Broke a lug stud and what a pain. Had to take off the whole assembly and in the process damaged the castle nut and outer tie rod nut. Having trouble finding the size of the outer tie rod nut so I can pick one up from a Fastenal since the auto parts stores around here don’t carry it.
Request: size and thread of outer tie rod nut
size and thread of castle nut

 

You figure it out? I’m working on mine rn so I could get that for you.

 

Doing some googling I believe it's M10x1.25.

FWIW some aftermarket tie rod ends omit the castle nut and use a lock nut instead; if you're struggling to find a new castle nut that might be an option. Tie rods aren't really subject to very much rotation so a lock nut should be okay. While it is for aircraft AC 23.607 talks about using lock nuts on aircraft and while it states"Self-locking nuts alone should not be used in any system when movement of the joint may result in motion of the nut or bolt head relative to the surface against which it is hearing." though that's more in the context of things that are constantly spinning rather than a tie rod which moves a small amount.

 

Should’ve clarified what I asked…..my fault for not proofreading when I wasn’t heated. The castle nut I damaged was on the lower control arm for the ball joint. I ended up finding the part numbers and sizes for each of the nuts I needed, but dang if you don’t have to order them from Honda, as No auto parts store here in central florida carries them separately from their whole assembly (I.e. you gotta buy the ball joint assembly to get a new castle nut!). Tried the junk yard but it was as much to lay in the dirt and take them off as it was to order the damn part from Honda new.

Not a happy Honda Fit customer just to fix a a broken lug stud.

 

I don't want to come off presumptuous. I fumbled upon this tip on youtube a while back and have been appreciative since: remove and flip castle nuts, reinstall, then wack.
Another one that may serve someone: if threads on a stud get damaged from hammering and thusly prevent reinstallation, use a dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut out the damaged threading. Cut a slot right through the damage like you're making a thread-chaser/tap (inline with the stud/perpendicular to the threading) and there's a good chance a nut can be refitted
Can be a pain/fail when threading is damaged right where it starts or if the cutter is twitchy.. but always worth a shot.

If it's any consolation, oem ball-joints can last for like, 100k miles. Maybe more. They use some kinda magic rubber. Mine still looked great when I swapped LCA's for moog preemptively at (I think) 80k.

 

I'll preface my comments here to what oldyeller posted regarding replacing a castle nut with a lock nut. I'm not intending to criticize his comments. I would just be careful to ever replace a castle nut with any other type of nut for safety reasons- even if some manufacturers do so with their replacement parts. Castle nuts are designed to be used with cotter pins to prevent the castle nut from loosening up and backing off after installation. For example, on older rear wheel drive cars, the front spindle nuts are tightened to take the play out of the front bearings, when re-packing them with grease (basically zero torque), and then a cotter pin is inserted so the castle nut doesn't loosen up. Basically castle nuts are normally used with suspension components and obviously safety is of the utmost importance regarding these suspension parts not loosening up. Just my opinion.

 

A dealer quoted my son $500 recently to replace a snapped off front wheel stud but of course at 112,000 miles they included a new hub and bearing in that estimate. Another stud on the same wheel (right front) was 90% broken off but the tech doing the tire rotation stopped before snapping it completely off. He left it there so there were two studs holding the wheel on and watched my son drive away. That tech is a stand up guy.

It is indeed possible to replace a snapped off lug nut stud for about $5 a stud and not to remove the knuckle and hub. I did two studs the other day on my son's 2008 Sport. Remove the wheel, brake caliper, and rotor. Spray some penetrating oil on the hub where the stud exits and on the back side where it sits against the hub. Tap on the end of the stud a few times with a pretty good rap from a hammer like you are tapping it out towards the hub. Leave that to soak and go to a hardware store and get a 12 mm x 1.5 hardened steel nut (10.9 will do) and four or five 12 mm washers. That will set you back about $2. On the way home stop and get the studs you need. Get Honda ones if you must but Honda specs a lot of stuff like this from China these days. I went to Autozone and antied up about $3 a stud. If you know of a machine shop that turns brake rotors and does light shop work then head over there but it's not strictly necessary but it will make insertion of the new stud(s) quicker. Have the machine shop grind a flat spot on the round circumference of the base of the stud so that ground-off flat part slides right by the hub. If you are lucky or they know you they probably won't even charge you. It takes only a minute on a grinder to do two studs. If you have a bench grinder at home do it yourself. Back at the house rotate the hub so the broken stud is at the 3 o'clock position. Take the hammer and tap tap tap the splash guard directly behind the stud flat against the hub.The splash guard there is only about 1/4" high and it will flatten out and mold to the curved surface of the hub. Now start tapping on the end of the stud to drive it in towards the hub. It won't take a lot of effort as these things go. The studs aren't pressed in terrifically tight and moderate rapping will drive it out. Eventually the base of the stud will contact the hub. Up the force applied with the hammer a little and keep going. Right about here, depending on where the stud snapped off, the stud might come flush with the flange of the hub. Take a 1/4" or so pin punch and keep going. The stud will start to slide or move off of the side of the hub and look like it's jammed and you are screwed. No worries, you are almost done. Keep going until the stud is indeed jammed against the hub. Now take the 1/4" pin punch and center it on the shaft of the stud and give it a good rap at an angle like you are knocking it past the hub. If you get the angle right the stud drops out onto the floor with one rap. Now insert the new stud past the hub until the splined part fits up against the hub flange. You will see that grinding that flat spot on the base of the stud makes insertion easy. Slip the hardware store washers over the stud and thread the 12 mm nut on and use the nut as a puller to pull the new stud through the flange. With the wheel, caliper, and rotor off it then took about as long to type this as it took me to drive out the old stud and fit the new one. Well, maybe a little longer than typing this but not much. To finish up I took a small pair of pliers and worked the splash guard back to the way it was. Only you will know you bent it to get the stud past it.

Put anti-seize on the studs before replacing the wheel and you'll like never snap one off using recommended torque. Anti-seize all 16 studs.