Battery choice
Battery choice
Thinking ahead about a new battery for my 2013 Fit. Prices are over $100 for a 340 cca battery. Thinking of putting in a 340 cca garden tractor battery for $39.95.
I think it would work. My Fits a mt, so I can push start easily if the battery dies. But I think it would work.
Bugs me that I just bought a battery for my Tacoma and it was $55. Over $100 for smaller battery for the Fit.
I think it would work. My Fits a mt, so I can push start easily if the battery dies. But I think it would work.
Bugs me that I just bought a battery for my Tacoma and it was $55. Over $100 for smaller battery for the Fit.
Thinking ahead about a new battery for my 2013 Fit. Prices are over $100 for a 340 cca battery. Thinking of putting in a 340 cca garden tractor battery for $39.95.
I think it would work. My Fits a mt, so I can push start easily if the battery dies. But I think it would work.
Bugs me that I just bought a battery for my Tacoma and it was $55. Over $100 for smaller battery for the Fit.
I think it would work. My Fits a mt, so I can push start easily if the battery dies. But I think it would work.
Bugs me that I just bought a battery for my Tacoma and it was $55. Over $100 for smaller battery for the Fit.
A 51R will fit in the second gen, just need to remove the battery tray. Those cost a little less.
Ive read about mods to put in a 51r. Curious in the difference in a 151r 340 cca and garden tractor 340 cca battery. If it starts the car, once running the alternator will do the rest.
when my bat dies, think I'll try a battery from my garden tractor. I use one in my boat, with a 25 Yamaha.
when my bat dies, think I'll try a battery from my garden tractor. I use one in my boat, with a 25 Yamaha.
Only thing I can contribute here is that I don't know how a tractor battery would fair in a collision/high momentum situations and such. I imagine that it could power your car just the same if the output is right, but they likely aren't subject to the same regulations as one designed for automotive, which may be reason for much of the price gap. Powersports batteries are designed to be cool with sloshing, flipping, and are leak-free.
I think they're classified as AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries. There's also lithium ion batteries (made by companies like Shorai) that are smaller, lighter packages. Some folks have run Miatas with them, but it's recommended they be kept on a battery tender when not in use. This leads me to believe you can run whatever so long as the numbers are good, there's just safety and longevity variables.
I think they're classified as AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries. There's also lithium ion batteries (made by companies like Shorai) that are smaller, lighter packages. Some folks have run Miatas with them, but it's recommended they be kept on a battery tender when not in use. This leads me to believe you can run whatever so long as the numbers are good, there's just safety and longevity variables.
As an experiment I built myself a super capacitor boost pack. It can deliver enough amps to start the engine on its own, but it has very little capacity and drains too fast for multiple start cycles. So what did I do? I wired in a tiny 10Ah motorcycle battery in parallel so it has extra reserve capacity. Been about 2 years now and it's still kicking. The super cap pack does tend to get recharged much faster because it can suck as many amps as the alternator can feed it. So the downside to this system is I think it doesn't allow the lead acid battery to get fully charged. Once in a while I hook up my 10Ah battery to a separate charger at home to make sure it's full.
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