Hey all,
I really want some help regarding Missfire count in each cylinder in my '09 fit sport AT,
whenever I try to log in and open the live data section it shows me an error message (Your ECU seems not supporting mode $06),
So anybody knows how to fix this or has a customer PID file I can add to the app files so I can read mode $06 codes like misfire count in cylinders 1,2..4 and injector balance rates??

any help would be much appreciated, (I cleaned my catalytic converter with some LiqueMoly Catalyc converter by spraying it into the throttle body and the car has been acting very weird since then but with not a single CEL)
Hesitating, sputtering here and there, and worse MPG by 1 to 2 mpg although used to get 26 city now it's 24 to 25, and sometimes the car loses about 50% of its power when going uphill
- Installed new spark plugs and coils less than 5,000 miles ago
- multiple tanks from different stations but no help
- cleaned the map sensor (which I didn't unplug when I was spraying the cleaning stuff because I'm an idiot ), and tried to run the car while the map was unplugged but it ran worse...
could it be another sensor I messed up or clogged an injector or it's a coil and plug problem?,,, I"M REALLY LOST and want to figure out what's the problem by monitoring all the readings possible...

Thanks in advance for your time to read this newsletter

 

You can see videos online its helps you.

 

I tried looking for any related info but it doesn't help without a code, and I need custom Fit/Jazz PID files to monitor things in my android phone

 

I'm not versed in hex. I remembered @JDFit bringing this up in this thread.

"Mode $06 data is information the OBD II system tracks and compiles on “noncontinuous” monitors. It is tabulated in hexadecimal code (a base 16 number system that uses digits 0 to 9 plus letters A through F), which is the computer language that the PCM uses to manage things. The “$” symbol means the data is in hex code, not ordinary decimal numbers.

The fact that Mode $06 data is in hex code means it has to be converted into familiar decimal values for us to understand it. This requires some math and conversion factors, or scan tool software that can do the translation for you. You also need a reference chart from the vehicle manufacturer that identifies what component or system test each line of code refers to, and what the acceptable range of values are for that particular test. Only then can you determine whether or not a particular Mode $06 test value is good, bad or borderline.

Hers a sample of what it looks like (on a BlueDriver ODB that I have)
https://www.bluedriver.com/sites/def...er-Mode6_0.pdf

For example, when I was having misfire on my cyl 3 it would show something like:
val 15 min 0 max 65535
So I was having 15 misfire when allowed values were 0 - 65535.
My scanner does the hex conversion"

You're looking for a way to make torque read $06.. In looking up torque pro hexadecimal I found this tundra thread.

It's more than an eye-full for me tonight, I'll try and find you a direct answer, but from just barely skimming it sounds like youd have an easier time just getting another scanner with the needed capability. i'll try n dig more tomorrow.

Bonus: your mpg before your problem is low. I have to go pretty hard and idle long to get my mpg down to 30.
​​​​​

 

Thanks for your very informative reply, anytime you're free
Regarding the low MPG actually, I think it's caused by two factors if I'm not mistaken, 1st is that my coil plugs are mismatched and the need of first-time valve adjustment (90k miles) 2nd thing due to my 100% city driving to-from my work which is about 10 miles trip with < 20 mph speed (stop and go and just idling),

 

:O get that valve adjustment! I do mine every 30k or less if the fit's not running great. which may be overkill. but once you get the hang of it the only pain is cleaning off the old silicone and letting the new goo cure. at 90k a new valve cover gasket should probably be in order, but they're good for a reuse according to the manual.

I'm really sorry to hear about your commute..
didnt find time today. eh, I'll try and do some reading tonight. This may wind up being beneficial for our trashy tacoma.

 

here's what I found so far. I havent tested it on the fit..
instructions for Mode 6 on Ford forumCall it mode 6 and you have better luck I guess. Blue driver still seems a safer route v. this work around. seems theres no reason why torque cant do this since its the same data it uses for the pass/fail emissions test that comes preloaded for live data

 

Did you try replacing maf sensor?
sounds like a bad air fuel reading to me and it makes sense of you hosed the maf with solvent based cleaner.
you might see the car work great under full throttle when it’s reading static tables but have issues under part throttle when it’s trying to meter the air with bad sensor and failing to get afr right.

 

Thanks, Pyts, I tried today to replicate what the Ford guys did but had no luck getting info it gave me a (No response) message after sending 0653 raw OBD command...

 

but the MAF sensor was safely removed (I removed the whole air box to access the throttle body (which has the MAF attached on the air filter box) when I did this stupid cleaning

procedure" target="_blank">procedure

I really advise you all NOT TO DO IT

 

I suspect that the code is manufacturer specific then.
your easiest route may be to figure out bluedriver since we already have a member that pulled mode 6 data with it.. I freakin hate shopping for scanners, man.

what prompted your using a cat cleaner?
😂 it was just a few months back that i went ahead and punched clear a downstream (no o2's after it) oe cat for a friend.
Got to experience just how bad a cat could be. was causing the engine to overheat, preventing shifting and acceleration, just plain wreckin everything.. but there were huge leaks at the headers that caused poppin', blew out a bunch of material from the upstream cats and you could guess.. it all wound up in the downstream one.

 

-Yea, it must be coded for non-imports only,
- I was doing it out of preventive maintenance and didn't know it would cost me a lot of headaches...
Anyway, I ordered a new set of HITACHI coils and a set of IZFR6k-13's to install them since the coils are mismatched,
Hopefully, it'll fix the problem after I install them since I can smell gas on the dipstick, meaning that there's no ignition!
Finger's crossed...

 

Engine additives sure can be tricky.. It went in the intake too, so you've got a lot of variables. Hey, when you take stuff apart, why not try inspecting the injectors' nozzles? if you've got gassy smellin' oil, maybe give your pcv valve a check too? I hope your converters are alright.. If none of the above works, you could try the treeshade trick for cleaning converters - some kinda lacquer thinner in the gas tank. or you could pull the upstream o2 sensor and reset the battery - allows exhaust to cheat its way around the cat til the ecm figures out whats going on.. may require some thoughtfully placed aluminum foil to avoid scorchin' stuff.. that's uh, if you don't have an accurate heat readin' laser/if its results raise an eyebrow.

* I've never tried the lacquer thinner trick as I was far too concerned about something going wrong. Tried the o2 sensor trick though ~ my own half-baked idea. that worked.

 

Update:
- Installed a set of HITACHI's IGC0073 coils and a set of IZFR6K13's plugs and the tricky misfiring was solved entirely, coil #4 was shot, it turned out to be leaking the spark to the engine and the upper boot had a good wide crack in it, and the reason for that I think is the exhaust excessive heat due the 3000RPM speed when throttle/cat cleaning was done stupidly in my garage with no airflow, or maybe it was the end of its life.
- Did a Valve clearance adjustment and It fixed the ticking noise slightly and improved My MPG's a bit (my Intake valves were very loose).

Problem solved, now of course, the aftermath of driving with a dead coil for almost 1 month: (STILL WONDERING WHY IN THE WORLD ECU DIDN'T SHOW A MISFIRECODE)
anyway with the spark not fired probably the fuel mixture will not fire or it will ignite later from heat, the fuel would seep into the cylinder walls and through the rings causing the oil to wash away with fuel instead therefor shaving off my cylinder wall to develop (I hope not) A Piston Slap, to be noticeable sound when the engine is cold I can hear it in the range of 2000-3000 rpm then when the engine warms up the noise go away...
Is there any concerns should I have about the problem or should I drive the car and ENJOY it finally ?!

 

You can do a compression test if you're worried about a specific cylinder being goofed. Then there's that trick of adding like a teaspoon* of oil through each of the plug holes to see if it normalizes compression between cylinders. This should tell yuh whether you have ring problems and provide a rough understanding of leak severity. If you don't plan on doing rings and aren't too worried, you can simply check for oil consumption at a set interval, starting with daily dipstick checks and stretching out over longer periods (provided you don't have significant oil leaks or a clogged pcv valve causing crank pressure to blow a fair bit of oil into your throttle body.**)
Sorry you went through all this. Your coil must have avoided failing either in a detectable way or for a long enough period to trigger the CEL. If you want to delve deeper and attempt to avoid recurrence of faults like this in the future, I was recently informed of means to read mode 6 hexadecimal codes (raw sensor data). Select scanners boast capability of providing you with said data, either in its raw format requiring conversion or potentially pre-converted. A thing like that may have been able to clue you in sooner to the nature of your fault. I've however had no personal experience with said scanners yet. Go have fun! You earned it.


*I'm sure you could find better recommendations for the quantity of oil to add, but the idea as I understand it is to use no more than necessary to avoid flooding the cyl with oil should the rings turn out to be fine.

** You can do the pinch test on the pcv hose just behind the valve to rough test functionality of your pcv valve and you can also check your throttle body at a set interval to determine if it's amassing a concerning amount of gobbledegook.

 

thanks, Pyts!
I was just wondering if the piston slap is ok to live with, and I surfed the forms to find people have faced it even with 30k miles on the engine,
I'll keep checking for the oil from time to time, for now, there's no consumption