Hi. So I have a 2013 Honda fit base model automatic.it has almost 100000 miles and has been so reliable. I want to ask fellow fit owners, mechanic s what they recommend for mandatory maintenance services? Thanks

 

Valve adjustment would be one thing you should look into at 100K Miles.

 

Depending on the road conditions in your area, you might want to look into refreshing the suspension if you have not done so. It's not a requirement but would restore the stock ride and handling characteristics.

Also, ATF drain and refill would be recommended if you have not done so yet.

 

Change the AT Fluid and filter.

 

Are you referring to the engine air filter and cabinet air filter? I changed both about 3 weeks ago

 

The automatic transmission has a filter underneath the air cleaner. Remove the entire intake assembly to get to it. I'm fairly sure there's an internal filter (I know the manuals have them, and I'm sort of sure the automatics have it) but it's impossible to replace it without dropping the transmission. It's meant for the life of the car.

 

Yes, talking about the 'external' filter.

Initially, pull the dipstick and have a clean / white piece of paper towel in the other hand. Look at the AT Fluid: Is it black / brown / cloudy versus candy apple red for the Honda DW-1 fluid? Does it have a burnt odor? If so, you can take it to the dealer and ours wanted $90 - $100 to only change out 3 qts of fluid (whole automatic transmission holds a little over 6 qts, so they only address 50% of the potential problem for that $100). Wouldn't you want you 'all' or a large percentage of your AT Fluid to have all of it additives within their specified limits so the transmission works properly and isn't damaging itself?

If you decide to change the AT fluid yourself, the process requires 12 qts of the Honda DW-1 (a 12 x 1 qt bottle case is ~$90 at the dealer). Also buy a new drain plug washer (~$3) that you'll put on prior to the final fill up. As noted above, the whole automatic transmission holds a little over 6 qts of fluid but only about 3 qts drains out (50%). The rest is stuck in different passageways and the torque converter and won't drain out.

So, initially drain out whatever comes out. While draining, inspect the magnetic drain plug for chucks of metal that would reveal damage had occurred. A fine gray / black metal 'mud' covering the magnet is normal wear & tear. The old AT Fluid should have a burnt odor and be dark brown / black and be very opaque. If it is transparent (see through it while draining) and doesn't have a burnt odor, the previous owner must have had it changed in the last 20,000 - 30,000 miles. I would reseal the AT and refill / check levels and run it.

But if the AT Fluid is old, black, odor, then go for it and continue the change out process. Once the AT is relatively drained out, reinstall the drain plug & old washer to the spec torque N-m or Lb-ft and refill the AT through the dipstick hole under the battery (you'll need a long funnel or funnel with a tube to get 3 qts in the AT. Check the level on the dipstick (cold mark) and as long as you're close on levels you'll be OK. Take the car out and drive it locally / start / stop / fast / slow for about 15 miles and that should circulate the new AT Fluid with the old (50% new / 50% old = 50% clean). Repeat this process two more times after the initial, so 3 qts + 3 qts + 3 qts = 9 qts used at this point. This last drain will be the last time you fill (last 3 qts = total of 12 qts or your case of Honda DW-1), at this point, use the good drain plug washer you bought and torque it to spec, add the last 3 qts (check level as you go so not too low / hi). At this point approx 95%+ of the AT Fluid is brand new and you should be good for another 60,000 miles (I change mine every 30,000 miles but I'm crazy).

The other way you could do this is after the initial 95%+ replenishment process, you change the 3 qts of AT Fluid each time you do or have a garage do an engine oil change, which is approx every 10,000 miles if using the spec 0W-20 full synthetic (going by the Maintenance Minder % on the dashboard gauge). That way 50% of the AT Fluid is changed frequently enough that overall all 6 qts (total transmission fluid capacity) should be fairly clean all of the time, and therefore, within its performance specs. Plus you'll be or garage will be checking the magnetic drain plug frequently for transmission damage not that it is a real issue with these cars.

For you, at 100,000 miles, I'd check the AT Fluid.