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hey! im new to the forums and this is my first post, i’m looking for some advice. i have to do an oil change on my 2011 fit, it currently has 176K miles on it. i understand the fit uses 0W-20 synthetic oil, but my question is with the higher miles should i opt to use a higher mileage engine oil and if so which one? I’m from SoCal (not sure if that matters) and appreciate any advice given
In my experience provided you regularly change the oil it doesn't really matter provided it's the correct weight. There've been so many cars I've seen that were only serviced at a dealership that've run to >200k without issue -- bear in mind most dealerships use cheap, bulk synthetic oil (ex standard SM or SN oil). That said, to answer your question I would just go with any "high mile" 0w20 synthetic. Pennzoil, Mobil 1, Valveoline, etc they're all pretty comparable for a commuter car like ours. When I bought my Fit from my girlfriend I had the oil analyzed; she had Oriley's 5w20 conventional (she forgot it takes synthetic only) in it and the it was around 8k miles (5% on the maintenance minder).
Despite being a conventional and run at high miles the oil still maintained the correct weight (20w) -- the total acid number is a little cautionary but not to the point where it might start causing damage. So I wouldn't really sweat the specific brand; get whatever synthetic 0w20 you want and change it regularly. I typically go to 30% on the maintenance minder which is usually around 5k miles.
Last edited by oldyeller; Apr 27, 2021 at 10:39 PM.
I change my oil once or twice a year, OEM filter every time, used to use OEM oil, now I've switched to the ‘basic’ Amsoil 0W-20 car drives exactly as it has since 2012.
Full synthetic oil is more robust and with modern multi valve engines should be used. Motor oil deteriorates, so typically needs to be changed at least annually, regardless of miles.
I change my oil once or twice a year, OEM filter every time, used to use OEM oil, now I've switched to the ‘basic’ Amsoil 0W-20 car drives exactly as it has since 2012.
I'm using Amsoil, too. I started with the $7.99 per quart formula, but now I upgraded to the next one up. I was paying $10 per quart at Pep Boys for Castrol. I think Amsoil is better.
I have close to 220k on my 2009 fit and I have used amsoil signature with the recommended oil. I change the oil once a year or when I hit 25k miles, whichever comes first. I use oversized quartz oil filters.
for a little color-contrast i'm still running Redline 0w20 and Purolator Boss filters, oil change interval is 30-15% life indicated per maint minder.
I'd fumbled upon a "study" conducted by a shop student over 10 years ago where he went through a dozen filter brands and cut them all in-half. Asserted that the purolator boss filters internal design was the most effective at preventing dirty oil from bypassing the filter media. It was not a well conducted or documented attempt and didn't span across multiple vehicle designs, plus any information from it is so outdated now that I didn't bother to keep the link. I still base my choice off of it, 'til someone else buys a bunch of filters and takes pictures of them cut in-half.
I've had several mechanics and people in parking lots compliment the car's quietness/accuse me of sneaking up on them/ask if the fit was a hybrid.
Costco sells 10 qts (2 5qts) of QUALITY FULL SYNTHETIC OIL for $25.
FREQUENT OIL CHANGES IS KEY !
Cheap trashy oil works if changed before it fully breaks down. Quality synthetic lubricates more effectively and lasts longer. But, not forever- frequent oil changing will preserve your motor.
Warm oil drains much easier. Don’t burn yourself on hot exhaust. Auto maintenance isn’t rocket science-but, science it is and science ain’t for stupid people.
I always pour a lil bit of new oil (after old oil is done draining) to push out the last bit of the old and dirtiest oil. I will even bounce car to help stir dirt flow out - might sweep a finger in/around drain plug hole (on them older guys).
If your getting really dirty oil at regular change intervals 3-5k mi-
then don’t hesitate dropping pan and given’er a good cleaning, new gasket, new drain plugs/rubber washer seals are cheaper than driveway drip is ugly.
I use the 5w20 synthetic my oil cap says 5w20 on it so that’s what I use, I always go by the maintenance minder. My car has 303000kms on it now doesn’t skip a beat.
i also buy my oil and filter from the dealer.
Last edited by cutsheal5; May 22, 2021 at 09:18 PM.
for a little color-contrast i'm still running Redline 0w20 and Purolator Boss filters, oil change interval is 30-15% life indicated per maint minder.
I'd fumbled upon a "study" conducted by a shop student over 10 years ago where he went through a dozen filter brands and cut them all in-half. Asserted that the purolator boss filters internal design was the most effective at preventing dirty oil from bypassing the filter media. It was not a well conducted or documented attempt and didn't span across multiple vehicle designs, plus any information from it is so outdated now that I didn't bother to keep the link. I still base my choice off of it, 'til someone else buys a bunch of filters and takes pictures of them cut in-half.
I've had several mechanics and people in parking lots compliment the car's quietness/accuse me of sneaking up on them/ask if the fit was a hybrid.
Anyone can cut a few in half themselves. I think doctor J did a thread on this.
I use the 5w20 synthetic my oil cap says 5w20 on it so that’s what I use, I always go by the maintenance minder. My car has 303000kms on it now doesn’t skip a beat.
i also buy my oil and filter from the dealer.
If that's what it says, and that's the factory oil cap, then go for it.
Costco sells 10 qts (2 5qts) of QUALITY FULL SYNTHETIC OIL for $25.
FREQUENT OIL CHANGES IS KEY !
Cheap trashy oil works if changed before it fully breaks down. Quality synthetic lubricates more effectively and lasts longer. But, not forever- frequent oil changing will preserve your motor.
Warm oil drains much easier. Don’t burn yourself on hot exhaust. Auto maintenance isn’t rocket science-but, science it is and science ain’t for stupid people.
A new oil filter with every oil change is a must.
Stay away from junk brands (Fram is trash).
I like Fit Angel, and I agree with this part of what he said. Remember, folks, it's not the oil, it's the additives in the oil that do the work. And the additives are only good for so long. Then, you gotta change your oil.
Spend money on the best stuff you can find and feel good about it.
UPS is so detail-oriented they tell the drivers how to hold their keys. A decade or so ago I figured to ask them about oil- because I imagine that they'd do studies with all their trucks to see what got them the fewest engine replacements or the best fuel economy. I managed to get in touch with the guy in charge to ask what oil they use in their trucks. Expecting a detailed explanation.
I certainly could cut filters in half myself, but I already extended the effort I was willing to extend and the purolator boss packaging is all sparkly! Even if true, if the filter best prevents dirty oil bypassing filtration, dirty oil is good for an engine when compared to restricted flow. The only instance in which I've seen for myself fluids actually affecting performance was with Toyota's World Standard transmission fluid. I put it in and the additives/friction modifiers/detergents made the automatic transmission in the 05 Tacoma Pre-Runner simulate clutch slipping.
Swapped it for redline (other brands may have done just as well) and it was back to normal.
According to blackstone, it just don't matter what brand we use. I attached a document with their claims and another stating the claims of lycoming and briggs regarding additives. There's an old article i can't find discussing manufacturers' use of lifetime transmission fluids that showed evidence OEM fluid additive packs actually mattered quite a bit over extended interval, but you can avoid that mess by changing fluid more frequently if i understand things correctly.
The trouble seems to be challenging advertising, desire to have results be unique/beneficial, and my own preconceptions.
@Brain Champagne: Your plan, then, is to spend the least amount of money that you can? Are you making a money decision or an oil decision? "Cheapest oil" doesn't tell us the whole story. Cheapest that meets OEM specs? Cheapest regardless of the quality? Are you saying that all oils are the same, so just buy the cheapest? Generic beer, not champagne?
UPS may be a good source for information regarding package delivery, but I wonder if they are a good source for automobile maintenance. If they told you that they sell all of their trucks at 50,000 mi. because they found it's cheaper to replace than maintain, would you sell your Fit at 50,000 mi.?