I went to a tire shop that had a set of 195/45R 16 tires I put them on the vehicle they don’t rub but I’m wondering if I could go with the 205 and still clear everything my wheels are 16X8 aodhan AH01s this fit is close but I really wanna have the least stretch I can cause I drive highways and long distance anyone that can help please do here’s a bunch of pictures to help show my crazy aggressive pokey set up.

 

you didn't mention your offset! j's racing fit 215/50/16s on the front with the stock 42mm offset, 16x8 ce28n wheels and bridgestone potenza tires. they did change suspension but i didnt see mention of spacers added.

 

to update the thread I bought 205/45R16 tires they don’t rub. My offset is insane at +15 there is a slight anoint of poke will post pictures as soon as I get them remounted as I took off for a balance. Any one thinking about running this aggressive of a wheel set keep in mind everything about them doesn’t really agree with the cars stock look I most likely will have to roll and pull fenders but it should give the lil fit a mean look.

 

Update back to stock shit got really sketchy and studs where broken. In the end back to stock we go.

 

You're alright, right dude?
That steering geometry stuff. its a bit beyond me, but the jist of why FDs have such a high positive offset is to kinda make the tires wanna turn inward under braking when momentum is encouraging them outward.. Still dont feel like I nailed that summary.

I tried +10mm spacers on the rear of my fit, with the 16x7+35s. Wanted to even up the front and back for looks.. had good summer tires on there too!
Driving around town it wasnt bad, it felt neutral when turning, like it was a bit easier, but in the curves that translated into being squirrelly. one good drive and I boxed the spacers back up.
anyways. glad you made it back!

 

im financially dead but physically alive and the car was not crashed lol but it snapped 2 studs clean off messed up some bushings think I might have a blown shock assembly. and ultimately cost me way more to fix the problem I made driving on them for a week. I would recommend sticking with shop specs for wheels never will I ever stray again.

 

The deviation from the OEM wheels aren't the issue.

You went with bad wheel sizing, yes, absolutely. However a reasonable size like 16x7 +38-45, is totally safe.

Also you used OEM lug nuts rather than aftermarket lug nuts. That's your biggest issue.

I alone have dozens of posts telling people 16x8 +0-30 is dumb on a Fit. The information is there, y'all need to look before wasting money on low quality wheels that don't even fit.

 

Had to take a shot, They are $130 a wheel normally, I spent $510 with tires and sold them for $550 they where brand name sold by enjuku racing not “low budget” I had import lugs on it (not in the mock ups Shown cause they where not even on tight.except for when the wheel shop was testing tires and blew out my first set of lugs being dumb) even used tire charts calculators and read everything I could , I looked hard it just sounded like angry boomers that didn’t deep like rims. Maybe work on the way you approach people? Anyway I now know 16x8 +0-30 offset doesn’t work and wanted to let people know in a non-condescending tone. So hopefully this helps someone somewhere about to make this mistake. From here out +30-43 15x7 or 16x7 max for me.

 

Aodhan is a low budget, low quality wheel.

There are inexpensive wheels that are of decent/high quality but Aodhan is not that.

I post this stuff with a dismissive tone because it has been posted dozens of times, if you took the time to do five minutes of searching you wouldn't have put yourself in this situation.

You can even click people's usernames and look at their posting track record if you see wheel fitment on someone's car and like it. I love wheels, but after twelve years on this site of giving advice on what wheels fit & what wheels don't, watching people time & time again choose stuff that doesn't fit, niceties wear thin.

For reference, I've owned like twenty sets of wheels, currently have a couple sets & a whole bunch of weird pairs (and even some weird single wheels that I hope to find compadres for). Have fun, do cool stuff with cars.

My cars for reference. Fit has lowering springs & Konis sitting around for it that I'll install when the OEM stuff is worn out.

 

thats a pretty slick S2K back when I had my Z I used to love running with em at the track. I’m looking for a light weight 15x6.5 to a 16x7 for my ge8 with out destroying my bank account so far I seen some enkeis RPF 1 I think? But even they are pretty expensive so with all your experience what would you recommend?

 

My favorite cheap, high quality wheel is the Kosei K1. About $140/ea from tire rack for 15x7 +38.
RPF1 are great too
Buddy Club P1

 

Great recommendations above!!
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Yeah man, you did get a lot of negative feedback when yuh pitched the plan. Good on yuh for following through anyways, and of course, glad you're okay.

Tirerack is such a great resource for info. Worth digging to find their tire comparisons! Did'ja know that the design of a tire could actually affect inclinations of steering? And the stuff can be too minute to see. It's pretty neat stuff.

 

I love Tire Rack's tire comparisons. Back when I worked a desk job I would just sit there reading tire comparos after doing my work for the morning.

As a result of them I picked up my General AS-05 for the Fit, they suit the car perfectly IMO.

 

Did a little poking around want your opinion on something found these drags this is how they stack up.

 

Lower quality replica of an RPF1.

The big weight difference might be noticeable as far as fuel economy goes.

Personally I'd buy the RPF1 if those are your two favorites...but I would just never buy any replica wheels.

 

Gotta side with Mike on the name brands.
The question you're posed with is "where does the savings come from?"
Couple years back a proposition was made out in CA to repeal the gas tax, made national news, pretty bitchin. But would the state take a hit to save us money? The offer was to take the savings, lots of cash, out of freaking road maintenance. Now, if I had a fjcruiser, I might not care, but emergency medical services put out lots of funds to tell folks.. that they don't wanna ride in an ambulance over roads that are poorly maintained. they're often bad even when they're good.

Not always the case, but one way knock-offs save funds is reducing build quality. Could be the finish, the composition, labor, maybe they don't test their sh*t as thoroughly and it has heavy points that'd make em shakey at high speeds. It may only be one in a set of four that's botched. Finding where they cut said corners here would be tough, and returning them would cost a penny or two in labor and time. So I'd say to rely on a tested and proven wheel if you don't have funds to cover damages resulting from component failure.

RPF1s are a slick choice. You would feel the difference from the weight reduction. my ide set woulda been Volk CE28s, but that stuff aint exactly in budget. Not sure about now, but they were the superlative, lightest, and not a bad look.

Edit: I checked out the General tires and they seem really nice! I went with Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3+. At the time the mileage warranty was 60k (revised to 45k in 2019 just after purchase...)
Planned on light snow, and also to burn them up long before 60k. Buuut the police out here in GA dont drive uniform colors OR vehicles.. So I'm not having much fun

 

I've owned real RPF1 and have compared to the Drag's. While not really apparent in the photos the spokes are shaped differently. Weight savings is in the rim area of the wheel. That's where it's most important. The lighter the wheel on the outside will provide quicker acceleration. Keep in mind with lighter weight comes more easily bendable from a pothole hit.

Most replica wheels are heavier than the originals. I believe the Enkei are flow formed?

The only example I'm aware where the replica are similar in looks and weight is 15" Desmond Regamaster EVO and Rota Slips. The bigger diameter Rota slips look different than the Regamaster. Looks are similar on the 15's and the weight is close. The Rota are cast weigh like 12# in 15" and the forged Regamaster from memory are like 9.6#. In percentage the weight is huge. Picking them up by hand they feel similar. I don't think on a street car one would notice the 2#?