The price you'd pay for a visit to the dealer, you can buy your own tools.

 

I was responding to the previous lengthy posts on frequencies, RFID, ATEQ, etc, etc and thinking that it was something I'd invest time and money to do one time. I'm sure I'd buy a sub-$50 replacement module and try it but if it was a +$300 module, I'd approach differently.

 

Well I am befuddled. My blinking low pressure light went out today.
And no, the light still works.
I have no clue why it went out. I did nothing new since 11/23 when I lowered and raised the pressure again after the initial 11/16 front tpms install.

The only possibilities that I can even think is that they won't activate until prolonged 40mph+ or I passed something giving off a strong enough 125khz signal to activate them.
I work locally so going above 40mph is rare and I haven't hit any highways since before the install. Everything I read said they activate above 20mph.

My next step (if my 125khz GM activator didn't work) would have been to get a copy of the Honda HDS software.
Maybe it is my lucky day, but either way my problem is solved.

 

From a Honda mechanic :

​​​Substitute a known-good TPMS control unit, and recheck. If the indication goes away, replace the original TPMS control unit. If the DTC is still present, replace the gauge control module.

 

Update:

Well the light went out for a week then came back on and stayed flashing for a week or so, then the TPMS light came on.
I used the ATEQ Quickset and went back to a flashing low pressure light. I tried my cheap GM style activator and it did not work.

Frustration at max levels I figured either time to go to a dealer or buy a TPMS scanner.
I got lucky and found one on sale for $119 (Foxwell NT1001):
Original Foxwell NT1001 TPMS Trigger Tool for TPM Sensor Activator

Today I used the Foxwell and the two TPMS I changed in the front are working
However the rear drivers side is not putting out a signal. Rear passenger side is fine.
So that is my luck. I change the front TPMS and one of the rear one dies...lol

 

I'm waiting for my new (used) module to arrive to try and fix my problem.

 

Does this tool do it all? Are any other tools needed?

 

I sort of had a similar experience. At +50k miles, I replaced my tires (OEM Dunlops after 20k, Conti DWS after 30k). Over the next 9 months or so, every TMPS sensor failed and needed replaced (I bought OEM Honda units, one at a time as they failed, for $48 ea). So my original new tire mounting / balancing $ were lost with everything being done twice plus I had to pay reprogramming $ (twice at dealer and twice at local shop).

 

It scans and activates, but you still need either the ATEQ to load them into the computer or the Honda HDS.

 

Apparently the wiring from the TPMS module goes into the stereo harness. I have an after market amp and screen in my dash. Looks like that's the culprit. No one can program it now, not even Honda. My amazing stereo is much more important to me than the TPMS system. Ugghh. Looks like I'm gonna end up putting black tape over that annoying light lol

 

Who told you this? I'm 99% confident this is not true for GE's.

 

Honda, they also showed me the wiring diagram.

 

Who at Honda? I used to do stereo installs for a living. Did the one in my wife’s 2010 sport recently. There’s no canbus or any other type of digital line(s) running to the stereo. Why would there be? It’s not like you can check/reset tire pressure or any other vehicle function on the stock radio. The tpms sensors all work fine in hers.

edit: are they talking about the pwm wire for “speed sensitive volume”? They think that not hooking that up causes the tpms to fail? You should find another dealer.

 

So I did not actually pay for a diagnostic. The mechanic spent like 15 to 20 minutes at least trying to figure out why the TPMS light was still on. He said that he thought that could be the problem. The service advisor showed me a wiring diagram. There is a wire in the diagram that goes to the harness and it is like a network wire. Basically it transmits data he compared it to an Ethernet wire. I don't know the exact name of the wire or the exact function. I talked to another Honda mechanic friend of mine and she said that could definitely be the problem. I don't just have a regular aftermarket radio. I have an in-dash Alpine amp and touch screen.

 

I should also mention I put my original module back in when they tried to program it at Honda. I figured it was not the module that it was the shop. So maybe I should try the other module and another Honda dealer and see if they can program it.

 

I just installed a radio in my '09, can confirm there's nothing about TPMS that goes through the stock wiring loom for the stereo.

 

I bought a tool to reprogram TPMS, and have succeeded twice reprogramming my sensors and the OBD II. It is an "Autel TS501" and was the cheapest that could do both things. $256 on Amazon. Instructions were incomplete, I struggled much to figure out the procedures, and I wrote them out for next time. There are two steps: The sensors in the tires must be "activated" (turn them on). These are proprietary to an unknown extent, so I think you must match the brand of sensor to brand of tool. Activation can be done while the sensor is in the tire. The tool gives a code to the sensor as the tool turns the sensor on. Step two is to connect the tool to the OBD II port above the gas pedal, and make it tell the OBD what code is at each corner of the car. When the sensors were new and off, the TPMS light on the dashboard was on. When I had finished programming, that light was off, but the "exclamation in a tire" light was blinking! It went off as soon as I drove the car more than 20 mph. Your discussion of wiring harnesses and fuse panel modules is over my head, but maybe you just need to do the basic process again with all items matching.

 

There is a single pwm line used to relay vehicles speed. The stock radio uses this to raise or lower the volume depending on if you have it enabled (SVC in the options menu). This is most definitely not like an ethernet wire where the head unit communicates back and forth with the car. It's more like a telegraph wire that only works in one direction. The car doesn't care if the other end is hooked up to the radio or not.

Starting in 2015 with the GK models which had a factory touchscreen, there is very likely a canbus (ethernet-like) connection going to the head unit where it communicates back and forth. I'm not stating that as a fact as I haven't worked on one yet, but I suspect they're like my 9th gen Accord where the infotainment could show some data about the car including being able to change or reset things like TPMS. But, that's moot because you don't have a GK.

You either have something wrong with one or more of your sensors or they're not being programmed correctly. With all due respect to your friend (and your dealer) they're taking the typical "can't figure it out, must be aftermarket parts and not our problem" approach. I'm afraid I don't have any good troubleshooting advice other than to say it's not your stereo.

 

You make a lot more sense than they do lol I really appreciate the response.

Both shops were able to communicate with each wheel sensor. After plugging into the obd port, it won't communicate any further. Gonna try another dealer and see if it works with my other module.

 

I took it back to the dealer and we tried to connect to a second module. It did not communicate. The chances at both of my modules are bad are very slim. I'm going to troubleshoot it by resetting my computer and unplugging my radio harness. If the TPMS light does not come back on, that would indicate it is definitely a wiring issue with my radio harness. Will report back soon.