Hello I'm looking for some information if any about swapping engines on my fit. I have a 2013 fit sport automatic that has a destroyed engine, so I'm hoping to swap in an engine from a 2009 Honda fit. I've done several engine swaps but those were in Geo metros. The basic procedure I did there was:
1. Disconnect all sensors that needs to be disconnected
2. Drain the fluids that need to be drained.
3 remove exhaust
4. Remove fuel lines
5 Unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel
6 unbolt engine from trans and lift

And also vaccuum lines etc. Anything major I'm missing?

 

No idea. However, bumping for picture log when you start the job.

 

I will do a write-up once all I'm all done. So far the most difficult part was actually undoing the connectors. this car is unique to me because I've never worked on one where the engine and transmission wiring harnesses were connected and inseparable. the dealer says the engine comes out the bottom after removing all the steering, suspension etc and you pull it with the trans. I'm going to attempt to pull it out the top WITHOUT the trans .

 

If you can get the height needed for clearance give it a go, the hood does lock fully upright (think you need to pop off the hood hinge covers though).
When I pulled the trans to swap the clutch and flywheel it did come out of the bottom with minimal issues. If you opt to come outta the top you may wind up unbolting some extra stuff like.. engine mount brackets. which I was hard pressed to find torque values for.

If you do wind up having to pop out half shafts.. and moving the wheel hubs, dont forget to unhook the abs wheel speed sensors. those things are a hundred bucks.. I didnt have any real hang ups though. just clearance issues.
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I actually fully remove the hood, fully remove the radiator and fans, zip tie the AC compressor to the front, remove the battery and battery box, everything past the throttlebody air wise. I'm not keeping a reusing this engine I removed the throttle body and the intake manifold too just to give me more space. Alternator and starter are also out. My only issue is what do I actually bolt too? Like I'm going to bolt to the engine mount online passenger side but on the driver side there doesn't seem to be a huge amount of big bolts. I don't think the valve cover bolts are strong enough I wasn't sure about the intake bolts or the exhaust bolts.

 

On the GD, there's a black plate just in front of the throttle body that bolts to the top of the head that has a hole for the lift point. The passenger side has a bolt hole in front of the oil fill cap that goes into the head.

Maybe there is something similar on the GE? Good luck!

 

How am I actually supposed to buy things that screw into the head to lift it?

 

It's probably an M12 - 1.25 thread hole. You could insert a bolt and then get creative with a hook.

My knowledge is for the GD chassis, but for those there is a universal lift eyelet available from Honda - https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuin...1161;et=2%2c3)

I chose to use a ratchet strap hook (didn't use strap, just the hook and connected to it with a stronger strap) on the black plate and then wrap around the motor mount on the passenger side on the engine that I bought at a salvage yard. Haven't tried to pull mine from the car yet, but that worked for getting the engine up and onto an engine stand.

Keep in mind that these motors aren't heavy so it's not near as important what you lift by as if it were an iron block v8.

 

All right I will definitely look into that. I have a load leveler so I just need a boat big enough to not fall through the hole, and sturdy enough to handle the weight

 

neat progress. also,

 

Here's some pics

 

Everybody talks labor, no one touches on what happens inside the home.

 

Here is where I have decided to attach my load leveler from harbor freight. I removed the far-left and far-right coil plug bolts and added washers to them. When you remove the valve cover there's a threaded hole underneath the valve cover it would be towards the driver side. I ran the 14 mm bolt from the starter into that with other washers to make it the right length. My fourth attachment point from this load leveler was in the front left engine mount. There's a 17 mm not that I removed

 

Okay so the engine is now out of the car and I had to pull it with the transmission. The mounting diagram above did not work for me . I doubled up on the pass side engine mount and on the starter bolt I ran into the threaded hole under the valve cover. I was finally able to access the bolt to the rear that joins the engine and transmission inside the car but was unable to separate them so they were pulled together.