15 A), and No. 60 (50 A) fuses in the under-dash fuse/relay box. ● Therearetwopairsoffusesinthesamecircuit(No.35andNo .49fuses,No.36andNo.50fuses).Ifoneofthefusesis blown, check the another fuse in the same circuit. If necessary, replace the damaged fuse(s

The process to check the circuits is quite involved.

 

I would check the fuses listed. However the issue is somewhat intermittent. For example last Thursday on my drive home it was working normally. (No relocking above 10MPH) If a fuse was popped it wouldn't come and go.

Maybe a relay? If so, which one?

 

The system probably tries to relock the doors because it thinks one of the doors is unlocked.

 

Here is the wiring and testing procedures. Have fun.

 

Black3sr - THANK YOU!!!

 

Your welcome. I am sure the kids will learn some new words this weekend while you tear into the doors.

I would start with driver door. When you pull that plastic with black goop off be careful. That shit gets all over everything. Taffy Whites don't like it.

Be sure to tell us the results.

Bill

 

Been reading over the 13 - Keyless, Power Door Locks, Security System PDF document before digging into it.


A couple of things I've noticed based on what I've read...

"...The horn sounds and the parking lights,
taillights and license plate lights flash to confirm the
security alarm system is armed if the LOCK button is
pressed a second time within 5 seconds..."

Not only is the horn not beeping on the second button push but the parking lights, taillights and license plate lights do not flash. And the security
indicator in the gauge control module does not flash after 15 seconds which means the security system is not arming.


"...When the PANIC button on the transmitter is
pressed and held for 2 seconds, the horns sound and the
exterior lights flash for about 20 seconds..."

This is working as described which means the horn circuit is functional.


"DTC Troubleshooting... Check for B-CAN DTCs. If any B-CAN DTCs are indicated, refer to the B-CAN system diagnosis troubleshooting (see
page 22-77), and troubleshoot the indicated DTC(s) first."

Is it possible to have a DTC and the CEL not illuminate? If so, would a regular OBD2 Code Reader be able to display these?


Looks like the "MICU Input Test" would test all the parts of the system without having to open up the doors. Just need a good jumper wire and multimeter. (Again, all doors and hatch lock are operation normally. They lock and unlock via the key fob and / or the drivers door lock switch.)

Thoughts?

 

I am thoughtless. I doubt very much if the lights on display are burnt out.

I have no clue when comes to scanners.

Good luck. It is a puzzler.

bill

p.s. have you tried U-Tube? Maybe somebody has had a similar problem