@Honda2009Mt I just received my new belt and tensioner assembly in the mail today. Don't know when I will install them.

 

Alright I got my new belt tensioner and crap I had to recharge my battery.

ok finally got the battery charged and went to start the car and Damm it still turns off?

I recorded a squeal noise it might be coming from the crankshaft pulley but Damm why is the car still turning off?

all this because I decided to replace the belt? Is the belt just to tight? I’m confused.

ill try recording more but overall it seems like the engine is seized.

i might just have to pay a mechanic at this point.

 

I checked the crankshaft pulley it feels sturdy not loose but it seems the noise is coming from there. At this point I’m not a mechanic but I really want to get my car up and running.

anybody have issues with their crank pulley?

 

Crank pulley/harmonic balancer. I've messed with them but haven't yet had an issue with one -- it's just a necessity to remove it when doing timing. If you're sure that's where your noise is coming from, check your oil I guess. It's on the crankshaft. The same one that your piston rods ride on. I'd sooner get some degreaser in a spray bottle. Simple green pro xd is my go-to (mixed 3:1 with water being the 3), but whatever degreaser you have on hand that's plastic/rubber safe may do. Just spray the belt as the car idles, all over (where you can). spray the heck out of it. see if that squeak goes away. see if its caused by grime on a pulley or residue on the belt.

Apologies if I'm off base/missing a step. I didnt read everything

 

Well the car actually turns off, the greasing will not help at this moment, the pulley alone will make a squeal without the belt. That’s what I’m getting at, I don’t know if the pulley needs to be replaced but it stalls the engine.

replacing the pulley might help but what else can possibly go wrong?

 

There's something significant here that's being overlooked. The other forum members 👌 have addressed every potential issue with the serpentine belt in their posts. I'd suggest that you get a professional inspection at this point.

If that's not an option, then how did the car run before all this happened? Did the no-start condition begin immediately after you replaced the serpentine belt? Were there any noises/squeals before work was done?

 

It all started with misfires so I tried my best to replace coils and spark plugs but then I went ahead and cleaned the manifold and replace the belt, and this is what happened when my car did not want to start anymore.

the car will crank but then dies

 

Something in the above went wrong. I assume you did the coils and spark plugs in one go, then you started the car to test it. And was the fault unchanged or worse? Then you cleaned the manifold -- what do you mean by that? The air filter for the engine's intake, or something else? and did you re-check then before doing the serpentine belt?

 

I suspect there's a chance you left a vacuum hose disconnected after your spark plug and coil job.. that would be the easiest way to go from a misfire to a car that dies.. If I'm correct about when the dying started, remove the plastic intake plenum from atop the engine and reinstall it, paying close attention to every hose connection. Even the one in the back, by the firewall/cab. Or whatever. I can't remember how many connections there are.

 

Can a manifold gasket make a squeal noise?

does air really bypass through there?

 

So I removed the intake and the car stays on? What could possibly be the culprit to this small engine?

I really want to see the engine running any help here guys?

im surprised no one has had issues with their MAF sensor or electrical harness?

 

Only folks with aftermarket air intakes have had issues (to my knowledge). It's typically a greasy MAF, the result of an over or improperly oiled filter, or wrong diameter intake piping around the maf.
If you unplug the maf and the car runs fine, it's the maf. if the maf is new and known good, then something is being done to foul the maf. unless someone has messed with the wiring.

There could be exceptions. with the maf disconnected, the computer utilizes fixed AFRs/Lambda rather than using live data. If that works, it should indicate that intake operations and engine function are relatively sound, But something is fucking with the sensor.

 

Only had a problem when I was dumb and didn't plug it back in after changing my air filter. Instant check engine light! Had to clear that with a code reader.