Okay, so I have used 2009 Honda Fit Sport. I have had it for almost a year. A few months ago the brakes started feeling spongy and it started getting worst over time. When I purchased the car I remember the dealership saying the brakes were recently serviced but on which parts of the brake system was serviced I don't know. It got to the point that sometimes I could stop semi fine and other times it felt like there was barely any brakes. I figured the brake fluid was probably due to be changed and possibly dirty with air in the lines. I ended up deciding to just get all new brake parts since I would be taking off the tires anyway and the previous owner didn't seem to maintain the car well from other problems I have ran across over the year.

Well I replaced the front and rear brake parts down to the calipers, brake wheel cylinder, banjo bolts and even washers. Yes even the brake pads and rotors. I replaced the brake fluid and got the air out of the brake lines. Using the long fish tube to put in the brake fluid reservoir and connecting the other end of the fish tube to the brake bleeder screw. Using this technique basically . Only difference is I used it on all 4 wheels to get the air out of the brake lines.

After doing all this there was still no pressure, after some research decided maybe I needed a new master cylinder. There was no pressure when the car was on and only when the car was off. There was a hissing noise coming from the engine bay and after shutting the car off eventually started to hear what sounded like liquid moving around. Replaced the master cylinder and the liquid moving noise disappeared but there was still a hissing noise near the brake booster and no pressure

Replaced the brake booster thinking maybe the faulty master cylinder leaked into the booster. Took air again out of the brake lines and nope no pressure still. There is still a hissing noise. However now when the car is off the pressure disappears when trying to bleed the brakes and when you close it. If I turn the car on the pedal is still spongy but if I pump it a few times it feels like it wants to gain pressure and when I turn it off I have a small amount pressure again for several pumps and then the pressure just disappears. I thought maybe the booster needed to be adjusted better into the brake cylinder but no matter how much I adjust it, there's not much difference in the brake pedal.

Yesterday I realized the front calipers were on the wrong wheel I fixed that and put them on the correct wheel and attempted to get the air out but when the car was off again it kept losing pressure and no brake fluid would come out of the brake bleeder screws. I would have to keep turning the car on push the spongy brakes a few times and turn the car off for the brakes to feel normal for about 20 pumps.

When the car is on, brakes are still spongy but feel like they want to give pressure if that makes sense. No matter how many times I pump the brakes when the car is on pressure remains about the same. When I turn the car off the first pump or 2 there's no pressure and then the brake pedal gets stiff with pressure and starts feeling more normal but the pressure goes away without warning after a minute or 2.

Stuff worth noting:
- brake fluid was dirty during first flush but not to bad
- there is no leaks in the brake line
- noticed each time the brake fluid was flushed it would get a slight green tint to it, I would flush that and put back in clear fluid. I tried to look up reasoning behind that and someone mentioned it could be from a bad seal in the master cylinder, algae, or corrosion in the brake lines leading the brake fluid to mix with copper. Now after so many flushes and getting air out the fluid the rear ones are a clear with a slight blue tint but mostly clear. The front ones remain clear. I don't if this means whatever corrosion was inside got cleaned out or if it was from a bad seal from the old master cylinder
- checked the hose connected to the booster and the valve in the hose and there's no leak in that
- today, noticed there's now hissing in 2 areas one is where the inlet valve was in the hose but like below that maybe and the other is near the booster
- When I turn on the car the RPM's gauge moves slightly and eventually starts to level out
- The car has about 147,000 miles
- visual looks; all the hoses look fine and the brake lines appear normal, the previous brake booster didn't even look like it needed to be replaced honestly
- air filters are fine
- everything looks connected
- rear drum brakes seem well adjusted
- No check engine lights
- No engine codes



I feel like I'm literally replacing all the brake parts that make up the brake system and literally still not getting anywhere to solving the problem. What else should I be checking for? I just don't get why the brakes are spongy when the car is on but if I push the brake pedal a few times and shut the car off the brakes will have pressure for about 20 pushes. I left the car for hours after turning the car on and giving it some pushes to the pedal and turning it off and when coming back to the car it still had pressure hours later for about 20 pushes. Previously before putting in the new booster I didn't have to turn the car on and push on the brakes for there to pressure when the car was off. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. Someone please help, I been at this over a month and it feels like every idea I have thinking if I just do this maybe it will fix it, isn't fixing it.

 

Brakes must be bled in sequence, one by one... Not all at once.

And air can get trapped in weird places. Especially when replacing the master cylinder. Best method is to bench bleed the master before install.

 

I did do it one by one but used the same technique as the guy in the video. The guy in the video only did the technique on one brake, I used the same technique on all brakes but I did one at a time until each line had no more air bubbles.

 

Did you ever figure out the problem? I wonder with the hissing if there is air getting into a small crevice somewhere?

I'm having brake pressure issues too, and only after taking off the two front calipers to clean and paint them, then putting them back on.

What I don't quite understand is why with the 2012 Honda Fit the bleed sequence calls for the front driver first, then passenger front, then passenger rear, then driver rear, whereas the normal procedure is start first furthest from master cylinder?

Edit: looks like while I was fiddling with the e-brake and pressing on my brake pedal a whole bunch, the driver-side rear wheel cylinder came out of place, and was shooting out a stream of brake fluid when pressing on the brake pedal! Hopefully that is all that is causing my problem.

 

Hey Gemma. I assume op got their stuff handled.

Speakin of boots, well if you compressed your breaks while the calipers were hangin and blew out some fluid, it's a strong possibility air got into the system.
You rebuilt your calipers if I'm not mistaken! I'd recommend inspecting the boot on the caliper that shot hydraulic fluid out, just to be sure it didnt rip. Bleed the whole thing over. theres no reason I can think of that this would cause damage to the system unless the caliper's piston got damaged bad (out of round/scored in a way that interferes with the boot sealing junk)

I've still got mixed feelings about the bleeding method shown above. Even though the line sorta seals the system, there's still air in the line running from the bleed to the reservoir. i've always just had someone sit in the drivers seat and be the foot. Crack open for depression, seal up to release pressure n draw fluid from the reservoir. i dunno. its my understanding that pros either use vacuum bleeders or borrow a foot.

As for the way bleeding is done for the fit.. the idea behind bleedin from the farthest spot first has to do with how brake lines are run. i guess if they were connected right front and right back, left front and left rear, you'd bleed the rear first so that air in the longer line couldnt creep into the shorter one?
I dont really know, but brake systems, in regards to how fluid is delivered to them, has changed. I mean ideally they should all be independent so that if there's a failure, you've got three still functioning brakes. Think a smart guy figured a better idea was to have them work catty-cornered.
But the only point i can offer in that regard is that brake lines are no longer all run the same (if they ever truly were vs. our thinking they were and not having the internet/specific experience) so in absence of my pulling up the diagram and maybe learnin how the brake system actually regulates pressure (will do at some point) id say stick to the manual's recommendations

Oop, here's a explaining nuances (short, enjoyable, simple). the next question is why we bleed the longest line first. any takers?

 

Bleed longer lines first to get bulk of the old fluid out, reducing circulation of it and its contaminants in the system when servicing the subsequent brake lines. Yeah. not about air, just getting the most out of your fluid change. thats the best answer i've found and I've no fancy companies to quote.. just didnt see big shots chiming in in detail at first glance.

still open to better info if anyone has it!

 

Wow, that video was very helpful! Thanks for sharing.

For clarification, I meant the driver-side rear wheel cylinder was shooting out streams of brake fluid. Now I know to never press the brake pedal while the drum brake is off. Whoopsie! Lolz.

Regarding bleeding brakes, is it possible to be doing the brake bleed procedure, and only have fluid coming out for a good while, for example opening and closing the valve ten or more times or something, then suddenly get a legitimate air bubble coming from the brake line (not an air bubble from unscrewing the bleeder valve too lose), or is it that once the brake fluid is coming out nice and air-free, it's good to go? I always worry maybe there's air trapped way up in the brake line, or something, and needs to travel a long distance until it will finally come out.

 

Stoked you liked the video! I was really happy to find it myself! In regards to the drum brakes, pretty sure they've got ring seals inside and the pistons just slipped past them.
In regards to bleeding, you look for fresh colored fluid and no air bubbles. I believe the clear tubing can suck in some air from around the bleed screw, which would be tiny bubbles. any substantial bubbles would indicate it came from the system. Beyond that I'd say to compare drained quantity to system capacity as I don't know the exact number of needed pumps..
Also consider pedal firmness as you go, as the success of your removing air is dictated by firmness. Hah, I really don't have a lot of hard facts to go with this.
In leu of facts, go til you're comfy. If when you're done it's still squishy, do the whole thing again.

But I recommend changing brake fluid v recycling. new stuff feels better.

 

Yeah, I have a little bit better understanding because of the video now, but not 100%. I'll have to re-watch it again. However, I am reassured for the order that the service manual says to drain in. I am wondering: where is the ABS located in the 2012 Fit?

Also, I have drained and replaced almost three bottles of the 12 oz. Honda Genuine Dot 3 brake fluid now. I've had to do a couple sessions, because I drained the lines, then eventually took the calipers off again to do some more work, so had to bleed again, which left me with squishy brakes. However, I have yet to do the rear driver side, because the cylinder issue, which is why I think I had squishy brakes. I ordered a new cylinder, along with new hardware from Rockauto. Once that is in and installed, then I can finally bleed from that last spot, and hopefully no more squishy brakes!

That reminds me, too: say my brakes were working properly and say I hypothetically somehow got air in the passenger side, rear cylinder; would we have to bleed all four brakes, starting from the first location (front driver side) or just bleed from that one drum brake?

I was wondering, too, is it possible for the old brake fluid to flow from all other brake lines and such and drain out from just one bleeder valve, or does the old brake fluid in the other brakes remain in the brake hose and/or brake line and is not able to get suctioned from all the way across the car? For example, is it possible for me to crack the bleeder valve on my driver side, front caliper, and do the normal brake bleed procedure (while continuing to top off, of course) trying to draw out tall he brake fluid from all the other sections of the brakes?

Last thought: any idea how much brake fluid the entire brake system holds? Including the reservoir, master cylinder, brake lines, brake booster, brake hoses, calipers, rear cylinders, ABS, and whatever else?

Grazie!

 

When the petal is depressed, the M/C piston blocks off the transfer port from the reservoir and pushes a small shot of fluid out.
(okay that statement didn't sound quite right :/ )
One of the problems with "pumping the pedal" method is that the M/C piston can be overextended, and may bind or get scratched in the farthest part of the bore.

For bleeding brakes mono there is the Motive power bleeder.
It pressurizes the reservoir to force fluid through the system.
(If there is an overflow tube, this must be clamped off or there will be a mess)

I personally prefer using the Mity Vac at the calipers to pull the fluid out. Less chance of accidentally introducing air is the reasoning.

 

Just put a piece of 2x4 under the pedal while bleeding. No overextension!