09 Fit shuts down PO60a 1659
Any help is appreciated on this
About a month ago my car would randomly shutdown after driving for a half hour to an hour and and codes PO60A and 1659 appear along with the key immobilizer light coming on.
So it had been a while since I adjusted my valves (rebuilt and installed a new head 60k ago. blew out the Spark plug and stripped the head) so I adjusted the valves changed the coils and plugs.
I followed all the diagnosis for the code 1659 which is the ECM not reading the correct target area for the Throttle control valve and the ECTS relay.
So i changed the ECM out for a good one had it reprogrammed and updated at the dealership along with the throtllebody. Traced and checked for the shorts in the wire and found none.
Started driving and it happened again, the same 2 codes with the new ECM and the changed out throttlebody and new ECTS relay
I can tell you what it's not, it's not the EGR, coils, plugs, throtllebody valves, or ECM., Today when I was waiting in the car at idle after I had driven it for 45min I was waiting for my wife I heard the car surge and watched the idle rise to about 1200rpms and heard a relay click and reset. This happened 3 times but the 3rd time after it surged and the relay clicked the car shutdown and the same 2 codes came on, each time the key immobilizer light came on and blinked until I turned the key to lock mode.(I keep my ODB reader in the car). After this It started right up and I drove it home.
So what I'm down to is this, since the Key immobilizer and fuel pump somewhat work together and I'm hearing a the relay reset, I'm wondering if I have a short in the fuel pump that back feeds to the
PGM-F1 relay causing the ECM to read a problem with the immobilizer and shutting down the fuel pump starving the Throttlebody for fuel showing a wrong code?
Or theres a short in the fuse box and I need to change the fuse box?
Any way to track with any aftermarket multimeter or some kind of electronic device which relay is resetting causing the power surge during the powersurge?
Could use some help on this one.
About a month ago my car would randomly shutdown after driving for a half hour to an hour and and codes PO60A and 1659 appear along with the key immobilizer light coming on.
So it had been a while since I adjusted my valves (rebuilt and installed a new head 60k ago. blew out the Spark plug and stripped the head) so I adjusted the valves changed the coils and plugs.
I followed all the diagnosis for the code 1659 which is the ECM not reading the correct target area for the Throttle control valve and the ECTS relay.
So i changed the ECM out for a good one had it reprogrammed and updated at the dealership along with the throtllebody. Traced and checked for the shorts in the wire and found none.
Started driving and it happened again, the same 2 codes with the new ECM and the changed out throttlebody and new ECTS relay
I can tell you what it's not, it's not the EGR, coils, plugs, throtllebody valves, or ECM., Today when I was waiting in the car at idle after I had driven it for 45min I was waiting for my wife I heard the car surge and watched the idle rise to about 1200rpms and heard a relay click and reset. This happened 3 times but the 3rd time after it surged and the relay clicked the car shutdown and the same 2 codes came on, each time the key immobilizer light came on and blinked until I turned the key to lock mode.(I keep my ODB reader in the car). After this It started right up and I drove it home.
So what I'm down to is this, since the Key immobilizer and fuel pump somewhat work together and I'm hearing a the relay reset, I'm wondering if I have a short in the fuel pump that back feeds to the
PGM-F1 relay causing the ECM to read a problem with the immobilizer and shutting down the fuel pump starving the Throttlebody for fuel showing a wrong code?
Or theres a short in the fuse box and I need to change the fuse box?
Any way to track with any aftermarket multimeter or some kind of electronic device which relay is resetting causing the power surge during the powersurge?
Could use some help on this one.
If you can, list your symptoms, the circumstances under which they occur, how long they've been going on for, and any recent repairs that may have preceded the first occurrence of the fault. Like, uh, any work done around the time the fault started.
I'm not the best at electrical diag, but I may be able to help.
Circumstances under which I've experienced a car just randomly shitting the bed after running for a while include clogged exhaust (I'd expect there to be a glaring exhaust issue to cause the clog), phantom misfire caused by ignition coils (this bugged out the ecm - caused sweeping gauges, could correlate with pressing the throttle. I'd suspect failing/old or super cheap shitty coils), and.. bad rewiring of an engine harness, which I wouldn't assume to be the case for anyone but me.
If the engine is warm when the fault occurs, that's important. If pressing the gas pedal has any effect, that's important. If you have reason to suspect any particular thing, be sure to include it. From some light reading it could be something as silly as a loose intake connection.. There has been some info put up by cutsheal5 about an ecm failure that involved ignition coils. Thats the only ecm failure I've seen discussed here.
Adding in just a little bit of editing: Clogged cat, if it was bad enough to stall the car, would cause the engine to get hot.
I'm suspicious of the fuel pump, but if we're talking about a fuel pump issue I'd expect throttle to be a factor.
For the OP, long gone, they reported the throttle jumping up at some point, and they replaced their TB, which didn't fix it (thinking throttle position sensor). But.. the TB acts on a signal sent from the gas pedal.. if they were around I'd have suggested checking out the signal voltage coming from the gas pedal.
I'm not the best at electrical diag, but I may be able to help.
Circumstances under which I've experienced a car just randomly shitting the bed after running for a while include clogged exhaust (I'd expect there to be a glaring exhaust issue to cause the clog), phantom misfire caused by ignition coils (this bugged out the ecm - caused sweeping gauges, could correlate with pressing the throttle. I'd suspect failing/old or super cheap shitty coils), and.. bad rewiring of an engine harness, which I wouldn't assume to be the case for anyone but me.
If the engine is warm when the fault occurs, that's important. If pressing the gas pedal has any effect, that's important. If you have reason to suspect any particular thing, be sure to include it. From some light reading it could be something as silly as a loose intake connection.. There has been some info put up by cutsheal5 about an ecm failure that involved ignition coils. Thats the only ecm failure I've seen discussed here.
Adding in just a little bit of editing: Clogged cat, if it was bad enough to stall the car, would cause the engine to get hot.
I'm suspicious of the fuel pump, but if we're talking about a fuel pump issue I'd expect throttle to be a factor.
For the OP, long gone, they reported the throttle jumping up at some point, and they replaced their TB, which didn't fix it (thinking throttle position sensor). But.. the TB acts on a signal sent from the gas pedal.. if they were around I'd have suggested checking out the signal voltage coming from the gas pedal.
Last edited by Pyts; Jan 6, 2024 at 06:35 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bekks
2nd Generation GE8 Specific DIY: Repair & Maintenance Sub-Forum
6
Jan 18, 2015 08:13 PM
saltydad58
Other Car Related Discussions
10
Aug 28, 2005 09:30 AM



