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Just bought a 2nd Gen (09) Sport w/78K miles. My first impulse is to change all filters and plugs...…..plugs! How in the world do you get to the plugs???
You need to search the recent spark plug threads here as this is an important Honda Fit issue (spark plugs coming loose and causing expensive damage). It seems the torque specs have changed so do your research. Also, there are three plastic clip types that will break so you should buy those beforehand. Part numbers are in the threads.
I just changed plugs last weekend in our '11 Sport MT, while doing the valve adjustment, 99.5k miles. All the plugs were snug, no issues, and they were pretty clean and consistent in wear and soot. At 79k I don't think they would have needed to be changed, but of course it really depends on how the car was driven, what type of fuel was used, etc in your car. If it is idling and revving smooth, with good gas mileage, the only thing to be concerned with is whether the plugs are snug in place. It will take you about and hour or so to remove all the parts to check the plug torque and then reassemble.
You have to remove the intake, and it is best to remove the wipers and the cowl plastic (which is where the clips are that might break - I lost one and had one break) so that you have as much access as possible. There is a great thread with photos on a DIY valve adjustment by @07fit916 that shows the removal of these parts - follow that (up to the point of removing the valve cover, you don't need to do that of course) and you'll get to the ignition coils/spark plugs.
I never got enough vins to verify but maybe folks are uncomfortable sharing that kinda thing. At any rate, the plugs used on our cars vary between denso and ngk, the cars were manufactured at two different plants (suzuka and sayama) there was an old torque spec for 13ft.lbs., plus itd vary by date ofcourse. So I cant show a trend.. but yeah, you would be safest if you changed the plugs and torqued to 20.
Mine was made at the sayama plant in 2012 and I *think* my stock plugs were.. ngk? And I dont think they were loose. (P/N 12290-RB1-003).
The denso P/N is 12290-RB1-004.
When you pull yours, take note if theyre loose and what brand they are. If its ngk, maybe try denso or vis versa. As far as the procedure.. man im getting lazy.
Lets get you set like a pro
Youll need non-marring trim tools and a flatgead screwdriver (or proper body panel clip removal pliers). I personally recommend ATP 2014 and AP202A available from KTC sold via Frankstools. a 1/4 drive ratchet and extensions, u-joint, inch pounds torque wrench and standard torquewrench capable of 20 ftlbs with 5/8 plug socket i think, 3/8 drive extensions n u-joint (may be necessary if your torquewrench is bulky).. 1/4 drive 14mm socket (for wipers) 10mm for the wiper motor and metal undercowl. and maybe an 8 for the plug coil thingies.. or 10. Just bring 8, 10, 14mm sockets.
You can torque everything besides the plugs to 7 ft.lbs. (84 in.lbs) the wiper motor has rubber mounts. Dont crush em.
Oh and get a telescoping magnet stick pen thing! pop out the rubber nut grabber from the stupid spark plug socket and just use the magnet to pull the plugs out once theyre loose.
I figured the denso ones that come with the car are good for 75k+, might as well buy em again. Waiting on plastic bits and a break in work to hand mine.
Hah, no sweat. There is tons of info on here, but likely in posts about ejected plugs n sh*t.
Those are the multi ground electrode ones, yeah? Like, fat center electrode then 3 grounds?
I cant decide if that design makes sense
You'll confuse the electricity!
I run IK22s, as per recommendation of superstreet/importtuner. But thats dated. Just be sure that whatever you run you check in on 'em every now and then. Its just too important to ignore.
With the right tools, you can get the plugs out in under 15 minutes.
My upper cowl has some broken clips, but still sits good, just takes time seating that one right.
With regard to removing the end pieces on the upper (plastic) cowl: Anybody have a part number for the white clip in the end piece? I think that's the only clip that I broke.
@OP: The above video is good, but I did not have to remove the brake fluid cover, and I have never used Armor All on this job.
With regard to removing the end pieces on the upper (plastic) cowl: Anybody have a part number for the white clip in the end piece? I think that's the only clip that I broke..
Careful with that white clip! If you dont seat it perfectly youll be replacing that hood hinge cover a lot... i'm on my fourth drivers side hinge cover. Ive since removed that clip and the cover stays with the car now.
Incase you do choose to darken up plastics (i read the armor all bit). You cant un-age plastic any more than you can get younger yourself.
this stuff will make plastic trim look new. Dont even need a clear coat, primer, nothin but a clean surface, and that isn't laziness talking. One can will do your front grill and cowl.
I tried following up with clear.. made the grill kinda shiny. a sorta wet look if thats... what you want
After losing several Hood Hinge Covers, I applied a few small thin strips of 3M tape to the backside of the hinge cover where it contacts the body metal and it's stayed put ever since.
Just bought a 2nd Gen (09) Sport w/78K miles. My first impulse is to change all filters and plugs...…..plugs! How in the world do you get to the plugs???
Remove wiper blades, wiper cowl, side panels. Only way, unfortunately.
Just bought a 2nd Gen (09) Sport w/78K miles. My first impulse is to change all filters and plugs...…..plugs! How in the world do you get to the plugs???
There are plenty of recent spark plug problem/replacement threads here. Take a look.
As ChuckDustin notes, there is only one way to do this.
You will see some people squeeze under hood without removing everything. That is possible if you are very agile. But people here reported it is very difficult and does not save time. More importantly, you will NOT be able to fit a torque wrench to retighten the plugs; this is critical as many Honday Fits suffer from loose spark plugs, which can cause catastrophic failure.
The threads need to be properly cleaned and the plugs need to be properly torqued to Honda's updated specs for your car.
As ChuckDustin notes, there is only one way to do this.
More importantly, you will NOT be able to fit a torque wrench to retighten the plugs; this is critical as many Honday Fits suffer from loose spark plugs, which can cause catastrophic failure.
The threads need to be properly cleaned and the plugs need to be properly torqued to Honda's updated specs for your car.
100% agreed. I've tried. You can only do a halfass job at best, and as Fiting stated.. no way to torque properly. Just get yourself some spare clips and be careful with the side panels, and it should be no issue.
Also: USE THE MAGNETIC SPARK PLUG SOCKET. So much easier. I had a scare where I thought I dropped the boot into the engine. Save yourself a headache and go with the magnet.
Last edited by ChuckDustin; 04-28-2019 at 12:43 PM.
After losing several Hood Hinge Covers, I applied a few small thin strips of 3M tape to the backside of the hinge cover where it contacts the body metal and it's stayed put ever since.
That's what I thought. Thanks. The last time I did this, I wasn''t able to get one of the hinge covers on, so I gave up and threw the part in the back of car.
Regarding spark plug changes: I appreciate that there has been a lot said on this, but in almost forty years of changing spark plugs, I have never had an issue. And I'm no wiz mechanic. Unless there's something radically different and unique about Gen 2 engines — which I doubt — the hardest thing as access. There's not much room when the intake side of the engine is facing the firewall. As for torque wrenches, I have very rarely used them on spark plugs (used to have an expensive 1/4-in. drive Snap-on torque wrench), and I do not use them at all now because, unless you are certain that your torque wrenches are calibrated in spec, you will be in a world of trouble. Ask me how I know. Most of the mechanics that I know can "feel" when a fastener is tight enough. I'm not that good, but spark plugs do have a crush washer on them. You ought to be able to feel that when it seats. Having said all that, there is nothing wrong with using torque wrenches and taking extra care.
Regarding spark plug changes: I appreciate that there has been a lot said on this, but in almost forty years of changing spark plugs, I have never had an issue. And I'm no wiz mechanic. Unless there's something radically different and unique about Gen 2 engines — which I doubt — the hardest thing as access. There's not much room when the intake side of the engine is facing the firewall. As for torque wrenches, I have very rarely used them on spark plugs (used to have an expensive 1/4-in. drive Snap-on torque wrench), and I do not use them at all now because, unless you are certain that your torque wrenches are calibrated in spec, you will be in a world of trouble. Ask me how I know. Most of the mechanics that I know can "feel" when a fastener is tight enough. I'm not that good, but spark plugs do have a crush washer on them. You ought to be able to feel that when it seats. Having said all that, there is nothing wrong with using torque wrenches and taking extra care.
I will emphasize that the FIt engine has well documented spark plug issue. There are plenty of recent threads here. Ejected spark plug repair is expensive and painful.
It seems even Honda miscalculated spark plug torque, as there are updated specs from Honda (see recent threads with photos of the new specs). So going by feel or old Honda torque specs is a dangerous game with this particular engine IMHO.
i Just pulled my original plugs at 178k and they were in great shape. I checked the gap out of curiosity and they were all within 0.002 of spec.
Do check the plugs anyway though loose plugs are no joke. Mine seemed fine but were reeeeeally easy to get out. And they had some residue creeping up the threads.
Also if anyone forgets the clips I secured my cowl pieces with zip ties in the two places you can fit them and the cowl was fine up to at least 90 mph 😏
I will emphasize that the FIt engine has well documented spark plug issue. There are plenty of recent threads here. Ejected spark plug repair is expensive and painful.
It seems even Honda miscalculated spark plug torque, as there are updated specs from Honda (see recent threads with photos of the new specs). So going by feel or old Honda torque specs is a dangerous game with this particular engine IMHO.
Going to emphasize by siding with this fine gentleman here, with absolutely no disrespect toward experience.
If you intend to make your own call on this one, pull out all 4 plugs and check the threads on em for burn marking/discoloration indicating blow-by. Not from honda fit
If we report more to nhtsa, may the tsb expand? Would love to start building case for goodwill repairs to head on the off chance it happens to my 2012.
I'm intending to get to plug and valve check. Sometime. But life might throw other priorities at me :/
04-26-2019, 12:10 PM
but maybe folks are uncomfortable sharing that kinda thing. At any rate, the plugs used on our cars vary between denso and ngk, the cars were manufactured at two different plants (suzuka and sayama) there was an old torque spec for 13ft.lbs., plus itd vary by date ofcourse. So I cant show a trend.. but yeah, you would be safest if you changed the plugs and torqued to 20.
pop out the rubber nut grabber from the stupid spark plug socket and just use the magnet to pull the plugs out once theyre loose.
a sorta wet look if thats... what you want
