When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
when I purchased the car it literally sounded horrible I took a chance and the loud screwed engine sound (rod knock) was the ac clutch bearing that was out. I did the whole remove belt drive to check and confirmed that it was the culprit but now since I’m very finicky with stuff I feel like the engine is louder than normal? (This is my first fit so I have no other one to compare to)
recently did the valve adjustment, running 5w20 with liqui moly lifter additive, new spark plugs, and yet I feel like the engine is still loud:/ not crazy loud but you know loud.
I’ve had a 13’ 328i and those injectors are crazy loud, and currently my 16’ C63s isn’t as loud as the fit either.
I know I don’t have bad bearings (knock) I don’t have that knock thru out the rpms just during cold start but during normal driving the noise goes away..
maybe it is rod knock or even something hitting something like the exhaust as I seen on a YouTube video or even maybe even a bad throw out bearing? Idk… just lost on to either keep poking around and seeing what it might be or just leave it alone? Currently getting between 30-38 mpg street
/highway
what do you guys think? It’s midnight and I’m losing sleep over this:/
We bought two new Fits in '09 and one has always been a little louder than the other until it warms up. The noisier one has a clattering/ticking sound, like a valve or injector. It's had the LMS recall and one valve adjustment with no change in sound. It now has 133K miles on it so I don't worry about it.
We bought two new Fits in '09 and one has always been a little louder than the other until it warms up. The noisier one has a clattering/ticking sound, like a valve or injector. It's had the LMS recall and one valve adjustment with no change in sound. It now has 133K miles on it so I don't worry about it.
I recently had an experience that might nail your problem. Can also say that the fit isn't inherently loud at start up. Couple things for you:
Consider doing a valve adjustment
Try premium gas. I know now's the worst time due to prices, but I've noticed that running 93 seems to eliminate knock at cold-start
Let the fuel system pressurize before starting. Key to ON II, will hear the fuel pump run for 1-2 seconds and shut off, then crank the car. This is good habit to form to promote engine longevity.
Inspect/replace your PCV valve. Will attach a doc from the manual on how, it's super easy.
My PCV valve recently got stuck while driving, creating a knock as well as what sounded like bearing noise coming from the crankcase. When pulling the dipstick with the engine running, there was an audible release of built up pressure. Dislodged the valve by opening the oil fill cap while the engine was running. Tried to replace it with an aftermarket from Intermotor. Did need new crush washer, which is the same as the oil drain plug crush washer. Honda sells them for $0.55 a piece. I would also recommend getting either an OEM replacement or a brand besides Intermotor. Theirs sheared off when trying to reach the 33lb torque required to crush the washer and get a good seal. Felt like it was going to break before reaching that value so I reassembled and ran the car, but I could hear a chirp coming from the valve and the car idled a little rougher, so I went back and torqued it the rest of the way and it popped.
Cleaned the OEM valve with brakeclean (appears to be all metal) and blew it out with canned air. Will be getting a new one from the dealer some time soon and will update to say whether it improves idle noise/vibration.
Note: I do have a secondary PCV valve installed to create slight crankcase vacuum. This may have affected the presentation of symptoms.
I recently had an experience that might nail your problem. Can also say that the fit isn't inherently loud at start up. Couple things for you:
Consider doing a valve adjustment
Try premium gas. I know now's the worst time due to prices, but I've noticed that running 93 seems to eliminate knock at cold-start
Let the fuel system pressurize before starting. Key to ON II, will hear the fuel pump run for 1-2 seconds and shut off, then crank the car. This is good habit to form to promote engine longevity.
Inspect/replace your PCV valve. Will attach a doc from the manual on how, it's super easy.
My PCV valve recently got stuck while driving, creating a knock as well as what sounded like bearing noise coming from the crankcase. When pulling the dipstick with the engine running, there was an audible release of built up pressure. Dislodged the valve by opening the oil fill cap while the engine was running. Tried to replace it with an aftermarket from Intermotor. Did need new crush washer, which is the same as the oil drain plug crush washer. Honda sells them for $0.55 a piece. I would also recommend getting either an OEM replacement or a brand besides Intermotor. Theirs sheared off when trying to reach the 33lb torque required to crush the washer and get a good seal. Felt like it was going to break before reaching that value so I reassembled and ran the car, but I could hear a chirp coming from the valve and the car idled a little rougher, so I went back and torqued it the rest of the way and it popped.
Cleaned the OEM valve with brakeclean (appears to be all metal) and blew it out with canned air. Will be getting a new one from the dealer some time soon and will update to say whether it improves idle noise/vibration.
Note: I do have a secondary PCV valve installed to create slight crankcase vacuum. This may have affected the presentation of symptoms.
huge thanks for your comment! I’m going to give the premium a shot, valve adjustment has been done, and I will be ordering a pcv valve today.
thanks and I’ll reply back with results soon thanks again!
Good to go. I also made a brief video of how my car sounds after sitting for 3 hours in 55° weather. No notable difference from first start of the day.
You'll notice a high pitched whine. Can't see the slight wobble in the video, but it's the belt tensioner pulley bearing. Car isn't as quiet as it used to be, (engine mounts are original) but I wouldn't call it loud. Here's the
Good to go. I also made a brief video of how my car sounds after sitting for 3 hours in 55° weather. No notable difference from first start of the day.
You'll notice a high pitched whine. Can't see the slight wobble in the video, but it's the belt tensioner pulley bearing. Car isn't as quiet as it used to be, (engine mounts are original) but I wouldn't call it loud. Here's the link.
I see. Turns out my noise is just during start up like loose bearings other than that it’s normal. Compared it to this guy who was at stater brothers and I told him about my doubt and he gladly popped the hood and turned on his car. Pretty much the same sound. I’m relieved thinking the engine was toast but on the other hand I’ll be running premium and going with possibly 5w30 oil on the next one see if that fixes that start up sound
Premium is extremely unlikely to do anything. These cars are definitely loud relative to most, at least in terms of mechanical noise. They just dont have obnoxious exhausts like most cars.
And yeah definitely keep in mind that these are cheap economy cars which won't have much sound deadening or resources spent on making the engine quieter in operation. Like using a belts instead of chains and what not.
Post up a video or two of the car idling. Cold start if possible.
Originally Posted by iridium.c63s
now that I think about it the 328i was louder than the fit..
Kinda doubting the Fit being louder personally...
Yes, the GE8's L15A7 is loud due to injector tick BUT the F30's N20B20 is direct injected and LOUD due to injectors and the wastegate actuator rattle during cold start.
Let the fuel system pressurize before starting. Key to ON II, will hear the fuel pump run for 1-2 seconds and shut off, then crank the car. This is good habit to form to promote engine longevity.
I've been trying this for the last few days. I haven't noticed any difference in start-up or noise. Is this strictly a "promote engine longevity" thing?
@iridium.c63s Did you try pinching the hose attached to the pcv valve while the engine's running, or pulling the dipstick/fill cap when the noise is occurring? I'm stuck on that mentally, admittedly, I'm sure there's other causes. When the valve got stuck for me, I heard bearing noise from the engine. I assume the positive pressure was displacing oil. Although the above may not be the case for you, if you have a bad bearing I'd be surprised to think it would create intermittent sound under the same operating conditions.
@Mister Coffee Hey, man! Well, it was standard procedure for the turbines I used to service. Though I don't recall it's being explained to me it does seem reasonable to want the fuel system fully pressurized before ignition, particularly for cold-starts where the air is more dense and the engine needs more fuel to compensate. Our Toyota keeps the fuel system pressurized at all times, so there's at least one automaker who thinks it important. I'll skim the Honda's owner's manual to check for a mention.
For the Fit I've only noticed an audible difference at the moment when the engine turned over during very cold weather (20-35°F). The engine would make an awful din, so I tried pressurizing first and found that to resolve the issue. The timing of the fault would have lead one to think of the starter, but it sounded like top-end noise. It was an unusual rasp. Being that I'd recently adjusted the valves and was/am confident that they were done carefully, I tried something else that affected cranking and was easy.
Regardless of whether letting the fuel line pressurize is advised in the manual, I'd be hard-pressed to think of an argument against it. We certainly want appropriate controlled pressure whenever the engine is running.
If the noise is only on startup, it's likely just the timing chain tensioner taking a second to provide tension. I'd completely ignore it and drive on.
A spun bearing will make noise always under every condition.
If the noise is only on startup, it's likely just the timing chain tensioner taking a second to provide tension. I'd completely ignore it and drive on.
A spun bearing will make noise always under every condition.
well the weird part it comes and goes tbh?
obviously during start up but when I drive it does the noise like spun bearing and sometimes the motor sounds cherry…